Yeah, call around to the places in the Yellow Pages and see what they can do. Yer best bet are the shops that cater to auto body work. If you've found the color and code, try to determine who the manufacturer is. Most paint brands have cross reference color charts that can match their competitors pretty closely.astro wrote:Cool! Thanks for the info!
I didn't know that color matched aerosols are a common thing. I've never fixed a car, in fact I've never even had a driver's license. I know nothing of cars at all, actually. All I know about car paints is what I've learned from the world of electric guitar. I had assumed that getting custom made aerosols was some kind of fancy thing that only a few people did... hence my assumption that I had to look online. I'll have a look in the yellow pages... I'm actually quite stoked now because now I can avoid shipping/customs/etc hassles!
Mustang Bass: COMPETITION ORANGE! FINISHED!
Moderated By: mods
Life is "Pointless......but manageable"
I bought some paint to match my 2003 truck. Matched perfectly. I would be surprised if you couldn't do the same up there. It was an acrylic lacquer, which is fine. There's also model paint that comes in cans. They called it Grabber ORANGE.
Yell Like Hell
Testors model company is in my home town. I grew up building Testors models and had a few friends work there as we got older :} My dream job would be a 'model master' and build the kits they take pictures of for the covers of the boxes.DGNR8 wrote:There's also model paint that comes in cans. They called it Grabber ORANGE.
Life is "Pointless......but manageable"
I used to build model kits when I was a kid... I remember buying kits at the local pharmacy! Model kits used to be common but I rarely ever see them for sale anymore...rodvonbon wrote:Testors model company is in my home town. I grew up building Testors models and had a few friends work there as we got older :} My dream job would be a 'model master' and build the kits they take pictures of for the covers of the boxes.DGNR8 wrote:There's also model paint that comes in cans. They called it Grabber ORANGE.
What is model paint made out of? I remember it being fragile and scratching easily. Is it suitable for guitars?
The Grabber Orange link just says lacquer, but I would be 99% certain it's acrylic lacquer. All the bottled paints I remember from model building was enamel though.
I would check yer auto paint store first just to get a price, the model paint is 3oz for 4 bucks and Grabber Orange is a Ford color any auto paint store should be able to make. I'm just guessing, but around 16 - 20 bucks a can.
When I was a kid all my models scratched easily too, mostly because I was an impatient kid that painted on to plastic with no prep work and zero time for the glue to dry.
I would check yer auto paint store first just to get a price, the model paint is 3oz for 4 bucks and Grabber Orange is a Ford color any auto paint store should be able to make. I'm just guessing, but around 16 - 20 bucks a can.
When I was a kid all my models scratched easily too, mostly because I was an impatient kid that painted on to plastic with no prep work and zero time for the glue to dry.
Life is "Pointless......but manageable"
Mustang bass: to be Comp Orange!
I was in my local art supply store and I found some "Plutonium G" brand spray paint, I think it's graffiti paint. They had a shade pretty close to Comp Orange so I grabbed a few cans. They were $6 a can, pretty cheap. Says on the label that it's acrylic lacquer. I tested it on the white cardboard keyboard box that came with my Mac. Looks pretty close IRL, the pic below came out a little redder than it looks in reality. Sprays nicely and it's quite opaque, more opaque than the Krylon which I used on the Jazzmaster. So I'm going to try it out. I also grabbed a can of red for the comp stripe. They have like a billion different shades, including many that look similar to the non-metallic Fender custom colours, so if this paint works out it will be a good tool for future projects.
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It was sunny and only -9 degrees today so I took advantage of the rare nice weather to strip the pink off of the body. Thankfully the pink was nitro, so removing it was as easy as wiping it off with a paper towel soaked in acetone. Took about 3 minutes of work.
I was surprised to see the mediocre job that Fender did of matching the ash body pieces on the front. Surprising because the pieces match up really well on the back. Why didn't they just flip the wood block around before making it into a body? Oh well, now I don't feel guilty about covering an ash body with a solid colour!
You can see the remnants of the original sunburst under the pickguard area. I love sunburst mustangs, but seeing as how my paint booth is actually my balcony and my workbench is my dining room table, I think that trying to recreate a sunburst finish would be unrealistic. I'll sand most of it off. The rest of the body has a thin layer of clear urethane, which will only be lightly sanded in order to leave some inside the pores of the grain as a filler.
I was surprised to see the mediocre job that Fender did of matching the ash body pieces on the front. Surprising because the pieces match up really well on the back. Why didn't they just flip the wood block around before making it into a body? Oh well, now I don't feel guilty about covering an ash body with a solid colour!
You can see the remnants of the original sunburst under the pickguard area. I love sunburst mustangs, but seeing as how my paint booth is actually my balcony and my workbench is my dining room table, I think that trying to recreate a sunburst finish would be unrealistic. I'll sand most of it off. The rest of the body has a thin layer of clear urethane, which will only be lightly sanded in order to leave some inside the pores of the grain as a filler.
hmm, I used it on my mustang screws. but they have nearly no chrome (or maybe nickel) left anyway. it cleaned the rust off very well.
I also, used it on the string trees. they look really good now, it didn't eat any of the plating there. I used it on the saddles as well and a couple of them have some slight tinting of metal in some small parts. I'm not sure what's up with that, it's only noticeable if you look really close though.
I would suggest maybe not soaking them overnight then but ether spraying and wiping or letting them soak just for a few minutes. I think they would be fine this way.
I also, used it on the string trees. they look really good now, it didn't eat any of the plating there. I used it on the saddles as well and a couple of them have some slight tinting of metal in some small parts. I'm not sure what's up with that, it's only noticeable if you look really close though.
I would suggest maybe not soaking them overnight then but ether spraying and wiping or letting them soak just for a few minutes. I think they would be fine this way.
cogito ergo sum...thing or other...
Yeah, I guess there plating is already gone from my screws since they're covered in rust!mage wrote:hmm, I used it on my mustang screws. but they have nearly no chrome (or maybe nickel) left anyway. it cleaned the rust off very well.
I also, used it on the string trees. they look really good now, it didn't eat any of the plating there. I used it on the saddles as well and a couple of them have some slight tinting of metal in some small parts. I'm not sure what's up with that, it's only noticeable if you look really close though.
I would suggest maybe not soaking them overnight then but ether spraying and wiping or letting them soak just for a few minutes. I think they would be fine this way.
Not sure what to use for the saddles... I'm pretty sure they're chrome plated brass and I know that CLR will dissolve brass. Anybody ever tried silverware/metal polish like Brasso or Silvo?
I have lighter fluid, but I'm not sure if I have any 3-1 oil in the house... If I find it I'll try it and post results. I'm not familiar with Nevr-Dull, perhaps it's not available in Canada?TieDye wrote:Okay, please try this cuz I am a guitar tech and I do know what works best here. Mix a solution of half lighter fluid and half 3-in-1 oil. Soak the parts overnite. The rust will be gone. If you wish to polish the parts, use Nevr-Dull.
Edit: found the 3-1 oil. I mixed the cocktail and now the screws and bridge saddles are soaking in it. I will check tomorrow.
The 3-in-1/lighter fluid mix got most of the oxidation off, or at least loosened it enough that it comes off with a bit of scrubbing with an old toothbrush. Thanks, TieDye!
New problem: one of the bridge saddles has the two height adjustment screws frozen in place. I've soaked the piece in PB Blaster for the past 2 hour but the height adjustment screws still won't budge. If I force I can feel the screwdriver bend, so I'm not going to force any further! Anyone have any ideas?
New problem: one of the bridge saddles has the two height adjustment screws frozen in place. I've soaked the piece in PB Blaster for the past 2 hour but the height adjustment screws still won't budge. If I force I can feel the screwdriver bend, so I'm not going to force any further! Anyone have any ideas?