dots wrote:don't listen to rob's comparison's of his squier addiction to the same shape of the same guitar versus a 55yo antique, ffs. one doesn't buy invest in something like this because they need a workhorse guitar to gig with/rage on in the basement. it's a piece of history that has a lot of sentiment and value in it that, oh yeah, can also make beautiful recordings. maybe you could shave a hundo or two off the price; maybe not. i agree with the sentiment that this is only going to increase in value, so no time like the present.
let's put it this way -- it likely won't depreciate much if any at all if you change your mind/need funds a year from now.
^That's pretty much my exact thoughts about it.
The seller of the eBay Mustang measured the nut and confirmed 1.5" width, and claims the frets are in very good shape w/no buzz and was not played very often. I sent a fair offer slightly higher than the final value after the cuts eBay and Paypal would take; He took down the eBay listing and I'm driving down to NJ on Sunday to pick it up. The seller seems like an honest guy but he didn't take the best photos and he doesn't seem comfortable with removing the neck and such. I plan to bring tools with me and try to check as much as I can out before purchase (neck stamp/pocket cracks, pickups and body cavity).
Slot head screw for holding the reverb handle and only two steps for holding the spring.
Reissues have three steps for spring tension, and a hex nut for holding the handle.
1960s bridges have those anthill or volcano things on the sides.
Nick wrote:What do you mean by 3 step vs 2 step? Is that something I can check for without disassembling the vibrato unit?
Nope, it's that thing on the left that the spring attaches to. There is an extra place to the left of that where you can move the spring's circular end to. The reissues have three levels instead of two.
Well you don't have to disassemble the unit, just remove it from the body.
Ah, I’m probably going to need to gamble on that then, if everything else checks out I’m thinking there’s a low chance anyone swapped that out at some point.
I may be having a some second thoughts as I'm now realizing all the differences besides serial number. This one is likely an early 1966, possibly a late 1965. Which means a larger headstock, probably slab fretboard, pearl inlays instead of clay dots, F tuners, from what I can tell an increased possibility the neck is actually a B width if it is indeed a slab (I can't find any photos of a slab A width neck).
Most of these changes may all be minor cosmetic differences, and I'm not about to claim I can hear or feel the difference between a slab or veneer rosewood fretboard, but overall I think I would prefer the aesthetic of the simpler, delicate features of the earlier models.
That said I think I will still go check it out and hopefully like it enough to bring it back. It still looks to be in amazing condition, and since guitars from this era can vary so much from piece to piece I think there might be an equal odds that I'll like this one to one that matches my specs on paper disappointing me if I bought it blind.
I bought it. It was in as described condition, could use a setup but plays fine as it is. The switches could do with a contact cleaner, although the pots look all original and still function smoothly. It is actually a B neck as I suspected but that may be better in the long run, as it’s still narrower than most modern guitars and is still super comfortable. Also despite being a late 65/66 model, it has my preference of laminate fretboard instead of slab.
I’ll take more photos later, I’ll add gut photos when I change the strings. I did check under the pickguard before I bought it but just enough to see that it hadn’t been routed for a humbucker or anything. I’m a bit afraid to take the neck off since the seller claims it has never been removed, and his father is doubtful the previous owner he bought it from in the early 70’s would have had reason to remove it. I may just ask for a photo when I have it set up.
Amazing. Congrats!
I think a B width is better, I had an A neck on a ‘62 duo sonic And it was pretty cool, but in the end felt cramped to play. The B is as you say still smaller than most modern necks.
