Have done- I don't think they made black CIJs Jazzers, and I don't think many people would wanna trade a vintage or US reissue for a CIJ.More Cowbell wrote:WHy not see if someone with a black jazzy, would want to trade bodies with ya? Or put just your white jazzy body on ebay, then buy a black jazzy body?
Okay so I'm totally..
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Black is such a hard colour to paint. That is the only reason I offer you find a already finished body.Doog wrote:Have done- I don't think they made black CIJs Jazzers, and I don't think many people would wanna trade a vintage or US reissue for a CIJ.More Cowbell wrote:WHy not see if someone with a black jazzy, would want to trade bodies with ya? Or put just your white jazzy body on ebay, then buy a black jazzy body?
Aug's job on the Shadmaster showed every flaw, so if he couldn't get it perfect, how could anyone else?
Lulz.. but true enough I guess. If I take my time and do it sober, it should be fine.. I hope?More Cowbell wrote:Black is such a hard colour to paint. That is the only reason I offer you find a already finished body.Doog wrote:Have done- I don't think they made black CIJs Jazzers, and I don't think many people would wanna trade a vintage or US reissue for a CIJ.More Cowbell wrote:WHy not see if someone with a black jazzy, would want to trade bodies with ya? Or put just your white jazzy body on ebay, then buy a black jazzy body?
Aug's job on the Shadmaster showed every flaw, so if he couldn't get it perfect, how could anyone else?
Key point right there.Doog wrote:Lulz.. but true enough I guess. If I take my time and do it sober, it should be fine.. I hope?More Cowbell wrote:Black is such a hard colour to paint. That is the only reason I offer you find a already finished body.Doog wrote: Have done- I don't think they made black CIJs Jazzers, and I don't think many people would wanna trade a vintage or US reissue for a CIJ.
Aug's job on the Shadmaster showed every flaw, so if he couldn't get it perfect, how could anyone else?
Shabba.
Isn't clear the same stuff as the colour cept it has no pigment in? You put the same amount of coats on just alll black instead of any clear.Mike wrote:Clearcoat = Protection from chips.
I don't see why on earth he should half-arse it.
It's not half arseing it.
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Dance music for anxious people
Dance music for anxious people
People only lacquer metallic paint to stop the metal in the finish rusting on cars. me and nickd disscussed this a bit at the Manchester meet.Mike wrote:We're talking a LOT of paint in that case.
If that was true, why would people lacquer cars? Why would lacquer exist?
It definitely makes a difference to the hardiness of a finish. My Duo Sonic project has cans of the stuff on it now, it's thick as all get out.
It also used to be a cost thing I think with fender, clear was less expensive in the bulk amount they bought in, so they put little colour on and built it up with clear. but when at halfords its the same price there's no point really. out of finishes I have clear coated and finishes that I haven't I have not noticed any difference in toughness of the finish.
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Dance music for anxious people
Dance music for anxious people
You shoudl try and get on it soon because the weather will help you out a bit (although it did piss down here yesterday). But I'd say you're looking at something like this....
Day 1
Prep work (probably the longest single session you'll do, it'll take quite a while and you need to be thorough).
Day 2
First coat (light coat of black or primer, I'd say just go straight to black because you have the white on there already)
Give it a few hours then very lightly sand with dry wet/dry paper
Second coat (light coat of black or primer, leave overnight to dry)
Day 3
Third coat (light coat of black)
few hours and sand with wet (always wet from now on)
Fourth coat (black)
Day 5
Fith coat (back)
Day 6
Final coat of black(obviously you'll have to judge if its amply covered, and check for sand-throughs and that)
Day 7
..and god rested
Day 8
sand with wet and a light coat of clear
day 9 & 10
repeat day 8
Give it a day's rest then do another coat of clear
When you're done give it at least a week or two to cure before reassembly
------------
Those times include a fair bit of estimate. With the days with two coats, you'll want to leave at least say 6-8 hours or so just be to sure. You can always check an area under the pickguard to see how dry it actually is, and it will depend on how heavy a coat you do. judging by that I'd say you could do paint it in two weeks, and have it ready to rock in a month.
Day 1
Prep work (probably the longest single session you'll do, it'll take quite a while and you need to be thorough).
Day 2
First coat (light coat of black or primer, I'd say just go straight to black because you have the white on there already)
Give it a few hours then very lightly sand with dry wet/dry paper
Second coat (light coat of black or primer, leave overnight to dry)
Day 3
Third coat (light coat of black)
few hours and sand with wet (always wet from now on)
Fourth coat (black)
Day 5
Fith coat (back)
Day 6
Final coat of black(obviously you'll have to judge if its amply covered, and check for sand-throughs and that)
Day 7
..and god rested
Day 8
sand with wet and a light coat of clear
day 9 & 10
repeat day 8
Give it a day's rest then do another coat of clear
When you're done give it at least a week or two to cure before reassembly
------------
Those times include a fair bit of estimate. With the days with two coats, you'll want to leave at least say 6-8 hours or so just be to sure. You can always check an area under the pickguard to see how dry it actually is, and it will depend on how heavy a coat you do. judging by that I'd say you could do paint it in two weeks, and have it ready to rock in a month.
Shabba.
A lot of places in america are a lot more humid than here, but it can't hurt to try it. I'd defintely spend a little while reading through some reranch articles. It's a fairly simple job, but it's nice to have that bit of extra confidence from hearing a few step by step reports and seeing the pics that go with it.
Shabba.
When you guys say "sanding block", are you talking about those kinda stiff sponge things like:
Or just a wooden block which you can wrap sandpaper around, ala Year 8 CDT?
I do have both, I was just wondering. Although I've only got a few of the spongey jobbers, and they seem like they may be a bit on the rough side, in terms of grade.
Or just a wooden block which you can wrap sandpaper around, ala Year 8 CDT?
I do have both, I was just wondering. Although I've only got a few of the spongey jobbers, and they seem like they may be a bit on the rough side, in terms of grade.
That one you pictured they sell in wilkinsons and s the type i was saying is good for the edges and sides. For the flat surfaces you can use that (you can wrap sandpaper round it) or you can buy one that is roughly the same as that but made of cork (wilko sell those too). They're about £1 each, maybe £1.50 for the cork block.
Although I just re-read your post and you said you have them already. A wooden block is fine too, as long as it doesnt dip in the middle and is totally flat.
Although I just re-read your post and you said you have them already. A wooden block is fine too, as long as it doesnt dip in the middle and is totally flat.
Shabba.
Kinda what Hurb said, you only put clear on metallic finishes on cars (to get the shine, not to stop the metal flakes rusting though) so you only need it on guitars with finishes like LPB or CAR.
The nitro thing is 50% corksniffing mojo bollocks too. Half the 60's fender paints were acrylic, and nitro was shit on cars, what with the crazing and all. Looks cool on guitars though.
You will get just as good a finish on flat colours by not using clear, and it makes it a lot easier to paint, and way way easier to wet and dry and colour polish. Good prep and priming, plus many thin coats is the answer. You don't have to colour sand between every coat either, and you can do a few in a day if you aren't coloursanding - car paint is ready to recoat in 15-30 minutes, you leave a day inbetween if you want to wet and dry between coats.
If you are using nitro, do leave it a couple of weeks before putting it together, that stuff is soft as hell, and don't put it on a rubber stand because certain kinds of rubber eat away at the paint, you will see the result on my Jazzmaster at Doogfest.
Doog- go for a cork sanding block for the flat areas, those soft ones make it very difficult to get even pressure.
The nitro thing is 50% corksniffing mojo bollocks too. Half the 60's fender paints were acrylic, and nitro was shit on cars, what with the crazing and all. Looks cool on guitars though.
You will get just as good a finish on flat colours by not using clear, and it makes it a lot easier to paint, and way way easier to wet and dry and colour polish. Good prep and priming, plus many thin coats is the answer. You don't have to colour sand between every coat either, and you can do a few in a day if you aren't coloursanding - car paint is ready to recoat in 15-30 minutes, you leave a day inbetween if you want to wet and dry between coats.
If you are using nitro, do leave it a couple of weeks before putting it together, that stuff is soft as hell, and don't put it on a rubber stand because certain kinds of rubber eat away at the paint, you will see the result on my Jazzmaster at Doogfest.
Doog- go for a cork sanding block for the flat areas, those soft ones make it very difficult to get even pressure.
What's the benefit of using a cork block over just a wooden block to wrap the sandpaper around?NickD wrote:
Doog- go for a cork sanding block for the flat areas, those soft ones make it very difficult to get even pressure.
Just had a word with Daddydoog and I can use the shed to do the spraying since it's clear, easily emptied and is fairly weatherproof. Just need to put up a load of sheets 'n that.
Thanks for all your help, chaps- much appreciated.