Can this possibly work?????
Moderated By: mods
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I've seen it work in person, it's common sense. I don't know wtf? Aug was talking about as usual.
first Act uses duplicators to make all their Custom Shop necks, since they have several platform models.
first Act uses duplicators to make all their Custom Shop necks, since they have several platform models.
Last edited by jcyphe on Fri Mar 07, 2008 4:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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lol. it was before we had a falling out. He was just not keen on building a DIY duplicator, he said it couldn't possibly be as accurate as a high dollar one.dodgedartdave wrote:I want a duplicator really bad. Aug does too. We are looking into it. He was probably calling you a buttox for different reasons!
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Oh. I don't know about that. We're looking into a duplicator though. We are also looking into building our own also. Are you talking about the thread where Aog went on and on about cold rolled steel? Ya, he was retarded on that one. I told him so also.More Cowbell wrote:lol. it was before we had a falling out. He was just not keen on building a DIY duplicator, he said it couldn't possibly be as accurate as a high dollar one.dodgedartdave wrote:I want a duplicator really bad. Aug does too. We are looking into it. He was probably calling you a buttox for different reasons!
Building tiltback necks is our big issue. We made one and it was way too time taking.....
- robert(original)
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PIN ROUTER@!!!!
i used one of those to get the general shape of the maple plate on the archtop.
yeah it works BUT
what you don;t realize is that it takes TWICE as long for a guitar body.
with the bit that they have on there right now i can garenteee you that body did not come from it.
look, the stylus is the same as the bit, kinda round with a pansy point to it,
you would have to pass MUCH closer than just the size of the bit i bet the accurate depth of that bit pictured is 2 mms wide.
but at any rate, it would take longer, just trust me on this, you would be much better off with a pin router.
those things are good for necks and carved tops tho,
don't get me wrong.
but there is no way in hell you will ever bet abel to convince me that its good for bodys and is some way easier.
i used one of those to get the general shape of the maple plate on the archtop.
yeah it works BUT
what you don;t realize is that it takes TWICE as long for a guitar body.
with the bit that they have on there right now i can garenteee you that body did not come from it.
look, the stylus is the same as the bit, kinda round with a pansy point to it,
you would have to pass MUCH closer than just the size of the bit i bet the accurate depth of that bit pictured is 2 mms wide.
but at any rate, it would take longer, just trust me on this, you would be much better off with a pin router.
those things are good for necks and carved tops tho,
don't get me wrong.
but there is no way in hell you will ever bet abel to convince me that its good for bodys and is some way easier.
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Ya, I agree. With a proper template, routing a body with a table router and plung router is the way to go. With tiltbacks and archtops, a duplicator has gotta be the way to go.robert(original) wrote:PIN ROUTER@!!!!
i used one of those to get the general shape of the maple plate on the archtop.
yeah it works BUT
what you don;t realize is that it takes TWICE as long for a guitar body.
with the bit that they have on there right now i can garenteee you that body did not come from it.
look, the stylus is the same as the bit, kinda round with a pansy point to it,
you would have to pass MUCH closer than just the size of the bit i bet the accurate depth of that bit pictured is 2 mms wide.
but at any rate, it would take longer, just trust me on this, you would be much better off with a pin router.
those things are good for necks and carved tops tho,
don't get me wrong.
but there is no way in hell you will ever bet abel to convince me that its good for bodys and is some way easier.