I’m likely to buying a dirt cheap home made 1x15 guitar cab for 20 quid this weekend. It’s cheap enough to sate my curiosity and to have a play with some new kit for the sheer fuck of it.
The seller tells me it will be a little quieter than the Orange 1x12 I’ll be running it in tandem with. Is that down to the wattage of the speaker? The 1x15 is 50 watts/16ohms and my orange is 100watts/16ohms. Both to run from my Blackstar HT5 head. Could I swap out the speaker for a 100 watt 15inch and balance the volumes? Is that even how it works?
Here’s what I’m looking at…repairs to the speaker cone but working fine, hand made with speaker cable included… I might teach myself to TOLEX that mother in green or purple to clash nicely with the orange, or get WWRRSS to paint it with creatures from his imagination:
No, the watts rating is what it will handle and doesn't directly affect sensitivity. Sensitivity (i.e. sound pressure level, SPL, measured in dB per watt or millwatt) is down to the design of the magnetic gap, the type of magnetic material used (e.g. alnico vs. ceramic), driven mass, the compliance (flexibility) of the cone mounting, no. of turns on the voice coil and stuff like that - and it's generally measured in free air/infinite baffle rather than in a cab. Generally there's a bit of a trade-off between sensitivity and other factors.
Then you put the speaker in a cab and everything changes - open back cabs are often more efficient in terms of db/watt than closed cabs, but flatness of the frequency response curve is impoved by a closed or tuned port cab
Nick beat me to it but he put it more eloquently, informatively and useful than my half arsed one liner I find speakers/cabs a whole minefield of variables
plopswagon wrote:I like teles and strats because they're made out of guitar.
robroe wrote:I dont need a capo. I have the other chords in my tonefingers
NickS wrote:No, the watts rating is what it will handle and doesn't directly affect sensitivity. Sensitivity (i.e. sound pressure level, SPL, measured in dB per watt or millwatt) is down to the design of the magnetic gap, the type of magnetic material used (e.g. alnico vs. ceramic), driven mass, the compliance (flexibility) of the cone mounting, no. of turns on the voice coil and stuff like that - and it's generally measured in free air/infinite baffle rather than in a cab. Generally there's a bit of a trade-off between sensitivity and other factors.
Then you put the speaker in a cab and everything changes - open back cabs are often more efficient in terms of db/watt than closed cabs, but flatness of the frequency response curve is impoved by a closed or tuned port cab
This is the most terrifying thing anyone has ever said to me!
But I think I grok what you mean
iCEByTes wrote:5 Most Jizz face maker Solo�s , classic Rock music i ever listened.
iCEByTes wrote:Blunt a joint , Take the Touch , Listen this.
Presumably most 15 inch speakers have the same screw alignments if I want to swap it out? If I do can anyone recommend decent but not expensive 15 inchers that will work well for guitar and bass? I might be getting a bronco bass soon and will just run it through the same set up. I thought the 15inch might be good for that.
iCEByTes wrote:5 Most Jizz face maker Solo�s , classic Rock music i ever listened.
iCEByTes wrote:Blunt a joint , Take the Touch , Listen this.
I find speakers/cabs a whole minefield of variables
