Guitar cables (mojo alert)

euan · Post by **euan** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:57 pm

I usually get it so both the connects stop at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions of the coil and then put it through the otherside to keep it together. Works for me. On the last large batch of XLR cables I made for Subcity all the cables had velcro ties sown onto them so you no longer need cable ties.

mewithoutus · Post by **mewithoutus** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:24 pm

Mike wrote:
1. Can I repair it? i.e. are the jacks unscrewable

i look for this as well. the ends are just gonna get stressed, it happens. if you can unscrew them and resolder, then the cable will last a long time.

i use a kore one bullet cable. its a white coil cable. its super heavy duty, looks snazzy (well, i think so) and theres no signal loss. sounds nice and clean. well, it doesnt sound like anything, which is the point. ive had it for over a year now with no issues.

kim · Post by **kim** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:38 pm

i remember this thread from orange forum, some dude posting about an exspensive cable test (all sorts of monster cables, fulltone)

the most exspensive one didn't turn out the be the best sounding or longest lasting one i remember

Sloan · Post by **Sloan** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:49 pm

euan wrote:I usually get it so both the connects stop at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions of the coil and then put it through the otherside to keep it together. Works for me. On the last large batch of XLR cables I made for Subcity all the cables had velcro ties sown onto them so you no longer need cable ties.

Oh yeah, where you just snap them together!
I wish they would just maek guitars use XLR so we could do that with guitar shit too. lol.
If I had any money, I would definitely go out and get lots of velcro for my cables, that junk's INVALUBLE.

Sloan · Post by **Sloan** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:52 pm

mewithoutus wrote: i use a kore one bullet cable. its a white coil cable. its super heavy duty, looks snazzy (well, i think so) and theres no signal loss. sounds nice and clean. well, it doesnt sound like anything, which is the point. ive had it for over a year now with no issues.

I've been wanting a good coiled guitar cord for sooooo long!
I had 4 of those Fender California Coils waaaay back in like 2000 or something (came in blue and red), but they all got lost/fucked up. They were only like 3.99 or some shit. Really cheap quality.

Dude, do you has LANK for this cable?
{ EDIT: fond the cables!!! http://www.musiciansfriend.com/navigation?q=coiled&st= / http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/ ... u=330241[b]}[/b]

Sloan · Post by **Sloan** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:01 am

Haha, on a quest for coiled cables, I found this on the WHIRLWIND site:

Keys for Guitar Cords That Sound Best & Survive

1) Braided Copper Shield.
Foil shields are significantly stiffer, making them annoying to performers connected to them and they deteriorate with constant flexing, making them fine for the studio or in a snake, but a time bomb for the guitarist on stage. Shields which are simply spiral wrapped will "spread" when you flex the cable, providing openings for those nasty outside sounds to jump into the guitar signal. The braid is a key issue.

2) Conductive Inner Wrap.
A conductive inner wrap under the shield will increase shielding and also reduce microphonics. This can be harder to spot, but becomes obvious when you smack the cable around. Some cables make a lot of noise when they get tapped. Good ones don't.

3) Low Capacitance.
This will matter with some guitar/pickup/amp combinations, and not with others. If your guitars all have onboard electronics, it shouldn't be an issue. For some of the classics, it's a big deal. So you don't have to think about it, lower capacitance is better. Try to stay under 50pf a foot if you can get the specs on the cable.

4) Strain Relief
A flexible molded boot protecting the last few inches of the cord before it enters the plug. This is a life-expectancy issue. Most cord fatigue takes place at the point where the nice flexible cable enters the hard inflexible plug.
Whirlwind uses a molded boot that tapers down onto the cord to progressively damp the flex. Lots of people use heat shrink, but it's stiffer. Some people don't use anything. When we (at Whirlwind) started using this type of boot on our LeaderÂ® cables, field failures (which were low) dropped a non-subtle 85%.

5) Multiple Copper Stranding
Look for multiple fine copper strands for the inner conductor. These give you flexibility while keeping resistance low. Esoteric audio people may tell you the extra surface area created by fine stranding also helps high frequencies due to "skin effect". They'll probably add that you should use oxygen free" copper for a better sound (actually, "oxygen free" really means "less oxygen", with different OF cables giving you different amounts of Oxygen Freeness). These intriguing possibilities aside, more fine strands for a given inner conductor gauge translates to more suppleness and greater life expectancy on stage.

euan · Post by **euan** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:02 am

Except Neutrik strain relief is balls to the fucking wall.

James · Post by **James** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:06 am

I was considering making this thread myself. Today I got a couple of cables in the post, van damme cable and neutrix connectors. Absolutely brilliant quality and two 3m cables cost me Â£14 after postage. It was from an ebay store who buy the cable and connectors wholesale, make them up and sell them on. I really hate cheap cables, and I also hate Â£80 Monster type cables with all the marketing mojo. The ones I just got were a great price, and I'll get a couple more soon I think. I expect them to last for as long as I'm willing to look after them. I'll get an ebay shop link if anyone is interested.

Post by **Mike** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:39 am

I use the gentle 'knot' approach also. I fold the cable in half several times and just do a gentle knot. In 10 years I've had no issues.

NickS · Post by **NickS** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:48 am

benwalker wrote:I'm waiting on the 1/4" version of >>these<< babies...

Nice one! I got to para 4 before checking the date of the article.

mickie08 · Post by **mickie08** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:58 am

Mike wrote:I use the gentle 'knot' approach also. I fold the cable in half several times and just do a gentle knot. In 10 years I've had no issues.

I used to do this. Now I just have a huge bag of zip ties and I zip tie the shit. (only for my PA cables) All my guitar cables get coiled, velcro'd and set inside my pedal board for safe keeping between uses.

NickS · Post by **NickS** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:20 am

Ah, jeez. Golden ears... Guitar Player cable review

aphasiac · Post by **aphasiac** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:21 am

I cant really get that excited about cables..

That said, i like having funky coloured ones. Cos then they dont get lost or stolen at gigs.

euan · Post by **euan** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:33 am

Klotz LaGrange
With its midrange zing and abundant low-end, the LaGrange is a muscular-sounding cable that melds clarity and string-to-string detail with an impressive punch.

mewithoutus · Post by **mewithoutus** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:38 am

as long as the cables will last a while and dont load my signal, i could care less.

i bought the coil cable cuz i like the look.

NickS · Post by **NickS** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:52 am

euan wrote:Klotz LaGrange
With its midrange zing and abundant low-end, the LaGrange is a muscular-sounding cable that melds clarity and string-to-string detail with an impressive punch.

Midrange zing and abundant low end. Where's the treble? You needz those hollow treble conductors. Possibly filled with denatured H2O

Post by **Doog** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:58 am

Generally anything not too thin or pricey. I think Â£20 is the most I've dropped on a long lead, and have had problems with both not long after. The main leads I use are recycled from old leads and jacks, and are going strong.

Post by **Mike** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:06 am

I pay like Â£10-Â£15 max and they're awesome.

I forgot my other rule:

5. No coils

Post by **Doog** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:09 am

That's a given.

euan · Post by **euan** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:22 am

Especially white coils.

Guitar cables (mojo alert)

What's important in a guitar lead?