Jaguar Bridge Replacements?

Freddy V-C · Post by **Freddy V-C** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:58 pm

This question has probably been answered hundreds of times before, but which is the best bridge to replace a standard Jaguar bridge? The bridge on my VM Jaguar rattles ALL THE TIME. I'm constantly tweaking the setup to try and fix the problem, and it goes away for about 5 minutes and then comes back again. On a couple of occasions it has rattled so much that the screws have started to shake themselves out, meaning that I've had to get out an allen key mid-gig and screw them back in. Mustang bridges seem to be the most common replacement, but tune-o-matic bridges look a bit more stable to me, and in some cases seem to be cheaper (on allparts you can buy a Korean 'tunematic' bridge for Â£11).

My other question is, what do I need to look out for in terms of specs when buying a replacement bridge? I'm guessing I need to take into account neck radius, width etc... but allparts doesn't seem to have that kind of information.

Somebody mentioned to me a while ago that I should try painting on a layer of clear nail polish. I tried this and it didn't seem to work.

It's really frustrating because in every other respect my Jaguar has been pretty much the perfect guitar since I bought it. FUCK YOU JAGUAR BRIDGE. SHORTSCALE PLS HALP.

Gabriel · Post by **Gabriel** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 11:09 pm

http://www.shortscale.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45554

The Wilkinson roller gets a lot of love. If its good enough for Taylor on their T3 I'd definitely consider it.

cobascis · Post by **cobascis** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 11:16 pm

I would say mustang but it is a 7.25/9.5 radius mismatch, meaning you won't be able to set it up perfectly. Mike and others have done this on the VM jags but I'm not sure I would.

so1om · Post by **so1om** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 3:48 am

where did you put the nail polish? because that essentially GLUES the screws in place.

ANY Jazz/jag/stang/Bigsby tele bridge... in fact most bridges with set screw pairs need to be set up properly so they don't walk out. Bu tht emain focus is that of Jazz/jag/stang/Bigsby tele bridge...

so something tells me it's not set up correctly. Esp if you put on nail polish.

can you post pics?

right here in the middle of this thread is the info about adjusting the bridge. maybe this will help your situation if you haven't tried these before:

http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/vie ... start=1695

Also, make sure for each saddle that all of the height screws are the same height, if one is sitting up a little more then that is a recipe for buzz. If one is loose, then they aren't the same height.

dren68 · Post by **dren68** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 5:11 pm

You could try the modified Mustang bridge from Warmoth. It would work with the 9.5 radius.

LINK

Freddy V-C · Post by **Freddy V-C** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 5:19 pm

I painted a layer of nail polish all along the top of the saddles. It seems to have stopped the screws from rattling so much that they pop out, but they are still rattling.

I went into my local shop today to ask about Mustang bridges. They've said they'll ring their Fender dealery person on Monday to see how much they can order one in for. I know I could just get one from allparts, but the guys in that shop are really helpful and I like to support local business. Plus, I'm pretty sure they'll install it for free,

lorez · Post by **lorez** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:32 pm

Rattly jag bridges were solved for me by upping my string gauges and therefore string tension.

Freddy V-C · Post by **Freddy V-C** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:36 pm

Hmm :\ I'm already using 11s with a wound G, but perhaps I could move up another gauge...

lorez · Post by **lorez** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:59 pm

Freddy V-C wrote:Hmm :\ I'm already using 11s with a wound G, but perhaps I could move up another gauge...

Sorry freddy, that gaugel was normally enough for me. Are you sure it's the screws/saddles? I've found lubricating everything can help at times, or the old plumbers tape trick on the posts.

Freddy V-C · Post by **Freddy V-C** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 11:03 pm

I've tried tape as well. I think I'm just a really heavy-handed player, there's no getting around it. Hopefully a different bridge will help.

so1om · Post by **so1om** » Sun Oct 28, 2012 1:54 am

you did it incorrectly. You do not put anything on the saddles.

you set the bridge height with the 2 main screws, set the height & curve you want for the strings with the small set screws of each saddle. double check overall height, play it, everything cool, right?

All set?

starting with, say.. the low E saddle. remove one set screw, put nail polish or blue or purple loctite or white glue ON THE THREADS.

with the stuff still wet, replace it to the saddle to the proper height.

remove the saddle's other screw. Put the stuff ON THE THREADS..

replace, lather rinse repeat with all 12 set screws. you can do this to the 2 bridge post screws too.

brushing it all over the saddles will do nothing.

having one saddle's screw at a different height than the other is wrong too. they should be set at the same height.

Post by **Mike** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 12:09 pm

If you shim the neck the added tension might help.

I'm in the Mustang bridge on Jaguar camp. Works flawlessly on my old Jaguar as it's a radius match - you can feel some oddness if you're looking for it on the VM as it's 9.5" vs 7.25" bridge but I think this would be easy to shim out with some saddle shims if you wanted to - doesn't bother me personally.

SKC Willie · Post by **SKC Willie** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:03 pm

a buzz stop should help.

also, when I have this problem, it doesn't shake the screws out, the problem is one of those screws is loose and you're not tightening it enough to keep pressure on it. That said, about once a week they would start buzzing. The easiest solution is locktite in the threads. Like before take the screw out, throw some locktite in there and it should keep them from coming loose. Without having to change the bridge, a buzz stop isn't a bad option. A tune-o-matic may be incorrect bridge spacing which would require plugging the holes for the bridge and redrilling. Then there is the warmoth bridge OR the blacktop jazzmaster bridge but I'm not sure those totally solve it because they have adjustment screws just like the jag bridge.

George · Post by **George** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:13 pm

Gabriel wrote:http://www.shortscale.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45554

Do this.

kpstafford73 · Post by **kpstafford73** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:39 pm

I've heard good things about the Mastery bridges for Jags and Jazzmasters. They're on the pricey side. Anyone here have any experience with them?

gusman2x · Post by **gusman2x** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:18 pm

Sorry man, but somebody's going to suggest that you get banned.

I heard they're good though, but seems like a lot of money to spend if there are alternatives.

George · Post by **George** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:21 pm

kpstafford73 wrote:I've heard good things about the Mastery bridges for Jags and Jazzmasters. They're on the pricey side. Anyone here have any experience with them?

Only one Scaler has ever been allowed to own a Mastery bridge, and he is still on double secret probation for it.

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Dave · Post by **Dave** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:47 pm

Separate bridge and trem? Roller. Wilkinson roller with radius shims. Or 1960's Yamaha SG2 bridge which is the perfect Jag/Jazz bridge, but rare.

kpstafford73 · Post by **kpstafford73** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:35 pm

gusman2x wrote:Sorry man, but somebody's going to suggest that you get banned.

I heard they're good though, but seems like a lot of money to spend if there are alternatives.

Banned? Who, me? What for?

NickS · Post by **NickS** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:36 pm

kpstafford73 wrote:Banned? Who, me? What for?

For the crime of Mastery!