Cort lead II, buy or not?

vojtasTS29 · Post by **vojtasTS29** » Sat Mar 05, 2016 9:31 am

Uhmm. There they are. They started to like each other pretty quickly.

gusman2x · Post by **gusman2x** » Sat Mar 05, 2016 9:47 am

That is a really cool looking guitar.

vojtasTS29 · Post by **vojtasTS29** » Sat Mar 05, 2016 9:58 am

Thanks. I am really happy with it, too.

it feels really good and the only mod it has is a brass nut!

And i won't touch it. I thought about installing hot rails, but i need a single coil guitar anyway.

George · Post by **George** » Sat Mar 05, 2016 10:05 am

if its the same as the hondo lead 2 its a great guitar, heavy though

speedfish · Post by **speedfish** » Sat Mar 05, 2016 10:40 am

Congrats!

vojtasTS29 · Post by **vojtasTS29** » Sat Mar 05, 2016 2:00 pm

It's much lighter than my stang... I am currently basically redoing its neck joint tho.

vojtasTS29 · Post by **vojtasTS29** » Sat Mar 05, 2016 3:04 pm

Oh. I Hadn't seen your post speedfish. Thanks

timhulio · Post by **timhulio** » Sat Mar 05, 2016 8:49 pm

They look very similar, so they could well be from the same source. The Cort one looks fine, except for the logo which has been drawn by a fucking child.

JOKES

Anyway, mine hangs out in the office, testing pedals.

vojtasTS29 · Post by **vojtasTS29** » Sat Mar 05, 2016 9:59 pm

Is yours plywood too, or do you have a real body?

I like the japanese trolling of making a fully see through finish on a plywood guitar. Atleast it is a one piece body

dezb1 · Post by **dezb1** » Sun Mar 06, 2016 12:37 am

plywood and one piece? Clue's in the name...

Noirie. · Post by **Noirie.** » Sun Mar 06, 2016 3:17 am

timhulio wrote:The Cort one looks fine, except for the logo which has been drawn by a fucking child.

vojtasTS29 · Post by **vojtasTS29** » Sun Mar 06, 2016 9:44 am

Lol i mean it's a lot of pieces horizontally, but one vertically

George · Post by **George** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 2:31 pm

its not ply wood, just a ridic amount of pieces. 3 or 4 or something like that

vojtasTS29 · Post by **vojtasTS29** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:01 pm

well after fucking redrilling the neck holes, making a big ass wooden layer underneath the badly cut neck instead pf the tonekilling cardboard that was there from the factory, i still can't get the action on the warped neck under 3,2mm over the 12th fret. Which is shit even for my likings using 11's, so i will probably have to go to 10's- The tone is fucking nice tho and the sustain enhanced a lot replacing the paper shit. They basically cut the neck around 3mm thinner than they should have and the guitar was strung left handed for most of it's life(left handed pickguard scratches, left handed strap button hole, left handed brass nut(flipped now)) and both the rear screw holes were stripped which made the neck's end warp to shit. FUCK

I mean the guitar is still fucking cool and i bought it for almost free(the dude even gave me a discount) and i like playing with high action and thick strings, but i was expecting more of a hidden gem and less of another partscaster.

George · Post by **George** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:16 pm

is the piece of wood in the pocket actually wedge shaped so as to necessitate a shimmed angle? or is it just a flat piece of wood covering the whole neck pocket?

also fwiw there is no real difference between a neck's ability to be able to handle being strung left or right handed because they are symmetrical. so if the neck has twisted then its some other factor. the only real issue with flipping a guitar neck (apart from the nut which is changeable) is the side dots being out of view.

so, if the neck has a big bow, have you adjusted the truss rod yet? it should be done slowly over a number of days probably with a bit of a grease/lubricant to help it along. you can also repair the neck mounting holes with wood glue and matches

other possible factors:

- new bridge plate/saddles that are too thick/tall for the intended original guitar neck
- nut could also be incredibly high adding to the awful action

vojtasTS29 · Post by **vojtasTS29** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:52 pm

the nut is fine and the bridge saddles are fine. the body is cut to the fender spec, but the neck is much thinner than 1 inch, so it was shimmed from the factory. Nut action is completely ok. The problem lies here... You can't shim the neck upwards in an angle like on a stang, because it just would not play above like the 13th fret thanks to the fucking warp... The original flat piece was made out of a shitty cardboard, so i made a new wooden one shaped properly to cover the neck pocket. and i repaired the stripped holes by drilling them off and filling them with woden cylinders cut to the diameter+glue. and drilled them new, so that is fixed.

George · Post by **George** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:54 pm

so can you not turn the truss rod at all?

vojtasTS29 · Post by **vojtasTS29** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:57 pm

You can. there is no truss rod problem, the neck is straight and can be truss roded to any shape but bends upwards above the 15th fret where the truss rod of course does not affect anything.

George · Post by **George** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:15 pm

ahh

if it's heel lift, it can possibly be solved by fret levelling the affected upper frets a lot, or even just reseating them if they've popped out slightly due to whatever climate phenomena is responsible

vojtasTS29 · Post by **vojtasTS29** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:20 pm

They are almost sanded flat. the only remedy would be taking the frets out and sanding off the top of the neck. It's like a shitty acoustic really.