FAO: Sublimedo (Paint Advice)

[ElCapitan]

I'm going to refinish my shit-strat after my exams because i did such a rubbish job last time, any tips on using spray-cans to give a decent finish? I've got to sand down through most of the paint and primer to get rid of the dings and scratches, is it worth using primer and/or grain filler? I was going to use Plastikote Black, how many coats do I need? What clear would work? How do I make sure it doesn't run etc?

the FAO was because I saw you doing a pretty pro looking job on the Malikaster.

[Justin J]

i use sand 'n' sealer and occasionally primer. you don't really need all that much color coat, 1 can oughtta do it. after that you just dump clear coat on. maybe 2+ cans. not sure what's available in the uk, but several companies offer clear lacquer in aerosols out here. check your local hardware store.
spray thin coats to avoid runs and orange peel. if you mess up, you can likely wetsand the mistakes out.

[roachello]

The key to getting a good smooth paint job is to have a good smooth surface to work on. That means make sure you do a good job in the sanding/primering stage. Bad base = bumpy paint surface. When you do paint, don't paint too close to your surface. A distance of around 4-6 inches away from the surface would be good methinks. Spray the edges first to avoid runs later and be patient. First mist the surface very lightly then wait around 2 minutes. The key to preventing runs is simply not to over spray one area and to be patient and wait 5-10 minutes between coats.

[Sublimedo]

Use Transtar Primer/Sealer. Honestly, it's almost like a secret weapon. Sand everything down flat and smooth and apply. Don't worry about runs or build up in the primering stage, just let it dry well. Once it does, and it shouldn't take long, you'll be able to sand it down to a fine powder. Do as MANY coats you need to wear you see the body is smooth and flawless.

Like bubbles said, prevent runs by doing thin coats, but don't be afraid of the appliction lay it on but THIN. Spray cans work great.

I'm not too solid on clear coats though, but I'll get back to you once I'm done with the Malikaster. I've used the fancy stuff and cheap walmart stuff with very similar results.

[DGNR8]

These guys are all correct. Sand well for prep, like to 320 grit, seal it, primer it, sand again, practice shooting even, wet coats without getting too much for drips. Then use your best chops with clears and patiently cover the fucker with a battle proof sheen. Let dry or cure, then use wet/dry sand paper with baby oil starting with 800, 1200, 1500, up to 2000. You may skip a grit once you know what you're doing, but you risk either going too far with a course grit and doing sand-thoughs, or expecting too much with a fine grit and losing patience. After the wet sanding is over, use a non-silicone (real boobs) car polish like Finesse to buff it out. If you don't have a car buffer or drill sponge attachment, roll a strip of tee shirt into a tight wad and burnish as directed. The polish goes on like paste and doesn't look all that great until you buff to the micro level and it suddenly looks factory glass smooth. It is an epiphany,

[ElCapitan]

awesome, I'm gonna have to get down to halfords and pick a ton of shit. what does everyone mean by "seal"? is that a specific product?

[Justin J]

what does everyone mean by "seal"? is that a specific product?

this is what i use. it comes in aerosols and costs about $5 or $6 a can.

[DGNR8]

You seal it so that the grain doesn't sprout hairs and shit. It's how they get the glass finish. It's really just another thin layer.

[ElCapitan]

Thanks again for all the tips. I got a big pack of sandpaper from halfords, going from 40, 80, 120, 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500. I've just finished up sanding away at 40, I'm going to go to go over again with 80 and 120, then I guess I need to find some primer and sealer. Does that sound right?

[Justin J]

you want it to be as smooth as possible. sand up to 320 grit before spraying anything.