My EB-0

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sonicmansuperb
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My EB-0

Post by sonicmansuperb »

My bridge posts on it keep coming out of the hole. Would this problem be fixable with wood glue?
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James
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Post by James »

I would make the hole a little tighter. Use a mixture of glue and sawdust (sand some wood if you need to get some) and spread it around the edge of the hole. Do slightly too much, let it set, then tape some sandpaper to a pen to sand the hole back to a curve that's just a little tight for the post. That way you can remove the post with pliers if you need to, but it's secure.
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sonicmansuperb
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Post by sonicmansuperb »

Thanks, I'll try that later
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pumpkin
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Post by pumpkin »

James wrote:I would make the hole a little tighter. Use a mixture of glue and sawdust (sand some wood if you need to get some) and spread it around the edge of the hole. Do slightly too much, let it set, then tape some sandpaper to a pen to sand the hole back to a curve that's just a little tight for the post. That way you can remove the post with pliers if you need to, but it's secure.
I never thought about using sawdust... great idea.
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Dave
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Post by Dave »

Just to quickly harp in on the glue and sawdust thang - it's a sound idea but I've had variable results with 3 different glues. These are my feelings:

Wood Glue = The 'logical' choice in a sense but would not use this for bulking things out or 'load bearing' fixes involving dust - solid wood, yes. My thoughts are that you need something a little more 'dense' and hard than this particular combination and its a little bit of a 'rubbery' feel to sand.

Araldite (two part epoxy) = The drying results can be a little varied from very solid through to slightly spongy (it dpends on how accurate you are on mixing equal portions) Even when hard theough it is not a 'brittle' sanding experience and fights sanding more than other glues which can be problematic if the surrounding is wood. I would use this though for Pickguard cracks mixed with some dust from sanding the guard first.

Super Glue = This I find the best generally as it dries hard and solid enough for sanding (although it does fight back a bit for sure). I've seen it where someone just piles on the dust to a rosewood fretboard and drops the glue onto it which is absorbed through - this is NOT my experience on Maple or Alder - I had to put glue where I wanted it and pat dust onto it, I then repeated this until the required depth was achieved and then sanded once dried.
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pumpkin
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Post by pumpkin »

I'm just wondering out loud here but how do you get the sawbust and glue down the hole without getting it all over the guitar's finish?

I have a strap button that just won't stay in.
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gaybear
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Post by gaybear »

what's wrong with plain old wood filler (not wood glue)?
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Post by paul_ »

Use wood putty. The crumbly kind with solvents in it that looks like a cat food can. Pack it in real tight until it's flush with the guitar's top, then redrill the hole. It's the bee's knees at this kind of stuff. I've used it to change the position of mounting holes on a Fender heel 3 times for 3 different bodies with the holes in different places. Everytime the new holes had to be sort of halfway in the old ones... that stuff holds up great. 2-part epoxy is great for plastics but I've never had it work on wood very well because of the aforementioned gumminess and brittleness issue Black Cat brought up. And super glue is alright for this kind of stuff but it doesn't drill/sand like wood, putty is much closer. I use it to plug any kind of stripped hole in a guitar body or neck.
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