Hagstrom Swede Guitar Repair - Need Advice!!!
Moderated By: mods
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So would a fat pat combined with a power/crunchy rails sound good or do you still think it'd be too hot in Mahogany? In terms of the DiMarzio's I also like the DSonic model and it's a bit lower output. Do you think an equivalent GFS and a fat pat would sound better or you think it'd still be too hot? Do GFS even have a comparable model? Thanks Tim.
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Hey, thanks for the link to the truss rod bit. I took a very careful look at my Swede and the truss nut still it there - it's just so small and thin that it's easy to mistake... well and it looks considerably different than standard nuts. That link helped a lot.
In terms of the pickups, the med. output pickups I like a lot were the FRED and the Fat Joe. Any knowledge offhand what would be nearest that GFS has? I'm shooting them a note about it too. Hopefully they won't tell me "crunchy rails" again. Since it's mahogany, you're probably right that it'd end up sounding craptastical with a high output.
In terms of the pickups, the med. output pickups I like a lot were the FRED and the Fat Joe. Any knowledge offhand what would be nearest that GFS has? I'm shooting them a note about it too. Hopefully they won't tell me "crunchy rails" again. Since it's mahogany, you're probably right that it'd end up sounding craptastical with a high output.
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Here are the pics: bridge and pole pics
It doesn't line up right for one and the hole appears to be way too small. I brought it into Guitarcenter and they took a look at it. They pulled down a couple bridges. They said a Les Paul will work, but it needs the right thread for it. I scoured the web, but I couldn't find any places selling screw-in pole pieces like that, let alone ones of that thickness.
The diameter of the bottom of the screws is ~6mm give or take a hair.
A genuine Swede bridge will be significantly more expensive so I would prefer not to have to go that route, but I guess if there's no other options... If possible, I'd like to just do that and get the right size thread for it (so fat on the bottom like that and with the correct top for the les paul).
It doesn't line up right for one and the hole appears to be way too small. I brought it into Guitarcenter and they took a look at it. They pulled down a couple bridges. They said a Les Paul will work, but it needs the right thread for it. I scoured the web, but I couldn't find any places selling screw-in pole pieces like that, let alone ones of that thickness.
The diameter of the bottom of the screws is ~6mm give or take a hair.
A genuine Swede bridge will be significantly more expensive so I would prefer not to have to go that route, but I guess if there's no other options... If possible, I'd like to just do that and get the right size thread for it (so fat on the bottom like that and with the correct top for the les paul).
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Wait, so you're saying the bridge just goes on loose and the string tension is supposed to keep it in place then? I contacted a guy in Sweden who had a bridge that actually screws down (of course several times the price though).
The Swede pics I saw made it look like the bridges were supposed to be screwed down though...
The Swede pics I saw made it look like the bridges were supposed to be screwed down though...
- timhulio
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Not the one on your Swede!
Spot the difference:
1) 1973 Swede, like yours.
http://www.vintage-guitars.se/1973_Hags ... 851193.htm
2) 1978 Swede, like that guy probably has
http://www.vintage-guitars.se/1978_Hags ... 021582.htm
Spot the difference:
1) 1973 Swede, like yours.
http://www.vintage-guitars.se/1973_Hags ... 851193.htm
2) 1978 Swede, like that guy probably has
http://www.vintage-guitars.se/1978_Hags ... 021582.htm
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Ok, so it looks like that actually works that way. I guess I haven't seen an instrument bridge that doesn't screw down since my classic orchestra days in grade school. Now I just need a nut.
I contacted graph tech and they recommended the
pt/pq 6000
pt/pq 6010
nuts.
The actual nut (from the Hagstrom UK forum) was:
Lenght = 42.5 mm
Height = 7 mm (middle) 6mm(Low E) 5.5 mm (High E)
Width = 5.5 mm
E-to-E Spring Spacing = 36 mm
Would that pose a problem because those all are too thin or can I just toss in a spacer in between it and the headstock?
I contacted graph tech and they recommended the
pt/pq 6000
pt/pq 6010
nuts.
The actual nut (from the Hagstrom UK forum) was:
Lenght = 42.5 mm
Height = 7 mm (middle) 6mm(Low E) 5.5 mm (High E)
Width = 5.5 mm
E-to-E Spring Spacing = 36 mm
Would that pose a problem because those all are too thin or can I just toss in a spacer in between it and the headstock?
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You are correct, sir. His is the later version. Interestingly, I had him check the post and spacing and it would fit on the Swede I have, but it's probably not worth 2x the price. According to him, the newer one was used from 1974-1983. So it appears they're interchangeable maybe? Is there any benefit to the newer version over the old bridge?timhulio wrote:Not the one on your Swede!
Spot the difference:
1) 1973 Swede, like yours.
http://www.vintage-guitars.se/1973_Hags ... 851193.htm
2) 1978 Swede, like that guy probably has
http://www.vintage-guitars.se/1978_Hags ... 021582.htm
Thanks for bearing with me on this. Finding unique parts can be a pain and I appreciate all you've done in terms of stearing me in the right direction.
Last edited by guitarister on Thu May 08, 2008 9:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Here's the bridge installed... a little bit ghetto-looking (holes are actually bigger than the nobs, but seems to snap in place anyway)
Is it better for me to try to get a precut for a Gibson or just get one cut for it? How much does it usually cost to have one cut at a shop (haven't needed to before)?
Is it better for me to try to get a precut for a Gibson or just get one cut for it? How much does it usually cost to have one cut at a shop (haven't needed to before)?
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So then maybe a set of Dream180's might be a good choice? People seem to say they're pretty versatile and low-med output. Or maybe one of those and a Fat Paf?
Last edited by guitarister on Sat May 10, 2008 7:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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One other question I had is about the space under the neck. I know people said that Swedes tend to be a little more than normal on neck spacing, but I was wondering if I need to adjust the following or if it'll adjust when I string up the guitar. Normally I would assume that it needs to be tightened more, but I wasn't sure if that's just the way it is with Swedes. I don't want to tighten it if it's already the right position, but if it's off I obv. want to correct it.
The bottom of the neck has a white border so the black between that and the body is the space I'm talking about.
The bottom of the neck has a white border so the black between that and the body is the space I'm talking about.
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What I mean is that I thought you wanted the neck to be flush with the body, but there's actually space between the neck and the body... like a gap where the bottom of the neck normally meets the body. So I wasn't sure if that was the normal distance on Swedes or if it was something I need to adjust. I could probably fit several playing cards underneath it.
What do you think in terms of pickups. Would 2x Dream 180's go well or maybe 2x Fat Paf's or possibly 1 of each?
What do you think in terms of pickups. Would 2x Dream 180's go well or maybe 2x Fat Paf's or possibly 1 of each?