benecol wrote:Although in seriousness, how a tele is more versatile is beyond me…
I agree.
To me the Tele is quite limited but it does what it does very well. I'd say a Jag isn't far from a Strat in terms of versatility.
paul_ wrote:To this day that was the nicest looking burst I ever saw on a Jag (and I prefer Jags in sunburst). If memory serves there wasn't much red in it, right?
Cheers Paul. Yes, there was none in it at all. The black guard seemed to emphasize it as well.
Plugged it in to my mustang II on the twin setting and reverb. Instant clean hard-on
I'm gonna take it again next week un-modded and tweak my amp settings and see what happens. Don't wanna go the humbuxker route just yet. What is a buzz stop? Jag-noob question
Fender Classic Player 60’s Stratocaster>East Coast T1 Tele>
Epiphone Les Paul SL>Ovation 12 String acoustic>Peavey Strat DIY Relic
Marshall Origin 20H>James’s old purple 2x10
Marshall MG10 Combo
It's an after market part that is sold by Allparts. As you can see, this serves the purpose of increasing the break angle of the strings over the bridge.
It helps in that it mitigates string pop-out issues with the standard unit, reduces the plinky third bridge effect and is said (though I've never really noticed a difference) to increase overall sustain.
Essentially, it does what the closer trem placement does on the CP line.
Installing one of these and a more reliable bridge are the only mods I needed on mine to make it work the way I wanted it to.
Last edited by laterallateral on Fri Sep 19, 2014 3:05 pm; edited 115,726 times in total
Progrockabuse wrote:So far I've not popped any strings out the saddles...
...remains the case Rob, you don't need to take evasive action, and you especially don't need a buzzstop. No need to fix a problem that isn't there. Also, having seen how you play (ie. properly, fluidly and very, very well) I don't think your technique is at all heavy-handed enough to worry about this.
so, after a weeks ownership i can safely say that i'm quite pleased with it. it looks the fucking tits!
the neck is amazing, very different to my strat but in a good way. i seem to be able to glide across the fretboard, fast runs are so easy.
not 100% on the pickups yet. the neck pickup is flawless, bridge pickup is quite harsh/nasal in tone. have to tame it a lot with the tone pot. not sure wether to swap just the bridge pickup or get a nice set on the cheap.
switching still baffles me. i twig that i have a switch for each pickup and the third is the low cut, though i cant tell if its on or off. the rhythm circuit is set for doog/woman tones.
the bridge is ok for now, i find it's not too stable at tuning. might ask fran nicely if he can work his mojo on it. would try a tune o matic, but not sure how to fit it.
not using the trem, so am i best to tighten the screw to lock it? would that make it more stable.
Fender Classic Player 60’s Stratocaster>East Coast T1 Tele>
Epiphone Les Paul SL>Ovation 12 String acoustic>Peavey Strat DIY Relic
Marshall Origin 20H>James’s old purple 2x10
Marshall MG10 Combo
Progrockabuse wrote:the bridge is ok for now, i find it's not too stable at tuning. might ask fran nicely if he can work his mojo on it. would try a tune o matic, but not sure how to fit it.
Get an Epiphone type one. Tape the posts, big shim in the neck and it should be fine. I tried one on my Jaguar for a while but eventually got bored of it.
If you can afford it though get a Staytrem bridge. Seems the best although pricey solution.
theshadowofseattle wrote:less being WOKE
more being STOKED
if you tighten the trem screw all the way til the mechanism has no more upward travel then yeah, it will be more stable technically and have a bit more resistance, but i don't think i've ever had a single stability issue due to the trem when there's no arm in it. most of the problems can be attributed to the floating bridge, which when set up right, shouldn't be a problem either. besides, trem locks only help stop upward travel, which correct me if i'm wrong, isn't going to help unless you break a string, which will fuck everything else up because of neck tension anyway.
as for pickup, it depends what you want out of the bridge. if you want normal output then the antiquities would be a good shout, otherwise the quarter pounder or SJAG2 would be a good hot version. the routs and pickup casing, and pickguard routs preclude the vast majority of pickup options.
as for the bridge i think all signs are pointing toward staytrem. i really question how well people were really able to drop in their tune o matics. even with a 5 pence piece shim (dangerous), i couldn't get anything approaching acceptable action
i'd just be cautious about the radius mismatch with a mustang bridge being 7.25" and the jag neck being 9.5"
as for the pickup, the sjag2 output is something bonkers like 11k, and the sjag3 is 15k. mind you, with the 1 meg pots you still get plenty of spank. i'll wait for more experienced people to weigh in though. mike seems to get nice sounds out of the antiquities
George wrote:i'd just be cautious about the radius mismatch with a mustang bridge being 7.25" and the jag neck being 9.5"
I'm fairly cack handed but even I noticed the radius not matching with a Mustang bridge on my VM Jazzmaster. Got pretty irritating and I couldn't settle on an action I liked. One Staytrem later and problems gone and i play my Jazzmaster more than any other guitar.
George wrote:besides, trem locks only help stop upward travel, which correct me if i'm wrong, isn't going to help unless you break a string, which will fuck everything else up because of neck tension anyway
the trem lock on my red jag stops all movement*. and breaking a string doesn't affect anything, from experience.
*this could be down to how the trem was set up in the first place.
