Restoring a 60's Mustang...
Moderated By: mods
Restoring a 60's Mustang...
I bought a Mustang in parts, I'm missing the electronics (I've purchased some RI pickups) but everything else is present. The neck is a 66 with veneer fretboard, although that is currently still being held hostage at the post office. I'm probably going to have to wait until summer to do the refin, which will be Dakota Red as that's what it was originally.
I have a small problem, the pickguard is 2-3mm too small, which may be due to shrinkage. If I line it up with the neck pocket then there is a gap between the pickguard and the tremolo, the wood around the bridge thimbles is cracked anyway so I propose removing the thimbles, dowelling the holes and drilling them 3mm further towards the neck...this may then create intonation problems if I cannot move the saddles far enough back to make up for the bridge being moved forward. What are yor opinions? The holes near the neck pocket line up, but they go out of line the further back you go.
The only original parts that I do not have are the electronics and neck plate (I bought an aged one without engraved serial number instead).
See crack below and above:
Gap is about the same as between the control plate and pickguard, might look okay when painted:
I have a small problem, the pickguard is 2-3mm too small, which may be due to shrinkage. If I line it up with the neck pocket then there is a gap between the pickguard and the tremolo, the wood around the bridge thimbles is cracked anyway so I propose removing the thimbles, dowelling the holes and drilling them 3mm further towards the neck...this may then create intonation problems if I cannot move the saddles far enough back to make up for the bridge being moved forward. What are yor opinions? The holes near the neck pocket line up, but they go out of line the further back you go.
The only original parts that I do not have are the electronics and neck plate (I bought an aged one without engraved serial number instead).
See crack below and above:
Gap is about the same as between the control plate and pickguard, might look okay when painted:
Are you a Wizard?
Ah, did not realise that the '65's were shrunken around the control plate and tremolo, I thought it was just around the control plate that they had a gap, I guess it'll look fine then. Wish this snow would piss off so I could go and strip the body.Thom wrote:I say leave it. Will look fine when painted - the '65 RIs have got faux shrunken guards and they look hot.
Are you a Wizard?
Defintely leave it.
If you're going for an original-ish look, and I'm guessing you are with an original colour refin, then it will look wrong if you have a guard that fits. If you decide you want the guard to fit like it would have originally, then a new guard is a much better option than moving the bridge.
If you're going for an original-ish look, and I'm guessing you are with an original colour refin, then it will look wrong if you have a guard that fits. If you decide you want the guard to fit like it would have originally, then a new guard is a much better option than moving the bridge.
Shabba.
Shrunk is good. Avoid drilling holes in vintage wood. Some old Strat guys actually look for shrunken guards.
If that finish is just harry homeowner urethane, THE best thing (and quickest) you can do is sand it. I love that stuff. You can even leave some in the pores as filler. Truly. It's not going to kill the tone.
If that finish is just harry homeowner urethane, THE best thing (and quickest) you can do is sand it. I love that stuff. You can even leave some in the pores as filler. Truly. It's not going to kill the tone.
Yell Like Hell
If I don't drill the wood I can't get the pickguard on, the screw holes closest to the bridge are not even close to matching up...DGNR8 wrote:Shrunk is good. Avoid drilling holes in vintage wood. Some old Strat guys actually look for shrunken guards.
If that finish is just harry homeowner urethane, THE best thing (and quickest) you can do is sand it. I love that stuff. You can even leave some in the pores as filler. Truly. It's not going to kill the tone.
Are you a Wizard?
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If the PG covers the old holes I'd just make a couple new holes. It's refinned already.2 screw holes can be filled easily enough.TheBurbz wrote:If I don't drill the wood I can't get the pickguard on, the screw holes closest to the bridge are not even close to matching up...DGNR8 wrote:Shrunk is good. Avoid drilling holes in vintage wood. Some old Strat guys actually look for shrunken guards.
If that finish is just harry homeowner urethane, THE best thing (and quickest) you can do is sand it. I love that stuff. You can even leave some in the pores as filler. Truly. It's not going to kill the tone.
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+1James wrote:Defintely leave it.
If you're going for an original-ish look, and I'm guessing you are with an original colour refin, then it will look wrong if you have a guard that fits. If you decide you want the guard to fit like it would have originally, then a new guard is a much better option than moving the bridge.
It's perfect like that. Gap around the control plate + tremolo plate = HOT.
Gaps are cool mate. As for cracks and that if you refinish it starting with sanding sealer and sanding etc then they will not be visible unless you want them to be. With a vintage rennovation I think it's a tightrope walk between fixing totally broke stuff but retaining the history if that makes sense. As soon as I fix my pc I'll be updating my stang thread which might be useful to you. I'm likely to be refinishing a fellow scalers 66 stang this year too and that will be a thread of some sort - different mine in that he wants it refinished but wants to retain the cracks and dings etc.
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