Lets talk strat trems scaliens.

Rhysyrhys · Post by **Rhysyrhys** » Thu May 31, 2012 9:52 pm

I have a yamaha pacifica that I adore and is going to get a bit of restoration love as soon as I can get round to it. Nothing too spesh, just a few new pickups, pots pickguard and straplocks.

At the same time, it occurred to me that I have had the trem blocked ever since I threw the guitar against the wall mid gig (rawk and fucking roll, I know...) with the whammy bar screw in. Most of the whammy bar apart from the thread snapped off and I've had to keep it blocked since because theres no point not blocking it off.

My question: would I have to replace the whole kaboodle to get the trem back working or just the block? I'm guessing it would just be the block right? I know it would just take me to have a quick look, but I'm a few hundred miles away at the moment looking after the old dear, as she's just had a hip replacement.

George · Post by **George** » Thu May 31, 2012 9:57 pm

Just the block I would wager. However, finding one that lines up with the bridge plate in all the right ways including trem arm hole could be dicey unless you know of one that drops in. Fender/Squier ones are varied enough with different trem arm threads as well but with whole bridge assemblies being so cheap from GFS I'd probably just do that using the spacing between body screws as a guide.

cur · Post by **cur** » Thu May 31, 2012 10:07 pm

You are saying that the bar snapped off at the screw in part? Use a screw extractor and get the piece out.

Ankhanu · Post by **Ankhanu** » Thu May 31, 2012 10:09 pm

cur wrote:You are saying that the bar snapped off at the screw in part? Use a screw extractor and get the piece out.

+1

Unless, of course, you just want an excuse for an upgrade

Rhysyrhys · Post by **Rhysyrhys** » Thu May 31, 2012 10:11 pm

George wrote:Just the block I would wager. However, finding one that lines up with the bridge plate in all the right ways including trem arm hole could be dicey unless you know of one that drops in. Fender/Squier ones are varied enough with different trem arm threads as well but with whole bridge assemblies being so cheap from GFS I'd probably just do that using the spacing between body screws as a guide.

Cheers man, I hadn't even thought about that. I'm guessing that this is a silly ass question but I'm guessing not all assemblies are born equal, I'm looking for string spacing as my measure of whether it will be right or not oui?

ekwatts · Post by **ekwatts** » Thu May 31, 2012 10:24 pm

It seems that most guitar parts over the last decade have become pretty standardised so swaps are now pretty easy. But trem blocks might be a bit harder to match up exactly... then again, I'm sure it would only be by a few millimetres, and the actual bridge plate could potentially tolerate that as it would necessarily have to be a few mm wider than the screw hole underneath. Maybe?

I'd say get yourself a fancy new whizzbang bridge anyway, for kicks. Why not? It's nice to upgrade.

George · Post by **George** » Fri Jun 01, 2012 6:26 am

Rhysyrhys wrote:
George wrote:Just the block I would wager. However, finding one that lines up with the bridge plate in all the right ways including trem arm hole could be dicey unless you know of one that drops in. Fender/Squier ones are varied enough with different trem arm threads as well but with whole bridge assemblies being so cheap from GFS I'd probably just do that using the spacing between body screws as a guide.
Cheers man, I hadn't even thought about that. I'm guessing that this is a silly ass question but I'm guessing not all assemblies are born equal, I'm looking for string spacing as my measure of whether it will be right or not oui?

Yeah, there are a few differences to consider if you are just buying the block. But for a whole assembly if the 6 holes that make contact with wood line up correctly with the body you'll be fine (this will be the same as the string spacing). You can keep your original saddles as well if you prefer the feel of them over the rolled gfs set afterall.

This thread says they had success matching just the 10.5mm import block to the original bridge plate of a 112 - problem was the trem hole was in the wrong place:

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/arc ... 66802.html

Therefore the whole import spaced assembly should drop in nicely as string spacing is right, and trem arm hole will be matched up as standard.

onedaycloser · Post by **onedaycloser** » Fri Jun 01, 2012 11:23 pm

Take the block off of the base plate first. There may be enough of the old bar there to get vice grips to clamp and unscrew it out.

Gabriel · Post by **Gabriel** » Sat Jun 02, 2012 7:08 am

If it were my guitar I'd get myself this:

http://www.guitarfetish.com/105mm-Chrom ... _1158.html

And then these:

http://www.guitarfetish.com/Upgrade-Sta ... p_773.html

George · Post by **George** » Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:36 am

I've tried a brass block in two separate strats and they're awful in my experience. They sound duller and give out less sustain and resonance than the stock zinc block - totally sucked the life out of them. Steel all the way.

willlin · Post by **willlin** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:49 pm

I'm surprised by that actually. Dave swapped out the old MIM trem block on my strat for the GFS brass block. Admittedly, I haven't tried it out back to back with a steel block, but I'm pleased with how it sounds. I'd definately recommend the GFS trem kit, and the steel blok saddles too.