I am just so crap at painting
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I am just so crap at painting
I just don't seem to be able to spray a continuous coat of polyurethane without a run. If I do it it lighter I don't actually get 100% cover (second pic, where it looks lumpy).
I think I'm going to have to set up something like a barbecue spit rotator like they do to avoid runs on car bodies.
Thanks for the suggestion. So you don't try to join all the dots on the first coat?tribi9 wrote:When I painted my Cyclone, I sprayed light coats each time (I think I did like like 6-7 coats) And I never got any lumps or orange peel. Spray lightly eventually it'll be all covered!
Thanks for the encouraging words. This is about the fourth attempt over the last 30 years. It was originally a dark green, then flat gold (which looked crap, with runs), then flat orange (with runs), then matt white for younger son Matt (??) and I'm redoing it black sparkle with clear coat for my younger daughter.sublimedo wrote:dont get discouraged. If you hate the way it looks sand it all off and start over. I used to think it was such a reranch thing to say, but its true. its well worth the patience.
I went 800/1000/1500/2000 grit and yes it was a bitch to get here too!NickS wrote:OK, sprayed thin coats until the can ran out.
Now letting it hang and harden (the neck is to hang it by, there's about 1/16" gap between the neck and body)
then it's rub down (finest grit I can get around here is 600 wet/dry) and polish?
- robert(original)
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if u want a super shiny clear coat without having to sand it, then Spray gun is your way to go. The clear coat just goes on like butter. The only downsides are that you have to use an air compressor and clean your gun thoroughly afterwards which takes awhile. But you still have to mist it first, wait 2-3 minutes, come back and apply one coat, wait 5 minutes, come back and do another coat, wait 5-10 minutes, etc.
I don't have that kind of machinery.roachello wrote:if u want a super shiny clear coat without having to sand it, then Spray gun is your way to go. The clear coat just goes on like butter. The only downsides are that you have to use an air compressor and clean your gun thoroughly afterwards which takes awhile. But you still have to mist it first, wait 2-3 minutes, come back and apply one coat, wait 5 minutes, come back and do another coat, wait 5-10 minutes, etc.
I asked my brother, who works for a refinish car paint manufacturer, whether he could get it done as an apprentice piece, preferrably in a chameleon (flip) colour. "We're not allowed to do that sort of thing since the Americans took over."
I'm told I may be able to get finer grits in a refinish pack from Halfords (UK car parts/accessories chain) so I'll try to get there at lunchtime.
- ihatetanks
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- robert(original)
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really.....
only problem with that is, even if the lacquer has dried and you spray another coat, it "burns in" and will remove the layer underneath it.
found that out when i made that green archtop during the summer, a bug flew into the finish and when i pulled it off some of the color came off as well.
only problem with that is, even if the lacquer has dried and you spray another coat, it "burns in" and will remove the layer underneath it.
found that out when i made that green archtop during the summer, a bug flew into the finish and when i pulled it off some of the color came off as well.
- Ninja Mike 808
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- robert(original)
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- Ninja Mike 808
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Exactly!euan wrote:Flip the can upside down and spray until clean?Ninja Mike 808 wrote:Looks like a Jackson I spray painted back in the day...
Try cleaning the nozzle in between coats.
Really, tho? Spray paint? I mean, I FUCKED up that jackson, lmao
No matter what, tho, spray paint or air brushing, or one of those car painters, you should always clean the fucked out of it before/ after use. Even spray paint, I always change caps, I mean, you can clean em, but it's not like those little pieces of plastic cost a lot... If you can't change the cap, how ever, try using a needle or somethin'.