Anyone else get kinda turned off by the sort of cutesy EHX look? I'm really starting to prefer the stately, unadorned Boss.

Like a 65ms delay; barely long enough to be noticeable. Although it might cause some weird comb-filtering at lower settings.

Apparently the spread knob controls a short built-in delay. I don't know to what purpose.

I'd say it's in between the two, leaning closer to ibanez territory. Ah, bugger. I want a baseball bat! Do you like 58' gibson necks? i played a 59 in a store and thought it seemed ridiculously thick, i cant even imagine what it's going to be like when i get back home and play my 58 again. Yep! My ...

mellowlogic wrote:I'd say it's in between the two, leaning closer to ibanez territory.

Ah, bugger. I want a baseball bat!

I just went through the builder and made a neck-through SC with koa top, tung-oil finish, Wilkenson trem, and stainless jumbo frets for under $1k. HLYSHT. I gotta start saving my pennies over here. What's the neck shape like? Is it thin like an Ibanez, more of a Fender shape, or something in between?

Douglas is without any doubt at all the goofiest fucking name for a guitar brand ever. I've been holding out for the release of a cheap MIC brand of resonator guitars called 'Harvey' or 'Everett'. It reminds me of A Hard Day's Night when they ask George what his hairstyle is called and he replies &...

I wonder if the 1.75" neck is real or a misprint. The idea of a JM with HBs and a proper wide neck is very appealing to me. Especially at $150.

I think so. My whole fingerstyle playing and phrasing is based around what sounds best on my Dano. On a strat, I move everything up the neck and strum more.

Douglas Corvis:
http://www.rondomusic.com/CORVIS625humbk.html
http://www.rondomusic.com/CORVIS627bkhum.html

Take your time when cutting down the saddle to compensate for the piezo height. Make sure you get the bottom perfectly flat. Also check that the slot the saddle sits in is flat and smooth - otherwise you can have volume balance issues. Make paper or card templates for everything. Use layers of paint...

Was it ever answered as to why you want an old guitar? Do they offer some advantage over a current one? Because I think of vintage as the best of a particular type. So vintage Fenders and Gibsons are from the 50s/early-60s. A vintage Danelectro is from the late 50s, but not the early 50s. A vintage ...

An old MIA Peavey Foundation or Fury. You can find them around here for under $200 pretty regularly and they're quite good.

I wouldn't be surprised if it's a line of polyphonic instrument simulators. At this point I'm not sure what else they could do.

Pens wrote:"First amps" today are actually pretty decent.

They are. All the Orange Crushes, for example. And for $100 you can get a Roland Cube or Line 6 that'll be a pretty good practice amp for a long time.

My first amp was one of the first MIM Fender 15Rs. One of those with tons of hiss and the volume knob that reaches maximum at 2 and only gets more fizzy and farty from there on up. So the same problems most new Fender SS amps have, actually.

h8mtv wrote:Gibson marauder.

No.

I visited Guitar Center Hollywood this past weekend and the best vintage guitar in the store was a Squier Classic Vibe.

My first was a n old Yamaha FG-45 with a 19" scale that my mom had setup with nylon strings to spare my fingers. I still have the guitar and the first set of strings coiled up in the case. I started playing at 8 and the FG's 1.5" neck was too wide for me. My first electric was a Squier sta...

westtexasred wrote:Here is another webpage about Dylan's guitars (Link)

I think Dylan traded his H-44 Stratotone for the Martin

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It's a '56 Silvertone 1416 or whatever their equilvelant to the Danelectro U-1 was.