Should I jump on this CIJ Mustang?

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jcb3030
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Should I jump on this CIJ Mustang?

Post by jcb3030 »

Is this a screaming deal or am I missing something?

I've got a chance to buy a Mustang RI with hard case for $450, shipped. I have not played it, it would be shipped from a nearby state.

It looks to be a '65 model. It is a stock CIJ. Serial is R073284, which I think makes it a 2004-2005 model.

Does anyone how the necks are on the 2004-5 years? I think they are closer to "C" and fatter than the earlier RI years.

Let me know what you think. I need to decide on this TODAY!! Thanks.

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weeping_moon
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Re: Should I jump on this CIJ Mustang?

Post by weeping_moon »

Yep do it! With hardcase and all! Thats a great find!

Ohh wait..... Are the neck straight, and the vol plastic button is missing. How about the electronics inside the guitar?
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othomas2
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Post by othomas2 »

Non of that ^^ really matter IMO as they can be easily resolved.

If you like it... it sounds like a good deal.
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HNB
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Post by HNB »

Dew eeet!!
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Post by jcb3030 »

Does any know what the necks are like on the 2004-5? Thanks!
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Post by weeping_moon »

othomas2 wrote:Non of that ^^ really matter IMO as they can be easily resolved.

If you like it... it sounds like a good deal.
what do you mean? of course the neck has to be straight otherwise it will not go in-tune..

any better (sharper) pictures of the guitar?
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Post by weeping_moon »

jcb3030 wrote:Does any know what the necks are like on the 2004-5? Thanks!
the neck look exactly like mine. yeah its a great neck!
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Post by stewart »

you'd have to be trying extra hard to fuck up a neck of a guitar that's a few years old, especially a japanese fender.

do it.
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jcb3030
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Post by jcb3030 »

I am trying to get better pics today.

My question about the neck was about what shape/width it is in the 2004-5 model years. I know the earlier years had a "B" neck which is too thin for me. But I think the 2004-5 necks were thicker "C" style necks?
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Post by Concretebadger »

I would.

CIJ '65 RI necks are really nice - 7.25" radius and a comfortably shallow profile - and I'm spending more than that on getting mine built. That's a great piece of kit for the money you have there.
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othomas2
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Post by othomas2 »

weeping_moon wrote:
othomas2 wrote:Non of that ^^ really matter IMO as they can be easily resolved.

If you like it... it sounds like a good deal.
what do you mean? of course the neck has to be straight otherwise it will not go in-tune..

any better (sharper) pictures of the guitar?
There's a thing called a truss rod, and a neck should never be dead straight !!! You need some relief in the neck to avoid fret buzz, and tuning shouldn't really be affected either ... as that's down to intonation at the bridge end.

If it's twisted that's another matter...
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Post by jcb3030 »

So I'm going to buy it. Wish me luck.

I'm rolling the dice on a guitar I've never seen/played from someone I've never met...
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Post by mkt3000 »

jcb3030 wrote:So I'm going to buy it. Wish me luck.

I'm rolling the dice on a guitar I've never seen/played from someone I've never met...
Sounds like most online purchases ;)

And if it ends up being a dog, you should be able to recoup the money by parting it out.
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jcb3030
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Post by jcb3030 »

I've never done an online sale not through ebay. So I'm hoping I even receive it after I pay by paypal. Fingers crossed.

I'll post some pics when I receive it (if I receive it).
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speedfish
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Post by speedfish »

Yes!


edit: Glad to see you purchased it.
Last edited by speedfish on Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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speedfish
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Post by speedfish »

[There's a thing called a truss rod, and a neck should never be dead straight !!! You need some relief in the neck to avoid fret buzz, and tuning shouldn't really be affected either ... as that's down to intonation at the bridge end.


I disagree. Neck relief is a matter of preference. I prefer a flat "dead straight" neck vs one with relief in the middle. A flat neck will intonate better than one with relief in the middle and plays faster as well. As long as the neck isn't twisted and you have no proud frets you shouldn't have any buzzing with a flat neck. A fret dressing or leveling may be necessary if you are experiencing buzzing with a flat neck. However, buzzing can also occur at the nut due to the grooves being cut to deep. This can be fixed by shimming or replacing the nut. Fender recommends and sets up their guitars with relief before shipping but it's just not my cup of tea.

Cheers!
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Post by othomas2 »

You'll minimise a lot of potential buzzing by having even a tiny bit of relief... which is what I do with mine, which is recommended by just about everyone.

I've set up 100s of guitars and generally you need the relief... I don't think modern manufacturers pay enough attention to frets, and really do requite a specialist fret dress.

Try setting a 7.5" radius neck dead straight, setting the action relatively low and fully bending a note on the G,B,E above the 12th fret. It'll choke out for sure.

it really depends on the player... ones mans buzz vs another mans buzz, could be worlds apart... it is subjective, and again what is audible through an amp. Generally speaking I think you need some relief.
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speedfish
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Post by speedfish »

othomas2 wrote:You'll minimise a lot of potential buzzing by having even a tiny bit of relief... which is what I do with mine, which is recommended by just about everyone.

I've set up 100s of guitars and generally you need the relief... I don't think modern manufacturers pay enough attention to frets, and really do requite a specialist fret dress.

Try setting a 7.5" radius neck dead straight, setting the action relatively low and fully bending a note on the G,B,E above the 12th fret. It'll choke out for sure.

it really depends on the player... ones mans buzz vs another mans buzz, could be worlds apart... it is subjective, and again what is audible through an amp. Generally speaking I think you need some relief.

I agree with all the above. A tiny bit of relief does simplify setting up a guitar and can minimize or prevent buzz, but if you have the time and the right tools isn't necessary. I would imagine that most players that come into your shop wouldn't care to spend the money that it would require of your time to set up their neck as I have described. A "custom shop setup" goes above and beyond what is required of a "standard setup". Most players can't tell or don't know the difference anyway. Haven't experienced what you describe with the 7.25" radius, but had a similar problem with a 9.5" radius neck recently that I straightened, I remedied it by placing a shim just behind the two top neck screws.

Cheers!
Disciple of Pain

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