I have no money in this period to buy a Staytrem bridge and replace the shit bridge my VM Mustang has. Following the advice of Fakir Mustace, I rotated the bridge so now the heads of the screws are in front of the neck and not the cigar tube/wraparound bar, sorry for the bad pics:
When I bought the guitar, the previous owner lost the trem arm so I'd like to buy a replace one and use it. Always according to Fakir, the tension of the springs under the bridge plate has already been placed on the last and hardest slot. I'm worried about the rotated bridge now: I turned it because the strings steadily rattled; besides they don't touch the "bridge sides" (hope you understand what part of the bridge I refer to) now and I managed to set up quite properly the action/strings height, even if it is still a LITTLE LITTLE LITTLE bit high over the 12th fret.
Would the turned bridge be a problem using the tremolo arm? Could I set up the action perfectly if I put the bridge in its original position? Please, give me some advice on how setting up the VM Mustang Bridge in the perfect way without replacing it.
AMBQ (Another Mustang Bridge Question)
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- Golden_Sonic
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- Location: Italy
AMBQ (Another Mustang Bridge Question)
-Guitar: Squier VM Mustang, Squier CV '50 Duo Sonic;
-Amplifier: Hughes&Kettner Blue Edition 60;
-FXs: Dunlop Cry Baby GCB-95 Wah, Boss BD-2 Blues Drive, Proco RAT, Danelectro Cool Cat Tremolo, EH Small Clone, MUZA FD900, Bespeco Volume pedal.
-Amplifier: Hughes&Kettner Blue Edition 60;
-FXs: Dunlop Cry Baby GCB-95 Wah, Boss BD-2 Blues Drive, Proco RAT, Danelectro Cool Cat Tremolo, EH Small Clone, MUZA FD900, Bespeco Volume pedal.
- Fakir Mustache
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- Posts: 4362
- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 5:23 pm
The reason I turned it around is because with the strings I was using the saddles needed to be farther back, and if I made the saddle too far back the main saddle screw would go up and hit the string.
But you might be able to make it work the other way around.
Also remember you have two ways of raising the strings: raising the whole bridge or the grub screws. So try everything possible to get it to buzz less, it can take a while to do, like several hours maybe.
But I eventually swapped out the Squier bridge. Actually the main reason I swapped it out is because I got it to work without buzzing, but the springs for the low E and G were too short and the saddles got caught in certain positions when using the vibrato. But I'm sure it would have worked if I had replaced those springs with ones from ballpoint pens.
But you might be able to make it work the other way around.
Also remember you have two ways of raising the strings: raising the whole bridge or the grub screws. So try everything possible to get it to buzz less, it can take a while to do, like several hours maybe.
But I eventually swapped out the Squier bridge. Actually the main reason I swapped it out is because I got it to work without buzzing, but the springs for the low E and G were too short and the saddles got caught in certain positions when using the vibrato. But I'm sure it would have worked if I had replaced those springs with ones from ballpoint pens.