Amp Head Switcher

euan · Post by **euan** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:15 pm

Tonebone Headbone

This looks pretty sweet. I wondered a few years ago if something like this was available and this is the first time I've seen it. Use one amp for clean, one for dirty and all through one cab.

Post by **Mike** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:18 pm

Yup,

They make a whole load of switching based pedals. Quite pricey, but when you consider that it is seamlessly applying a dummy load for the inactive amplifier it's pretty damn cool - that's not a simple thing to do well and not cause damage.

They have a couple of 12AX7 based distortion/overdrive pedals like the Plexitone and the Hot British that look alright too.

More Cowbell · Post by **More Cowbell** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:21 pm

Sweet!

euan · Post by **euan** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:21 pm

Yeah I've known about the tube distortion pedals for a while, but never knew about the rest of the range. I agree that it's a pretty awesome bit of electronic engineering, the kind that makes me wish I had stuck with my electronics degree.

Post by **Mike** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:25 pm

bunf wrote: Connections:
Connecting the Headbone is easy. You need three guitar cables and three speaker cables. It is just a simple matter of following the signal flow. The connections for Headbone VT, SS, and TS are identical ? the Headbone VT is shown here.
.
Note: Radial's high-grade speaker cable kit including three 6-foot 12-gauge
speaker cables is available from your Tonebone dealer: Order # R800 7082 01

First, sure all amplifiers are off and volume levels set to zero.

Connecting the three guitar cables:
1. Connect the guitar to the Headbone 'BUFFERED INPUT'.
2. Connect the Headbone ?TO AMP-1 INPUT? to your first head.
3. Connect the Headbone ?TO AMP-2 INPUT? to your second head.

Make sure you set the impedance on both heads to match your speaker cabinet. Most heads allow you to select between 4-Ohms, 8-Ohms and 16-Ohms. If you are not sure, consult your Tonebone dealer. Now turn on your amps and slowly turn up your volume. It is a good practice to always test your equipment at low levels as most system errors are caused by improper connections. This way, should something not be working, it is highly unlikely that you will cause system damage.

Connecting the three speaker cables:
4. Connect Amp-1 speaker output to the Headbone 'HEAD-1' input.
5. Connect Amp-2 speaker output to the Headbone 'HEAD-2' input.
6. Connect the Headbone 'TO SPEAKER CABINET' to your cabinet.

If all is working, you can now add your pedal board to the system. If you have a signal buffer like the Radial Loopbone or Switchbone, you should use the Headbone?s un-buffered input.

Using the Slingshot? remote:
Slingshot? remote can use any footswitch to control switching from afar.

The Slingshot remote on the Headbone is a simple contact closure that employs a latching footswitch. Most standard guitar amplifiers use these switches to change amp channels or turn on the reverb. Most Tonebone dealers have these types of switches in stock. As soon as you connect a switch to the Slingshot input, the on-board switch will be bypassed, allowing remote switching.

You are now set to go!

The remote switching is an excellent idea, otherwise you'd have guitar and speaker cable everywhere!

Post by **Mike** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:29 pm

What's even cooler is that they tell you how to make your own remote switch in the manual so you don't have to buy theirs if you don't want to - that's very cool.

euan · Post by **euan** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 4:07 pm

Mike wrote:What's even cooler is that they tell you how to make your own remote switch in the manual so you don't have to buy theirs if you don't want to - that's very cool.

That is indeed. If only they told you how to make to make the head switcher too