originally started in this thread as a re-fin/reimagining idea for getting my hands on at least an approximation of an orange comp stang (circa late 60s/70s era fenders), i was rightfully talked off that ledge and have ordered parts from various sellers to build one. all in, it appears it's going to run about $1,150 w/ an HSC which i believe would have been at least that had i imported one from japan. a fender pro shop order would have been about double that, and a vintage one would have been anywhere from 2.5 - 3x that. plus, i get to put this thing together. since i don't have the space or tools to properly cut or shoot here, it's basically a prefinished kit to be assembled.
of course! this will be my first place to go with any issues in setup, and i am so lucky there are folks like yourself who are experts on dialing in mustang hardware and willing to help out relative n00bs like myself.
i got a mustang bridge from warmoth with the thinking there being they'll route it more precisely with hardware they sell.
this is going to be a long couple of months waiting especially as all the other parts arrive!
If it's still possible I'd change the toan wood to the alder toan wood just from the practical point of view. Basswood toan wood apart from being prone to toan dents of the toan finish is very poor at holding toan screws of the toan strap buttons, toan pickguard etc. Toan alder is mechanically sturdier than toan basswood and will be better for a Mustang body imo. At the same time there's nothing wrong with basswood, VM Mustangs and CV Duo Sonic have baswood bodies
Didn't realize until I opened the box before taking the photo that the wiring was already done on the switches/pots, thought I was just getting a kit. Oh well, still have to solder the pickups and ground to the bridge.
Weird fact, white knob f tuners can only be bought 1 at a time in Canada, and long and Mcquade (our GC) couldn’t get the, last time I tried. Apparently fender doesn’t like selling them here.
Dots, if you want a hardtail plate let me know, I have a spare kicking around
Got the waterslide decals in, and I suddenly realized, not having used them before other than building model airplanes as a kid, I have no idea how best to apply them to a finished headstock. I've looked it up, and from what I've read, lightly sanding the area for application and then applying clear coat after the decals dry is what's called for. Anything else I'm missing or other advice?
dots wrote:Got the waterslide decals in, and I suddenly realized, not having used them before other than building model airplanes as a kid, I have no idea how best to apply them to a finished headstock. I've looked it up, and from what I've read, lightly sanding the area for application and then applying clear coat after the decals dry is what's called for. Anything else I'm missing or other advice?
I've never done that.
apply straight on headstock without sanding. let dry. done.
you have to spray a couple of layers of clear on the decal before applying to headstock. but some decal companies do that for you.
the good news is the body and neck are in production and headed for the paint department. the bad news is i checked with my sales guy who said it's probably another 6 - 7 weeks before i get a shipping notice.
EDIT: that least should indicate they're going to allow the proper amount of time to cure, i suppose. better they do a good job than a quick one.
latest update is warmoth updated their site (finally!) which looks great and functions a whole lot better.
the down side is the customer logins mostly don't work anymore, including mine. so i emailed them about status since we are now in july. they said they're just waiting on the neck to come back from the paint department before sending the whole thing over to quality control for inspection. as long as it passes muster there, i should be getting a shipment notification in about a week. AM EXCITE
