Few jaguar Q's
Moderated By: mods
Few jaguar Q's
Hey guys, I'm currently in posession of a CIJ Jag and I'm wanting to know a few things about it. Firstly, I was wondering how drastically is the bridge meant to rock in the posts? The jag I have has a mustang bridge on it and the legs fit SNUG into the cups without being taped.
Also, is it possible to mod a CIJ's wiring so when both pups are on you get hum cancelling, like a vintage Jag?
Also, is it possible to mod a CIJ's wiring so when both pups are on you get hum cancelling, like a vintage Jag?
- BobArsecake
- a mannequin made by madmen
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- Jagermeister
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series/parallel? how does that have to do with hum cancelling... The stock pickups won't do hum cancelling in any case. They'll cancel hum if they're parallel (ie the stock arrangement) and RWRP (reverse winding reverse polarity) from each other, which Duncans, AV, and vintage pickups are but CIJs aren't.
Whether pickups are in series (acting as one pickup essentially) or parallel (acting as two seperates), if they're RWRP they should buck hum. Try wiring a humbucker in series or parallel. In either position there will be no hum, because of the RWRPness (haha Pness)
WTF with your bridge though. Maybe someone fucked with the posts and changed them? It should rock, but not enough to where it sticks to either side when you use the trem... though that latter scenario is fairly uncommon unless your Jag is seriously effed. If you have a Stang bridge also make sure the strings aren't able to buzz against the back of the bridge.
I'd recommend Duncans, like I did in the gear room where no one really cared, check my thread there
Whether pickups are in series (acting as one pickup essentially) or parallel (acting as two seperates), if they're RWRP they should buck hum. Try wiring a humbucker in series or parallel. In either position there will be no hum, because of the RWRPness (haha Pness)
WTF with your bridge though. Maybe someone fucked with the posts and changed them? It should rock, but not enough to where it sticks to either side when you use the trem... though that latter scenario is fairly uncommon unless your Jag is seriously effed. If you have a Stang bridge also make sure the strings aren't able to buzz against the back of the bridge.
I'd recommend Duncans, like I did in the gear room where no one really cared, check my thread there
Cheers man, you've given me a bit of a better understanding of what series/parallel means. I think I may try out some AV pickups then if I decide to keep it. As for the bridge, I don't know. The guy who's Jag it is works in a place where they have people who can fabricate things, so it could be possible he's had some new bridge cups made. I do remember him having the bridge taped up a couple of years ago with green tape so it does seem possible the cups are smaller than they used to be.Jagermeister wrote:series/parallel? how does that have to do with hum cancelling... The stock pickups won't do hum cancelling in any case. They'll cancel hum if they're parallel (ie the stock arrangement) and RWRP (reverse winding reverse polarity) from each other, which Duncans, AV, and vintage pickups are but CIJs aren't.
Whether pickups are in series (acting as one pickup essentially) or parallel (acting as two seperates), if they're RWRP they should buck hum. Try wiring a humbucker in series or parallel. In either position there will be no hum, because of the RWRPness (haha Pness)
WTF with your bridge though. Maybe someone fucked with the posts and changed them? It should rock, but not enough to where it sticks to either side when you use the trem... though that latter scenario is fairly uncommon unless your Jag is seriously effed. If you have a Stang bridge also make sure the strings aren't able to buzz against the back of the bridge.
I'd recommend Duncans, like I did in the gear room where no one really cared, check my thread there
- Fran
- The Curmudgeon
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The bridge should rock about 5mm both ways. They dont always do though, it depends on set up/string gauge. Will it rock if you physically move it with your hand? I once had a bridge and the posts were slightly bent, look for that as that would hinder travel.
Or maybe pull it out as perhaps he has done something not visible.
Basically, dont be afraid of it. If its yours take it to bits or whatever, learn about it, read the stuff on ss wiki, fenderjaguar.net and webrocker.
Imo that is one of the beauty of Fender Jaguars; you have to get personal with it, mess about with its set up and understand it to get the best from it. More so than any other guitar i have owned. Fuck techs they're gay, do it yourself.
Congrats on the Jaggie btw..
Or maybe pull it out as perhaps he has done something not visible.
Basically, dont be afraid of it. If its yours take it to bits or whatever, learn about it, read the stuff on ss wiki, fenderjaguar.net and webrocker.
Imo that is one of the beauty of Fender Jaguars; you have to get personal with it, mess about with its set up and understand it to get the best from it. More so than any other guitar i have owned. Fuck techs they're gay, do it yourself.
Congrats on the Jaggie btw..
I'm in the process of deciding whether I want it or not really. He wants my Squier Tele and a hundred English Pounds. It may be a bit steep considering the condition it's in but I've always gotten on really well with this guitar and in the last few days it's been an absolute cracker, I love it to bits. I've set it up and the trem works great even with a Mustang bridge, I just can't get my head around the tremlock setup at the moment but that'll probably take time.
He got some "pro" to wire in a duncan little 59 and a coil split switch. The "pro" made a fucking complete mess of everything under the pots but luckilly left everything else alone. It'll take me about 10 minutes to re-wire the pots though as they're still fairly close to the diagram, just the "coil split" fucked shit up.
As for the bridge, it doesn't rock even when I move it with my hand.
He got some "pro" to wire in a duncan little 59 and a coil split switch. The "pro" made a fucking complete mess of everything under the pots but luckilly left everything else alone. It'll take me about 10 minutes to re-wire the pots though as they're still fairly close to the diagram, just the "coil split" fucked shit up.
As for the bridge, it doesn't rock even when I move it with my hand.
- Fran
- The Curmudgeon
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Sounds a good deal to me.
The trem will still work okay if the bridge does'nt rock even though it was intended to.
If you look at the trem lock diagram on the wiki you'll work it out in minutes, its quite simple. As for the wiring, its hard to say without seeing it but it could soon be resolved, its not rocket science dude.
The trem will still work okay if the bridge does'nt rock even though it was intended to.
If you look at the trem lock diagram on the wiki you'll work it out in minutes, its quite simple. As for the wiring, its hard to say without seeing it but it could soon be resolved, its not rocket science dude.
I've figured the wiring out now, gonna get to it this weekend. Can't wait to see how it actually sounds, right now I cant even turn the humbucker off, that's how fucked up the "pro" has done it.Fran wrote:Sounds a good deal to me.
The trem will still work okay if the bridge does'nt rock even though it was intended to.
If you look at the trem lock diagram on the wiki you'll work it out in minutes, its quite simple. As for the wiring, its hard to say without seeing it but it could soon be resolved, its not rocket science dude.
I'll look at that diagram too and see if I can figure it out.
UPDATE :
Bridge cups fabricated by Jim (previous owner)
Soldering definitely done by an idiot
I sorted the soldering but the switches seem work backwards for some reason. When they're up, the pickup is on and when they're down the pickup is off. Weird... EDIT : This is the norm isn't it? I'm such an idiot.
I decided I'm gonna take the deal too on this, so I'm back to having myself a nice short scale.
Bridge cups fabricated by Jim (previous owner)
Soldering definitely done by an idiot
I sorted the soldering but the switches seem work backwards for some reason. When they're up, the pickup is on and when they're down the pickup is off. Weird... EDIT : This is the norm isn't it? I'm such an idiot.
I decided I'm gonna take the deal too on this, so I'm back to having myself a nice short scale.