NBD: Epiphone EB-3 (Pelham Blue)

Freddy V-C · Post by **Freddy V-C** » Sun Jul 10, 2016 5:48 pm

I've been croatin' for a while about buying a new bass. Finally picked this up yesterday off Gumtree from a bloke in Oldham. It's in pretty much as-new condition (dude had literally used it for some recording, pickguard still covered in cellophane) so Â£190 seemed like a good deal considering these go for Â£269 new and they don't make this colour anymore!

I'm pretty much an SG guy these days - I've played a Yamaha SG200 as my main guitar for the past year and a half and prior to that it was a Vintage VS6 - so an SG style bass seemed like a sensible idea for maintaining my personal brand and that, d'ja feel?

I had a brief play at the guy's house in Oldham, and then again when I got home. Put it through its paces at practice with Super Luxury today and I'm very happy!

I haven't spent much time with Gibson-style basses before but it's definitely a lot different to anything Fender-style I've played. A lot less sustain and more kind of... woody sounding? I like it a lot but it needs a lot of gain to keep up with some of those HOT LICKS and BIG RIFFS. I was always weirdly fond of the sound of my shitty Tanglewood Rebel 4k, but this is definitely on a different level.

Action is higher than I'd like it, but it's playable so I'm thinking I'll leave it as is for the shows we've got coming up in the next few weeks, then get it sorted after that. Certain riffs feel clumsier to play than on my Tanglewood, almost as if the frets are further apart but I'm pretty sure it's the same scale length so idk?

Anyway. Yes. Happy.

Next time I have ca$$h I'll be updating the rest of my bass rig. The same pedals I use for guitar into a Behringer Ultrabass head into whatever-cab-is-lying-around-at-the-practice-space is fine for now, but considering how happy I've been with my guitar tone in the past year or two it would be nice to get this up to the same standard!

ekwatts · Post by **ekwatts** » Sun Jul 10, 2016 6:39 pm

A badass bass. I've always wanted one to tune down to C and melt some faces. With bass. ... +es. I guess.

Post by **Doog** » Sun Jul 10, 2016 9:22 pm

Love it! Minibucker in the back, maxibucker up front wooooo yeeeeeeah!

HNB · Post by **HNB** » Sun Jul 10, 2016 9:46 pm

Hot! Love that blue.

paul_ · Post by **paul_** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 1:15 am

Jesus, you too? I've just got a cherry one. NickS's thread was weird enough!

Re: the high action, make sure your bridge bushings aren't lifting out, a common problem on the Gibson 3-point bass bridge. One of mine needs attention... after that, a minor truss rod tweak will have the action much more agreeable. It's a mahogany neck so it's going to shift more than a Fend-a-bass's with action/tension adjustments. It's also best to have the rear two studs set lower than the front middle one, allegedly.

Post by **Doog** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 9:36 am

Freddy V-C wrote:Action is higher than I'd like it, but it's playable so I'm thinking I'll leave it as is for the shows we've got coming up in the next few weeks, then get it sorted after that. Certain riffs feel clumsier to play than on my Tanglewood, almost as if the frets are further apart but I'm pretty sure it's the same scale length so idk?

Defo learn how to set up your AXES, dude; it's super easy and can make such a ridiculous difference for like 15 minutes work. Hell, I'll do it for you when we're up in Leeds.

Fran · Post by **Fran** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 11:36 am

Nice, Fredster.

Always loved this colour and I think it works better on the SG shape (w/blabk guard) than on the Les Paul's.

Thomas · Post by **Thomas** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 1:26 pm

Fran wrote:Nice, Fredster.

Always loved this colour and I think it works better on the SG shape (w/blabk guard) than on the Les Paul's.

This is pretty much what I was thinking. Lovely bass.

Freddy V-C · Post by **Freddy V-C** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 2:38 pm

Doog wrote:Defo learn how to set up your AXES, dude; it's super easy and can make such a ridiculous difference for like 15 minutes work.

I know, I know. Really need to learn to do this stuff myself, it's just that whenever I've tried in the past I've ballsed it up.

johnnyseven · Post by **johnnyseven** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 2:56 pm

I like it alot. I think Mike Watt has the Gibson version in Pelham Blue.

Post by **Doog** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 3:27 pm

Freddy V-C wrote:
Doog wrote:Defo learn how to set up your AXES, dude; it's super easy and can make such a ridiculous difference for like 15 minutes work.
I know, I know. Really need to learn to do this stuff myself, it's just that whenever I've tried in the past I've ballsed it up.

Youtube and a quiet place are yr frendz

Johnny Alien · Post by **Johnny Alien** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 3:44 pm

Love that color!

Freddy V-C · Post by **Freddy V-C** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 4:23 pm

Doog wrote:
Freddy V-C wrote:
Doog wrote:Defo learn how to set up your AXES, dude; it's super easy and can make such a ridiculous difference for like 15 minutes work.
I know, I know. Really need to learn to do this stuff myself, it's just that whenever I've tried in the past I've ballsed it up.
Youtube and a quiet place are yr frendz

I've got nothing on this afternoon/evening so thought I might as well get stuck in.

Loosened all the strings and thought I'd get down to business lowering the action. But pretty much every adjustment I make is causing the bridge anchor sockets to pop out.

After a quick Google, this seems to be pretty common with the three-point Gibson-style bridge, but there seems to be conflicting information regarding whether it's something that needs to be ~fixed~ or it's just the nature of the bridge.

Like, some stuff I'm seeing says it's because the holes have gotten worn due to friction, so you need to wrap some tissue paper or tape around them in order to stop it from happening. Other people are saying it's just a case of setting the bridge at the right angle so that it doesn't happen.

I certainly can't seem to find an angle where it doesn't happen, but I also tried wrapping tape around and that didn't work either.

So yeah I pretty much ballsed it up, ha. Any ideas?

NickS · Post by **NickS** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 4:29 pm

Add split matchsticks/kebab skewers to make the holes smaller?

Freddy V-C · Post by **Freddy V-C** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 5:09 pm

How would that work, Nick? I can't quite visualise it...

Just to avoid any potential ambiguity, this is the situation I've got. As soon as I tighten up the strings the whole thing pops out...

Post by **Doog** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 6:06 pm

Not sure it'll work as the posts don't screw-in, but basically cut 3-4 matches/toothpicks so they're the same depth as the hole, stand 'em up against the sides of the route, evenly spaced. Maybe cut the matches down the middle first so they're not so fat.

Then bash the bridge posts back in, ideally with a rubber mallet or a fucking SHOE or summat.

Failing that, I'd bust out the wood glue.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 6:50 pm

What Doog said definitely works for screws, I'm having a harder time visualizing press in bushings working as well though I imagine it could...screws act like augers and the toothpick will splinter inside the hole until it's compressed enough that it holds the screw in place.

Short of doweling and redrilling proper size holes, or finding bridge post pots that are slightly wider diameter, I'm thinking wood glue is probably your best option....don't take my word tho, do more research from people who have actually done the repair before.

dezb1 · Post by **dezb1** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:04 pm

Plumbers tape round the bushings then hammer them back in tight...

NickS · Post by **NickS** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:09 pm

NickS wrote:Add split matchsticks/kebab skewers to make the holes smaller?

Doog wrote: Maybe cut the matches down the middle first so they're not so fat.

I don't see why reducing the size of the hole using split matchstick or hardwood skewer shims to make it a tighter fit shouldn't work. Glue seems a bit drastic.

Post by **Doog** » Thu Jul 14, 2016 11:42 am

Didja dewit, didja Fred, didja?