I've used DIY layout creator to design the PCB layout. This one is based on a point-to-point layout for Harmonic Percolators. I moved some of the traces around to reflect the size of components and figured out how to PCB-mount the pots and switch. This is printed out, then photocopied onto Press-n-Peel Blue.
Degrease and remove any sharp edges from the copper boards. Iron the press-n-peel onto the boards through a piece of plain paper. I count to a minute, moving the iron constantly and applying pressure. Take the hot board with p-n-p still attached and cool it under a tap. Once cold, peel the press-n-peel off. Check for any broken traces. I use an OHP marker to fix stuff.
Etching in ferric chloride takes a while. I'd guess 10-20 mins. You can see it working so there's no real danger of the acid eating away everything in an instant. I've made a double-boiler thing using the frying pan. This is to GENTLY warm the etchant, as it supposedly works at 50 degrees C. Don't evaporate/boil either the water or the etchant bath as this shit is extremely dangerous. Have your extractor fan on and window open if you're stupid enough to do this in your kitchen.
Drill some holes. Component leads are 0.7mm. PCB-mount pots and switch need 1mm holes. These are Green Muff boards.
When ready to populate the board, clean of the press-n-peel residue using fine wet-n-dry (600 grit) and washing-up liquid. These Big Muff boards fit in the MXR-sized box. Score!
Populated, off-board wiring done.
Okay...
Finished
