Calling all pedal fixer type blokes. UPDATED: HALP.

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cobascis
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Calling all pedal fixer type blokes. UPDATED: HALP.

Post by cobascis »

I just picked up a beat to shit distortion plus for 35 bucks, its sounds great. Problems: the led is constantly on, when the pedal is on and when it is off. Any pedal buffs know a simple fix? Is it the switch or just some shoddy wiring? Also, I can't open the damn thing. MXR apparently uses screws with SQUARE holes in them as opposed to phillips. W. T. F. Dunno how I can make a screwdriver to open the thing... :evil:

PICS BELOW
Last edited by cobascis on Sun Jan 10, 2010 2:57 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Doog
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Post by Doog »

Are you sure they're not allan key/wrench holes?
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greenweenie
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Post by greenweenie »

I think the screws were replaced. I had a 70s Dist + and I had no problem getting to the battery with a regular screwdriver.
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cobascis
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Post by cobascis »

No, it's actually a SQUARE, I might try my allan wrench set on them when I can find it... but still. Bummer. And it isn't vintage, it has the powersupply bit, I played a vintage one there too, it had real screws but it was 60 bucks and battery only.
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Post by Reece »

you'll need a robertson screwdriver.

usually if you buy one of those screwdrivers with a bunch of interchangeable heads there'll be a couple square ones in there.
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cobascis
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Post by cobascis »

fuuuuuu


I wish I could find something square to open it.

on the plus side, pedal sounds good. I just to need fix the annoying always on led.
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Post by Justin J »

robertson screws are more popular in canada than here in the states. but you can still buy the screwdrivers in most hardware stores.
otherwise just use a flat-head screwdriver and put it in diagonally across the square.
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cobascis
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Post by cobascis »

holy shit. I got it apart. I thought it was filthy on the outside... this pedal has seen it all.

pics to come and maybe you guys can help me fix it.
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cobascis
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Post by cobascis »

Image

Upon opening I found filth n' foam.

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Aw COME ON, $35 for TAPED electronics?

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I dunno if you guys can tell me if this is modded or just shittily repaired, anything helps. and, HOW can I fix the constantly on LED?
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Will
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Post by Will »

Someone very crappily made it true-bypass. They didn't bother to make the LED work right.

Personally, I'd just finish the job. Get a 3PDT, switch the wires over, and use the extra lugs to control the LED.
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Mike
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Post by Mike »

GHETTO

3PDT that thing up. Replace any of those retarded taped wires.
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cobascis
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Post by cobascis »

I have (1) 3DPT coming in the mail but I was going to use it on the Behringer big muff, what sort of switch is used here? looks ordinary
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Post by Mike »

it's a DPDT. If you want true bypass and LED switching, you need a 3PDT unless you want to fuck with Millenium Bypass (you don't)
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Post by cobascis »

Can I pretty easily mod it back it its original state? I'd actually be nice to not have a TB pedal because I don't have any buffers..

I'm an idiot, also - I ordered an Alpha DPDT instead of a 3DPT....
:oops:
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Post by Mike »

I don't know what the stock bypass scheme is I'm afraid.
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Post by Sloan »

LOL @ electrical taep
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cobascis
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Post by cobascis »

wait how could it have been tru bypass modded without the new switch? or is it just a failure?
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Will
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Post by Will »

cobascis wrote:wait how could it have been tru bypass modded without the new switch? or is it just a failure?
You can do true bypass with a DPDT if you don't care about having an LED. If you do, you need the extra pole on the switch to turn it on and off.

There's also a difference between output-only bypass (what the DIST+ is) and buffered bypass (like BOSS pedals). The DIST+ will definitely suck tone if it isn't true-bypass.
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Post by cobascis »

Will wrote:
cobascis wrote:wait how could it have been tru bypass modded without the new switch? or is it just a failure?
You can do true bypass with a DPDT if you don't care about having an LED. If you do, you need the extra pole on the switch to turn it on and off.

There's also a difference between output-only bypass (what the DIST+ is) and buffered bypass (like BOSS pedals). The DIST+ will definitely suck tone if it isn't true-bypass.
Oh, so it IS true bypass at the moment, but without the led (switchable). Huh. And it doesn't have a buffer so when it isn't trubypass it is a no WIN situation. I just removed tape and resoldered some stuff. The idiot cut the wires to short, thats why he had to add the bits, so I just resoldered his work because I have to wire to rewire it.

Anything else I should do while I have my iron out?
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Post by cobascis »

I tidied it up a bit. It is interesting, as you press the switch in the LED gets a lot brighter, and when you take your foot off it goes back to normal. huh.

NEWSFLASH: I was playing it and the LED died after I turned it off and on a few times. LOL.