Does Neck Angle make a guitar play harder?
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Does Neck Angle make a guitar play harder?
I hope someone could possibly answer a question for me: Does the angle of the neck on a bolt on Squier ( a Jaguar in this case) influence the ' stiffness' / tension of the strings?
I have arthritis and after 40 plus years of playing, have had to switch to 24 inch scale Jaguars to ease the pressure on my hands. I have 3 different Jaguars that were set up by the same luthier ( frets leveled, action low as possible, neck nearly dead straight all to facilitate ease of play ability) 2 of the guitars are of the same run ( Squier HH from around 2011 with the all in one 3 point hard tail tilt bridge / 3 screws - 2 on the sides - bass and treble and one center rear)
The other is a Squier Modern Vintage that I had the bridge replaced with the same 3 point bridge as the other 2.
The 1st of the 2 Squier HH Jags plays like ice skating with butter on your feet, the second came back and played stiff/ harder for no apparent reason ( again set up the very same way). I just got the Squier Modern Vintage Jag back today ( again with the same 3 point all in one bridge installed) and it played as easy ( if not more so) as the 1st HH Jag.
After much going over and scrutinizing, the only thing I came up with was the 1st HH Jag and the Squier Modern Vintage had nearly the same neck tilt ( I dont have the tools to judge actual angle, but with my calipers, from the top of the fret board/end of neck to the top of the pick guard, they both set about 5.50 - 5.60 mm above the face of the guitar, the 2nd hard playing HH Jag on the other hand sets almost a full mm lower at 4.50 mm. So with way to much info, could anyone possibly tell me if this does indeed influence string tension, or could it be something else.
Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
I have arthritis and after 40 plus years of playing, have had to switch to 24 inch scale Jaguars to ease the pressure on my hands. I have 3 different Jaguars that were set up by the same luthier ( frets leveled, action low as possible, neck nearly dead straight all to facilitate ease of play ability) 2 of the guitars are of the same run ( Squier HH from around 2011 with the all in one 3 point hard tail tilt bridge / 3 screws - 2 on the sides - bass and treble and one center rear)
The other is a Squier Modern Vintage that I had the bridge replaced with the same 3 point bridge as the other 2.
The 1st of the 2 Squier HH Jags plays like ice skating with butter on your feet, the second came back and played stiff/ harder for no apparent reason ( again set up the very same way). I just got the Squier Modern Vintage Jag back today ( again with the same 3 point all in one bridge installed) and it played as easy ( if not more so) as the 1st HH Jag.
After much going over and scrutinizing, the only thing I came up with was the 1st HH Jag and the Squier Modern Vintage had nearly the same neck tilt ( I dont have the tools to judge actual angle, but with my calipers, from the top of the fret board/end of neck to the top of the pick guard, they both set about 5.50 - 5.60 mm above the face of the guitar, the 2nd hard playing HH Jag on the other hand sets almost a full mm lower at 4.50 mm. So with way to much info, could anyone possibly tell me if this does indeed influence string tension, or could it be something else.
Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
There could be a couple of other factors, such as the action on the tighter guitar being a bit higher, or the strings themselves (brand and how new they are etc.), but essentially, yes, string compliance (a little bit different to string tension) is the feeling of a guitars strings tightness or looseness. Assuming the same strings, the tension remains the same, as strings need to reach a specific tension to reach a certain pitch.
This is a really good article on it: http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.htm
To summarise, compliance is affected by break angles past the nut and saddles created by different things:
- string trees or angled headstocks
- angle and distance of string from the bridge to the string anchors
- bridge saddle type (think wide dull angles on roller bridges vs sharp angles on a standard tune-o-matic)
Tighter feeling strings:
Looser feeling strings:
I'm not sure exactly what you're describing, but if a neck is shimmed so it tilts toward the headstock, the bridge will be higher up than the others which could mean a sharper break angle and less compliance (tighter strings).
This is a really good article on it: http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.htm
To summarise, compliance is affected by break angles past the nut and saddles created by different things:
- string trees or angled headstocks
- angle and distance of string from the bridge to the string anchors
- bridge saddle type (think wide dull angles on roller bridges vs sharp angles on a standard tune-o-matic)
Tighter feeling strings:
Looser feeling strings:
I'm not sure exactly what you're describing, but if a neck is shimmed so it tilts toward the headstock, the bridge will be higher up than the others which could mean a sharper break angle and less compliance (tighter strings).
Last edited by George on Sat Apr 07, 2018 9:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Wow George, this is excellent, anyone else have a thought on the matter???George wrote:There could be a couple of other factors, such as the action on the tighter guitar being a bit higher, or the strings themselves (brand and how new the strings are etc.), but essentially, yes, string compliance (a little bit different to string tension) is the feeling of a guitars strings tightness or looseness. Assuming the same strings, the tension remains the same, as strings need to reach a specific tension to reach a certain pitch.
This is a really good article on it: http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.htm
To summarise, compliance is affected by break angles past the nut and saddles created by different things:
- string trees or angled headstocks
- angle and distance of string from the bridge to the string anchors
- bridge saddle type (think wide dull angles on roller bridges vs sharp angles on a standard tune-o-matic)
Tighter feeling strings:
Looser feeling strings:
If a neck is shimmed so it tilts toward the headstock, the bridge will be higher up than the others which could mean a sharper break angle and less compliance (tighter strings), but it's worth looking at other factors.
George's info is good however from your post it seems (I might have read this wrong) the one that feels tighter is the one with LESS of a neck angle? i.e. flatter in the neck pocket? If anything that would create less of a break angle over the saddles and therefore shouldn't make the strings feel tighter.
Seems obvious but are all the strings the same? Brand and guages?
Seems obvious but are all the strings the same? Brand and guages?
How big are frets on your guitars? I find that jumbo frets add extra tension to the general feel. Medium frets make a gigantic difference for me - my left hand gets fatigued far less quickly and I have more control over my playing. Maybe you should try vintage sized frets? Though they are not good for bends
Also skinnier sets of strings like 7,8,9s are easier to play
If any of your guitars have a tune-o-matic bridge try to flip strings so they go over the stop tailpiece - that also creates lesser tension
Also skinnier sets of strings like 7,8,9s are easier to play
If any of your guitars have a tune-o-matic bridge try to flip strings so they go over the stop tailpiece - that also creates lesser tension
matte30is wrote:Someone man up and get a balloon.
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Thank you to everyone that posted, heres a few points to your posts
1. I may be playing the lightest gauge string in the world 36-28-20-13-10 and 7 AND tuned 1/2 step down ( Eb)
and yes they intonate, luckily i have a really light touch and can stay in tune. All guitars are the same gauge and string type ( D'Addario)
and all guitars 24 inch scale.
2. fret size in about medium jumbo ( that's what fender describes them, they are not too fat or wide, with C-profile maple neck with 9.5"-radius rosewood fingerboard ( actually the radius' on all of them have been flattened more closer to a 12 radius in the middle after my luthier leveled the frets on them all, again out of 4 guitars, only the one plays hard)
3. the bridge on the hard playing jag is almost level now with fret board ( the other 2 with the same bridge is tilted back) it in theory has less of a break than the other 2 easy playing guitars ( and yes originally it started at the same break angle as the other 2 easy playing guitars)
4. and I am seriously thinking about just going ahead and shimming the neck on the hard playing one, cause, nobody wants their hands to catch on fire after 10 minutes of playing...
Any other comments, thoughts ???? please help me figure out this rubics cube missing a tile.......
1. I may be playing the lightest gauge string in the world 36-28-20-13-10 and 7 AND tuned 1/2 step down ( Eb)
and yes they intonate, luckily i have a really light touch and can stay in tune. All guitars are the same gauge and string type ( D'Addario)
and all guitars 24 inch scale.
2. fret size in about medium jumbo ( that's what fender describes them, they are not too fat or wide, with C-profile maple neck with 9.5"-radius rosewood fingerboard ( actually the radius' on all of them have been flattened more closer to a 12 radius in the middle after my luthier leveled the frets on them all, again out of 4 guitars, only the one plays hard)
3. the bridge on the hard playing jag is almost level now with fret board ( the other 2 with the same bridge is tilted back) it in theory has less of a break than the other 2 easy playing guitars ( and yes originally it started at the same break angle as the other 2 easy playing guitars)
4. and I am seriously thinking about just going ahead and shimming the neck on the hard playing one, cause, nobody wants their hands to catch on fire after 10 minutes of playing...
Any other comments, thoughts ???? please help me figure out this rubics cube missing a tile.......
- Fran
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Quality post George.George wrote:There could be a couple of other factors, such as the action on the tighter guitar being a bit higher, or the strings themselves (brand and how new they are etc.), but essentially, yes, string compliance (a little bit different to string tension) is the feeling of a guitars strings tightness or looseness. Assuming the same strings, the tension remains the same, as strings need to reach a specific tension to reach a certain pitch.
This is a really good article on it: http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.htm
To summarise, compliance is affected by break angles past the nut and saddles created by different things:
- string trees or angled headstocks
- angle and distance of string from the bridge to the string anchors
- bridge saddle type (think wide dull angles on roller bridges vs sharp angles on a standard tune-o-matic)
Tighter feeling strings:
Looser feeling strings:
I'm not sure exactly what you're describing, but if a neck is shimmed so it tilts toward the headstock, the bridge will be higher up than the others which could mean a sharper break angle and less compliance (tighter strings).
I used to raise the tailpiece on Epiphones to give the guitar a 'loose' feel. So I'd definitely say the neck angle will also affect the tension.
There are lots of other factors of course.
I also found D'addario strings had a looser feel than say Ernie Balls, so started using them as well.
- Fran
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It always pays to give the frets a polish now and then as well.
I cut a fret slot on an old plastic credit card, place it over the first fret and gently rub the fret with fine .0000 wire wool, working all the way up the neck.
It will clean off any gunk and give that smooth feel especially on string bending.
You could go one further and use a compound and polishing disc with a dremmel.
You mention arthritis in your hand, have you considered super light gauge strings?
The Reverend Willys .07 gauge designed with/for Billy Gibbons are really good strings. They sound excellent and don't break easily.
LINK
*Edit* I just saw you already tried that
I cut a fret slot on an old plastic credit card, place it over the first fret and gently rub the fret with fine .0000 wire wool, working all the way up the neck.
It will clean off any gunk and give that smooth feel especially on string bending.
You could go one further and use a compound and polishing disc with a dremmel.
You mention arthritis in your hand, have you considered super light gauge strings?
The Reverend Willys .07 gauge designed with/for Billy Gibbons are really good strings. They sound excellent and don't break easily.
LINK
*Edit* I just saw you already tried that
Side note.
My mom had this shit called "trigger finger".
It's genetic lucky me I found out.
It's where the tendon in your hand that's attached to your finger gets all messed up and tries to get out of your skin. From the inside out.
Ask your Dr to check it out.
The surgery to fix it looks like some kinda 1100s Christian torture shit
My mom had this shit called "trigger finger".
It's genetic lucky me I found out.
It's where the tendon in your hand that's attached to your finger gets all messed up and tries to get out of your skin. From the inside out.
Ask your Dr to check it out.
The surgery to fix it looks like some kinda 1100s Christian torture shit
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GAH!robroe wrote:Side note.
My mom had this shit called "trigger finger".
It's genetic lucky me I found out.
It's where the tendon in your hand that's attached to your finger gets all messed up and tries to get out of your skin. From the inside out.
Ask your Dr to check it out.
The surgery to fix it looks like some kinda 1100s Christian torture shit
► Show Spoiler
This is great, thanks George; have never seen this topic properly discussed without someone bringing fucken TONEWOODS and ENDLESS SUSTAIN and other terms that are completely irrelevant when talking about electric guitars.George wrote: This is a really good article on it: http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.ht.
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Nah dude tonewood dude resonance dude pickups don’t matter dude just get the best tonewood dude. John Mayer made the Silver Sky because PRS has the best tonewood dude.Doog wrote:This is great, thanks George; have never seen this topic properly discussed without someone bringing fucken TONEWOODS and ENDLESS SUSTAIN and other terms that are completely irrelevant when talking about electric guitars.George wrote: This is a really good article on it: http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.ht.