I don't have a clue of the going rates but that seems beyond high. That seems like taking the piss.
Fixing the Musicmaster Bass Amp
Moderated By: mods
- taylornutt
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- Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:04 pm
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Thank, that gives me an idea of what is should cost. My MMB shouldn't be anywhere as expensive to fix as your bassman if it's just caps.cobascis wrote:That is retarded. I got my bassman fully recapped, new power tubes, and biased, along with a general cleaning, servicing for 140.
J Mascis Jazzmaster | AVRI Jaguar | Tuxedo-stang |Fender Toronado GT |
Squier FSR Sparkle Jaguar | Squier CV Mustang |1971 Fender Bronco| Baja Telecaster |
Squier FSR Sparkle Jaguar | Squier CV Mustang |1971 Fender Bronco| Baja Telecaster |
The codes on the caps suggest they were manufactured 1973/74. I have some that age that still work OK, others started spewing a while ago.
Those pale-coloured (metal film) resistors on the input are modifications, so I suspect they're set up to allow different sensitivities on the two inputs.
Crackling/popping can be down to the tubes - I replaced all the smoothing caps in my son's 10-year-old Marshall TSL because it was doing that, made no difference. Then he forked out for some tubes - problem solved.
Meaasuring the state of the caps can only really done with an ESR (effective series resistance) meter. If you have an LCR function on your DMM you may get a clue about whether they're still within tolerance for value, but not whether they're causing noise. You could check that by substituting one at a time (lift one end, tack new cap across).
Those pale-coloured (metal film) resistors on the input are modifications, so I suspect they're set up to allow different sensitivities on the two inputs.
Crackling/popping can be down to the tubes - I replaced all the smoothing caps in my son's 10-year-old Marshall TSL because it was doing that, made no difference. Then he forked out for some tubes - problem solved.
Meaasuring the state of the caps can only really done with an ESR (effective series resistance) meter. If you have an LCR function on your DMM you may get a clue about whether they're still within tolerance for value, but not whether they're causing noise. You could check that by substituting one at a time (lift one end, tack new cap across).
- taylornutt
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- Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:04 pm
- Location: Dallas, TX
None of mine are spewing anything. Doesn't mean they are not bad, but maybe I should replace tubes and look at the power chord first. It has a 3 prong power cord, but its kinda rough and doesn't plug in smoothly. I wonder if the ground post might be loose. Tubes and a new power chord would be easy fixes and then I could move on to more complicated stuff.NickS wrote:The codes on the caps suggest they were manufactured 1973/74. I have some that age that still work OK, others started spewing a while ago.
Those pale-coloured (metal film) resistors on the input are modifications, so I suspect they're set up to allow different sensitivities on the two inputs.
Crackling/popping can be down to the tubes - I replaced all the smoothing caps in my son's 10-year-old Marshall TSL because it was doing that, made no difference. Then he forked out for some tubes - problem solved.
Meaasuring the state of the caps can only really done with an ESR (effective series resistance) meter. If you have an LCR function on your DMM you may get a clue about whether they're still within tolerance for value, but not whether they're causing noise. You could check that by substituting one at a time (lift one end, tack new cap across).
Do amps require a special power cord or will any 3 prong cord do? I saw one at Home Depot for rewiring a power tool that would probably work fine.
J Mascis Jazzmaster | AVRI Jaguar | Tuxedo-stang |Fender Toronado GT |
Squier FSR Sparkle Jaguar | Squier CV Mustang |1971 Fender Bronco| Baja Telecaster |
Squier FSR Sparkle Jaguar | Squier CV Mustang |1971 Fender Bronco| Baja Telecaster |
- plesiosaurus
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- taylornutt
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- Posts: 4908
- Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:04 pm
- Location: Dallas, TX