Building a lightweight 1x12 cab
Moderated By: mods
Building a lightweight 1x12 cab
I am fundamentally incapable of not overcomplicating everything.
color key:
sand: cheap pine ply
tan dowels: poplar
tan veneers: super cheap Home Depot 1/8" generic hardwood ply. inner veneers not pictured
pink: extruded polystyrene insulation foam sheet (Foamular)
speaker (neodymium): Jensen Jet Tornado 80
It's more or less assembled at this point, pictures to come.
todo:
- make speaker and back baffles
- apply wood filler to unwanted gaps/holes
- rout roundovers (1/2")
- paint
- mount speaker, baffles, handle, corners
color key:
sand: cheap pine ply
tan dowels: poplar
tan veneers: super cheap Home Depot 1/8" generic hardwood ply. inner veneers not pictured
pink: extruded polystyrene insulation foam sheet (Foamular)
speaker (neodymium): Jensen Jet Tornado 80
It's more or less assembled at this point, pictures to come.
todo:
- make speaker and back baffles
- apply wood filler to unwanted gaps/holes
- rout roundovers (1/2")
- paint
- mount speaker, baffles, handle, corners
Last edited by Grant on Sun Jun 04, 2017 11:03 am, edited 8 times in total.
Continue them walls:
Plane sandwich parts to final thickness:
Forget to take pics of anything but the sides.
TEST FIT THEM MOTHERFUCKERS:
Note the dovetails. The dovetails were a mistake. More on that later.
Plane sandwich parts to final thickness:
Forget to take pics of anything but the sides.
TEST FIT THEM MOTHERFUCKERS:
Note the dovetails. The dovetails were a mistake. More on that later.
Last edited by Grant on Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Summon a skeleton:
hail satan.
hail satan.
Last edited by Grant on Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
On dovetails in plywood, and why they were a bad idea.
The dovetails were added to the design when I still planned to use solid wood. When I made the switch to plywood, I did not reassess their inclusion.
I assume there are ways to do this correctly. I'm just learning CNC stuff, and doing so with dulled communal endmills. I ended up with lots of tear out:
This was compounded by the fact that I left entirely too much to hand-finishing. I didn't take full advantage of the CNC's capabilities, didn't design with them in mind, so I ended up sloppily bashing/sanding/cutting things to fit. So it goes!
The dovetails were added to the design when I still planned to use solid wood. When I made the switch to plywood, I did not reassess their inclusion.
I assume there are ways to do this correctly. I'm just learning CNC stuff, and doing so with dulled communal endmills. I ended up with lots of tear out:
This was compounded by the fact that I left entirely too much to hand-finishing. I didn't take full advantage of the CNC's capabilities, didn't design with them in mind, so I ended up sloppily bashing/sanding/cutting things to fit. So it goes!
Pre glue:
Design flaws and inexpert hand-finishing left gaps, and wood glue is a very poor gap filler, so I opted to use polyurethane construction adhesive. Polyurethane construction adhesive expands when it cures, moreso than I anticipated. I don't have any pics of the post-cure state of the cab, but a mm or two have been added to the width and height due to the expansion between the walls and the skeleton. S'all good. Should be easy to avoid next time.
Design flaws and inexpert hand-finishing left gaps, and wood glue is a very poor gap filler, so I opted to use polyurethane construction adhesive. Polyurethane construction adhesive expands when it cures, moreso than I anticipated. I don't have any pics of the post-cure state of the cab, but a mm or two have been added to the width and height due to the expansion between the walls and the skeleton. S'all good. Should be easy to avoid next time.
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Progress!
Routed all outer edges with a 1/2" roundover bit:
Ridiculous tear-out of the cheap plywood veneer:
Short recap: design flaws resulted in joints that wouldn't work with wood glue. I chose to use polyurethane construction adhesive for its gap-filling properties. Turns out it's easy to overdo the glue when you don't know what you're doing, and that gap-filling glues can expand gaps.
Gap at corners:
Gap between wall, veneer.
Welp!
I set about closing inner gaps with caulk and outer gaps with wood filler. I had never used caulk before, and decided to skip the "tape what you don't want caulked" step.
Results were predictable:
Looks like someone murdered the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man.
Wood filler on the corners/etc. Bondo would have been a better choice, I think.
Looking good. Looking real good.
Routed all outer edges with a 1/2" roundover bit:
Ridiculous tear-out of the cheap plywood veneer:
Short recap: design flaws resulted in joints that wouldn't work with wood glue. I chose to use polyurethane construction adhesive for its gap-filling properties. Turns out it's easy to overdo the glue when you don't know what you're doing, and that gap-filling glues can expand gaps.
Gap at corners:
Gap between wall, veneer.
Welp!
I set about closing inner gaps with caulk and outer gaps with wood filler. I had never used caulk before, and decided to skip the "tape what you don't want caulked" step.
Results were predictable:
Looks like someone murdered the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man.
Wood filler on the corners/etc. Bondo would have been a better choice, I think.
Looking good. Looking real good.
Last edited by Grant on Sat Jul 22, 2017 7:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
Things are ugly. Let's try to make them less ugly, a little, maybe.
Go back over the edges with the roundover bit:
Pause for selfie with the nerdpace's mantra:
Spend untold hours sanding, scraping, chiseling, etc.:
Hail Satan.
Go back over the edges with the roundover bit:
Pause for selfie with the nerdpace's mantra:
Spend untold hours sanding, scraping, chiseling, etc.:
Hail Satan.
Last edited by Grant on Sat Jul 22, 2017 7:22 am, edited 1 time in total.