Today I reverted the Swinger to its original pickup position and pickguard. I added the robroe that someone kindly gave me a few years back.
The original rout and the one I dug out for a bridge position back in 1975 or 76. I didn't have a router.
When I tried it in the shop the pickup was open circuit. It worked with a valve amp (1M input) but not significantly with a transistor amp (50K input). They got it rewound hotter - 11k.
I have no idea what the code on the bottom of the pickup means. The bridge earthing seems to be a bit of guitar string between the bridge and the control plate.
It looks like the control cavity screening plate is soldered to some sort of fixing in the end of the cavity (same the other end).
Et viola!
It is missing two pickguard screws if anyone has any lying around or has any recommendations....
Fakir Mustache wrote:Nice guitar. I'm thinking the pickup is from 73 and the volume pot 67.
I thought the last digit on the pickup was an 8 or 9, meaning 68 or 69 from what I've just read on 4-digit codes. I suppose I should get it rewound to vintage specs, 11K iis ridiculous for the era.
Fakir Mustache wrote:Nice guitar. I'm thinking the pickup is from 73 and the volume pot 67.
I thought the last digit on the pickup was an 8 or 9, meaning 68 or 69 from what I've just read on 4-digit codes. I suppose I should get it rewound to vintage specs, 11K iis ridiculous for the era.
Could be right.
Here's a 68, old style writing.
69 is stamped, like yours.
Lower output neck works better if you use distortion or fuzz. It's too harsh for the bridge unless you play clean.
When I bought it it was CAR but the finish was chipped and flaking off so I stripped and sealed it (fairly sloppily, tbh). You can still see it in the shot of the routs. The finish was also peeling off the neck so I stripped that and refinished it in polyurethane. If I knew then what I know now....