Hiwatt DR504 Custom 50

LimpDickCheney · Post by **LimpDickCheney** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:51 am

I think I want one. Anyone have any experience with this amp?

mezzio13 · Post by **mezzio13** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:53 am

Nope. Want to fix my Carvin some time?

LimpDickCheney · Post by **LimpDickCheney** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:54 am

mezzio13 wrote:Nope. Want to fix my Carvin some time?

I guess it depends on what is wrong with it. X100B?

mezzio13 · Post by **mezzio13** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:02 am

X60B. I don't know. It gets loud then quiet, and then it pops and the tone changes and it gets microphonic. I don't really need it right now, but I don't like keeping junk that's busted. Shit for that matter I have a red knob Fender Champ 12 that quit working all together, that I'd let go for cheap, just to clear room.

LimpDickCheney · Post by **LimpDickCheney** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:11 am

Sounds like tubes to me. Does it do the same thing for both channels (assuming a 2 channel amp)?

mezzio13 · Post by **mezzio13** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:14 am

I can't remember, it's been sitting for a while. The thing was just rebuilt three years ago, but I was suspicious of the guy's workmanship. All of the switch and pot retention nuts were lose. It's making a nice amp stand for my Line 6...

Will · Post by **Will** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:33 am

mezzio13 wrote:Shit for that matter I have a red knob Fender Champ 12 that quit working all together, that I'd let go for cheap, just to clear room.

I'd actually be really interested in this if the price is right. PM?

mezzio13 · Post by **mezzio13** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:47 am

DuoSonicBoy wrote:
mezzio13 wrote:Shit for that matter I have a red knob Fender Champ 12 that quit working all together, that I'd let go for cheap, just to clear room.
I'd actually be really interested in this if the price is right. PM?

I haven't even thought that far. They do a bout $250 on ebay from a quick check, for a working one, haha. Shipping looks to be about $35 or so, so add that to a number, and let me know. I'd also give LDC the first refusal, only because I directed it to him first. I'm guessing he'd not be interested as he didn't say anything about it.

Post by **Mike** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:56 am

Hiwatts are so lovely. The construction is just flawless.

drasp · Post by **drasp** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:05 pm

My #1 amp is an SA112. Do yourself a favor - the #1 rule of entry into the world of HIWATTs is "Do Your Homework!"

Start off at Mark Huss's excellent site, if you haven't already. He even has an old version of 'the HIWATT Story" site hosted for posterity.

Then spend a bit of time reading through stuff at Plexi Palace, where most of the HIWATT nuts hang out (I'm there as well, same username).

Bottom line: there are a LOT of amps out there being sold as "HIWATT", but only some actually are. Judge for yourself, but I think you'll find that to be a HIWATT in the classic sense, the amp should have the following:

1) Partridge Transformers
2) Fane Speakers
3) Mullard Valves

For example, the current "HIWATT" amps being sold in the UK are mostly just cosmetic copies of the original Reeves/Joyce era (pre 1980) amps. They are nowhere near the quality or sonic kick-ass-ish-ness of the originals, have none of the above traits, and cost nearly twice as much as a good, working original. Funny, 'eh?

Also - didja' know that later examples of the Reeves are "Hylight" production actually used high quality printed circuit boards instead of turret board construction? (edit - This is NOT a bad thing!)

I've seen folks drop some SERIOUS $$$$ on amps that turned out to be junk bearing a HIWATT badge, so if I come off a bit strong in the above post it's b/c it sucks to see someone ignore this kind of advice & put up a "NAD" post that makes you feel sick to your stomach!

Post by **Mike** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:08 pm

Oh dear.

You had to go and infer that PCB isn't as good as Turret Board.

They're different production techniques. One is not better than the other.

robroe · Post by **robroe** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:09 pm

casey uses hiwatt. that means they are fucking awesome

drasp · Post by **drasp** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:15 pm

Mike wrote:Oh dear.

You had to go and infer that PCB isn't as good as Turret Board.

Did I? Re-read the post, if you would. I don't think I said anything of the sort. In fact, my intent was to point out that some of the later "Classic" HIWATTs, made while Dave was still alive, were, in fact, made on "high quality PCB", which, as you pointed out, can actually be better than poorly done or poorly constructed turret board manufacture.

My other two amps are both on PCBs and are fantastic. I have absolutely no bias either way, but one of the great "myths" that most folks believe about HIWATTs is that they must be built on turret boards w/ solid core wire bent in pretty 90degree angles. While this is something many folks enjoy, there is nothing wrong with a HIWATT gut-shot that looks like this:

Mike - I know you & I have gotten into it a bit in the past, but I see no reason for you to assume I'm a dummy. . .

Post by **Mike** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:28 pm

drasp wrote:For example, the current "HIWATT" amps being sold in the UK are mostly just cosmetic copies of the original Reeves/Joyce era (pre 1980) amps.
high quality printed circuit boards instead of turret board construction?

junk bearing a HIWATT badge

I think when I read it I pretty much scanned and those three things stuck in my head. After reading properly I see you're not being an arse. Apologies.

drasp · Post by **drasp** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:29 pm

I love you too Mike.

LimpDickCheney · Post by **LimpDickCheney** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:05 pm

I will direct all nominees to this page for Drasp and Mike approval.

LimpDickCheney · Post by **LimpDickCheney** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:12 pm

I will add that I once owned a Sound City 50 Plus, so all of the pieces parts will be familiar to me (Partridge xfrmrs and such). The Sound City was a mess... the wiring wasn't as nice as the Hiwatts I have seen, and they lacked a Master volume.

LimpDickCheney · Post by **LimpDickCheney** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 1:55 am

Got one:
1977 DR103

No tubes. Hopefully everything is functional after I install a new matched quad.

Bacchus · Post by **Bacchus** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 2:39 am

Cool.

Excpept for not having any tubes. That kinda sucks.

drasp · Post by **drasp** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 3:58 am

Ah-hah! Fantastic! Looks pretty un-fukt-with, got it's Partridges, etc. Under $1500 for an original Hylight DR? You done well!

Let us know how it runs. Oh - and it looks like it's got v1-v4 - any chance on Mullard glass?!?!