Mike's Pedal Thread

Post by **Mike** » Thu May 07, 2009 3:37 pm

dub wrote:that is SWEET.

btw I don't need decals or anything. Maybe stick the 'madebymike' on the side or reverse. I like the minimalist look (ie benecol's sweet silver fuzzzzzzzz)

OK, cheers for the heads up, I shall leave it naked as the day I painted it.

Post by **Mike** » Thu May 07, 2009 3:38 pm

dub - Meathead Fuzz
- Â£50 + shipping
- battery power + Â£5
- Silver
- Blue LED
- Bronco Knob
- No Decals on Front, just logo on back.

- will drill case on Monday

Benecol - OsFuzz/GreenRinger
- as payment for drilling guides/decals
- Decal with weird bloke
- 3PDT toggle to switch order

- will drill case on Monday

benecol · Post by **benecol** » Thu May 07, 2009 3:42 pm

... so is my layout OK now? Shall I make a drilling guide?

All of which is far less important than your holiday, have a lovely time.

Post by **Mike** » Thu May 07, 2009 3:44 pm

I will know when I get a toggle to size it with. I'm hoping it will arrive between now and Monday during the day.

I will stick the guide to the case and check everything else looks good, and if the switch doesn't come I'll make an educated guess.

Post by **Hurb** » Thu May 07, 2009 4:52 pm

Mike wrote:
Big Baby Jesus wrote:
Mike wrote:That one there they linked popped into my head. It's properly nutso. Really fucking loud and insane.

There's also another design benecol sent me ages ago which is called the Ultra Lord that I think I'll play around with on breadboard.

As regards the trem, I'm going to be putting a cutdown one in Robert original's shortscale pedal so I will just build another one for you also. It'll be hardwired to squarewave maximum depth and just have a rate knob. does that sond kool?
Sounds well cool! maximum speed on the rate knob if possible?

How does fitting the two fuzzes in one box and a mix knob in the middle so you can mix the two together sound? or is that just not electrically possible?
Yeah I'll make it so the rate knob can get you into mental ring-mod territory.

It's definitely possible to have two fuzzes and a blend between them, I think they wouldn't be independently footswitchable though, because what would happen if you switched Fuzz A on and the blend was all the way at B? Presumably nothing...

cool! I don't want independent fuzzes really. just if all the way right was one fuzz, and all the way left was the other and somewhere in-between is the mixing of the two I don't really know how good that will be or if it will just be a big mess. but its worth a try init?

benecol the fuzz your talking about sounds interesting.I would need to hear it like.

Post by **Mike** » Thu May 07, 2009 6:01 pm

When I have some time I will get the two fuzzes on breadboard and make a demo of them for you. If you like them then I'll start working on a blend. if you don't like the fuzzes we'll try some more ideas.

Post by **Hurb** » Thu May 07, 2009 7:25 pm

Mike wrote:When I have some time I will get the two fuzzes on breadboard and make a demo of them for you. If you like them then I'll start working on a blend. if you don't like the fuzzes we'll try some more ideas.

sounds good mate cheers

Post by **Mike** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:09 pm

Nub and Benecol's cases are drilled and ready for paint tomorrow.

and here is Reece's Saltbooster after I sanded off the finish and refinned it.

luke · Post by **luke** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:13 pm

They're looking much tidier than ever. I really like that look, it works very well, especially the stripe. I don't know what poor paint method you keep using, but the fact it relics so well is AWESOME.

Reece · Post by **Reece** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:15 pm

arghh friday CANNOT COME QUICK ENOUGH.

looks even more awesome all finished up mike.

Post by **Mike** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:17 pm

The stripe didn't come out as well as the first time unfortunately, the edge isn't as crisp. I need to find out when is best to pull the insulation tape off, I think I need to push it down really hard and wait for the stripe colour to completely dry before pulling it. I think.

Anyway I'm quite happy with how it came out decalwise.

The paint method I use is as good as I can do. Rough up the case with sandpaper, prime, paint, paint, decal, clear x2.

The superhardcore finishes are when people powdercoat or bake on finishes. I can do neither, I'm just one guy.

benecol · Post by **benecol** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:19 pm

Suh-weet. I'm very excited about this.

Post by **Mike** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:21 pm

Has anyone noticed the immaculate soldering and wiring work on Reece's pedal. Look at the symmetry of the wire loops and colour selection around the switch.. *kisses fingers*

DanHeron · Post by **DanHeron** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:43 pm

Hey Mike, a quick question..

I'm thinking of making my own pedal soon, and have been looking at diagrams and stuff on tinternet. I found this, and its probably the most easy to follow image I have found:

Can that be made without a PCB? i assume so... but i want to make sure. I doubt i could make my own PCB.

Empires · Post by **Empires** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:59 pm

Mike wrote:bake on finishes

I just bought one of >these< exactly for this purpose.

I'll report back on the success/failure.

Worth considering though.

Haze · Post by **Haze** » Mon May 11, 2009 11:29 pm

Malik wrote:They're looking much tidier than ever. I really like that look, it works very well, especially the stripe. I don't know what poor paint method you keep using, but the fact it relics so well is AWESOME.

indeed i love how my box of rock has agged

DanHeron · Post by **DanHeron** » Mon May 11, 2009 11:38 pm

Mike, where do get your components? I have been searching through the Maplins site and they cant find a few things off this list (relating to the image a couple of posts above):

Resistors:

1 - 33k
1 - 8.2k
1 - 470 ohm
1 - 100k

Potentiometers:

1 - 1k linear
1 - 500k log (audio)

Capacitors:

1 - 2.2uF
1 - 22uF
1 - 0.1uF

Transistors:

For Q1 and Q2, NKT275 or other good germanium transistor of
the PnP Configuration. JD Sleep (www.generalguitargadgets.com)
recommends these other substitutions:

NKT275
AC128
2N508A
2N527
NTE158
NTE126

Reece · Post by **Reece** » Mon May 11, 2009 11:41 pm

don't buy maplin pots.

i bought some and they were absolute toss.

DanHeron · Post by **DanHeron** » Mon May 11, 2009 11:43 pm

Reece wrote:don't buy maplin pots.

i bought some and they were absolute toss.

hmm ok. they don't have all of the resistors either, or the transistors.

I don't know where else to go though, I would prefer not to order online as well. There must be other shops in Manchester selling electrical components

Post by **Mike** » Tue May 12, 2009 7:21 am

DanHeron wrote:Hey Mike, a quick question..

I'm thinking of making my own pedal soon, and have been looking at diagrams and stuff on tinternet. I found this, and its probably the most easy to follow image I have found:

Can that be made without a PCB? i assume so... but i want to make sure. I doubt i could make my own PCB.

You can definitely make it without PCB. You could use Veroboard/Stripboard - I would knock you up a layout no problem, or perfboard where you just make the connections marked on the diagram.

As regards the stuff you want there is no high street store that sells that stuff. You have to go online:

UKwise:
Bitsbox.co.uk has a lot of it, but you won't find the transistors there, you can get AC128s at bowood electronics I believe

Europe: - this is where I shop.
Both musikding.de and banzaieffects.de have everything you need and more. I would use them.

Do you have any soldering experience?