anywho
this is the guard im making a temp from its a might mite p-bass guard.
so i lay it down, face down and trace it out. then work it will the band saw(my sander died today otherwise i would use it as well)
then i doublstick tape it, face down as well. and work it some more with the band saw and get it as close as possilbe.
any area that i cannot get as close as i want or for whatever reason is just hard to get to i make lil slots in the wood so that way when i do go to the router table it will give it "break points" where the router can rest. this helps alot with keeping everying nice and steady. other wise the wood may be too thick to cut and too dense so the router will either jump or the bearing will melt the plastic, this is the careful part that i was talking about in the last thread.
then of course i match the bearing to the guard, notice how it sits, i used thick double stick to levitate it a bit awafrom the mdf.
i want this extra space becuz there is about 1.5 mms of space between the top of the cutter and the bottom of the bearing meaning that when i cut it normall i will end up with this.
notice how 95% of the template is cut correctly and there is a small amount of "fringe" on the bottom, that is the space on thebit that im referring to, i merely flip it as you see it and run it on the router table again.
once i have made it all the way around it looks like this.
now its time to take it to the drill press and get the screw holes in there and the pots and jack holes.
this is pretty self explaining.
and here is the finished template next to the og template.
notice how the template has rouded edge where the pup is?
well thick about a ball in the corner of the room, no matter how small the ball(unless its the size of a bearing or something) it will never touch the inside of the right angle. this is something that i will have to do by hand whenever i made a guard, i will just follow this exactly and then use a file and razor to get the right angle.
make sense?
