My Mustang Project (65/66) [now with neck backbow!]

Billy3000 · Post by **Billy3000** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:35 pm

looks nice dude! I used the same paint on the road case that my bass amp is currently residing in.

DGNR8 · Post by **DGNR8** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 3:59 pm

I haven't read the article, but I will.

The main thing I would say is to do it gradually. Loosen the screw until it is free, then tighten it right up to the point where it catches, and then loosen it a quarter turn.

The wood has to adjust itself accordingly. A neck that old is not going to want to be manhandled. I wouldn't steam it or anything because it could cause warp or separation. Let the truss rod do its job first and then see. That's why it's there. If the neck has been off the guitar a while, it may compensate to string pressure over the next six months or so.

Also make sure you have all 4 screws tight. It looks so simple, like you just put the neck on, but every neck and body have minor differences. Check to make sure it is seated properly. Does it need a shim? Is the bridge setup properly? All these things can affect action.

Post by **Mike** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 4:04 pm

That's all great advice. Adjust 1/4 turn at a time with a 24 hour rest in between. Eyeball the neck from both ends. Take your time.

bassintom · Post by **bassintom** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 4:27 pm

letsgocoyote wrote:
the high e is basically coming off the fretboard. not a huge deal. iw as going to try and get jazzmaster saddles, but now i decided i'd just file a new slot in the existing saddle to alter the spacing.

If the high E is off the fretboard check where the low E is.Sometimes it's just a matter of loosening the neck screws and moving the neck a little.I've had situations where I had to open a couple of the screw holes in the body so I could move the neck enough to align the strings.

letsgocoyote · Post by **letsgocoyote** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 6:40 pm

I think you guys may be confused as to what the issue is. It has backbow, not relief. The truss rod is there to add backbow to counteract too much relief form all the string tension. So since the neck already has a bunch of backbow, the truss rod is useless because it can only make hte problem worse. I think the neck may have been off of a body (or stringless at least) for some time to cause this problem. I am going to clamp it up to introduce some relief in it, adjusting it just a fraction of an inch each day for a weekish.... then let it set for another week. we will see what happens

hotrodperlmutter · Post by **hotrodperlmutter** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 6:55 pm

benwalker wrote:

letsgocoyote · Post by **letsgocoyote** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 7:38 am

clamped up. i hope this works. i am concerned about bending it too much/breaking. also worried about not bending it enough, or it not even actually settling in like i want it too

we shall see. i initally clamped it down gently, added a little pressure, and am now clamping it down just 1/4 of a turn a day. for the next few days, then i will leave it for awhile

hotrodperlmutter · Post by **hotrodperlmutter** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 8:10 am

godspeed.

Post by **Mike** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 11:29 am

Indeed. Good luck, for what it's worth I think you're doing exactly the right thing. Take your time and hopefully all will be well.

Thomas · Post by **Thomas** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 12:31 pm

Good luck. I suppose if this doesn't work you could remove the fretboard and plane the neck (with a veneer board it'd mean replacing it). I asked in my local shop/tech yesterday and it seems that is quite a common way to fix backbow (mabye because clamping etc takes more time). It is a helluva lot of work though.

He also told me that one of his customers has had really bad backbow on2 of his Jazzmasters. The techs theory is that it was caused by the wall hangers the guy was using. He said that if the guitar is put to far to the back on them it sits at a slight angle and the weight of the guitar holds it there and the heavy body warps it over time...

He could just be yanking my chain but I thought it was interesting.

letsgocoyote · Post by **letsgocoyote** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 8:15 pm

I feel pretty confident that it can be repaired with this clamping technique, its mostly a question of how much and how long. I figure if I don't clamp it far or lon g enough, i can always try again with more agressive clamping and longer time period. I am moving in a week and a half so i will try and string it up with 12's right before then and see what happens. cuz id prefer to take this guitar with me than anything else, if i can help it. if it doesnt work out i can always try again

Thomas · Post by **Thomas** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 8:21 pm

Fingers crossed it'll work out for you.

DaveB · Post by **DaveB** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:29 pm

I think your truss rod is stuck. It won't release when you back off the nut. I think my Musicmaster is going through the same thing. I wanted to allow some relief. The neck hasn't changed. It's stuck straight right now. I undid the neck and pulled the nut off. Lube it up and reinstalled it. I actually tightened it a bit more to see if it would release. I'm only talking a 1/16 of a turn. These old short scale necks really respond to 1/8 and 1/16 turns. When I released it last time to work on it, I might have released too much too soon. I'll see if I can get it back without resorting to clamping.

DaveB · Post by **DaveB** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 10:00 pm

The internet is an amazing thing!

Don't expect marvels! A guitar neck is (usually) made from wood, which is a natural, living material, so it will take some time for it to get used to its new shape. After you have turned the bolt to its new position, firmly hold the body of your guitar between your knees and firmly hold the headstock (or better, the neck at the first fret) with one hand, and gently try to bend the neck in both directions, holding it in the middle with the other hand (because sometimes the truss rod gets stuck inside the neck).