The Billy1802t
Moderated By: mods
- laterallateral
- Traynor or Death
- Posts: 5950
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 12:15 am
- Location: Montery Howl
Thanks!
I wouldn't touch it untill you've let the thing cure for a week.
I started bolting things on the Hagstrom way too early and fucked up the finish pretty bad.
I'm going to have to do it all over again, sometime.
It's so hard to resist, though.
I wouldn't touch it untill you've let the thing cure for a week.
I started bolting things on the Hagstrom way too early and fucked up the finish pretty bad.
I'm going to have to do it all over again, sometime.
It's so hard to resist, though.
Last edited by laterallateral on Fri Sep 19, 2014 3:05 pm; edited 115,726 times in total
"Home Depot Sign" lmao, your wife sounds like she's related to mine
If you got lots of "ORANGE peel"
you may want to start at 320 wetsanding... if it's under control you can start at 400 - 600 grits. I stop at 1500, but you can get up to 2000. I use water (you can add some dish soap), as long as you plug all the screw holes & all the cavities are sealed, otherwise the wood will swell and crack the finish around the holes. Other guys use baby oil or odorless mineral spirits. I use the black rubber block sander from Home Depot, they work great. Try to use a block as much as you can, but certain area's you just may have to use your hands. When sanding & buffing, remember paint is always the thinnest on the edge of the guitar so try not to over do those area's or you'll get a "burn thourgh".
The longer you wait for the finish to cure, the harder it is... the better results you get. I'd imagine a week on poly should be fine. I prefer "nitrocellulose lacquer" to hang for 30 days.
I use my air compressor & 6" random orbitable sander w/ buffing pads on it for buffing. For the sides & belly contour your better off going to the auto store and buying a $20 cone buffer attachment you can use on a drill press (make sure you cover the metal pole with towels, in case the guitar gets thrown) or drill. I use StewMac rubbing compound, I've got 3 grits. ReRanch forum can recommend auto store buffing compound that's more readily available for you locally. I smear a shitload of compound on the pad & guitar... the pad can be really dry at first so I spray a mist of water on it till it's just moist enough. As I'm winding down buffing on one grit of compound, I start spraying more and more water.... thinning out the compound so it's really wet. I guess, I think it helps to transition from one grit to another easier... it makes the compound finer.
By the time you get to the last grit of compound, start wiping the guitar down good. Hold it up to the light and try to find any scratches you couldn't see before and correct em by going back over it with rough grit compound. After all the rubbing compound is used, I use StewMac Swirl Remover. Then spray & polish up with flannel & Martins Guitar Polish.
I've read ReRanch & other finishing articles... and everyone is different. You just gotta find what works for you.
If you got lots of "ORANGE peel"

The longer you wait for the finish to cure, the harder it is... the better results you get. I'd imagine a week on poly should be fine. I prefer "nitrocellulose lacquer" to hang for 30 days.
I use my air compressor & 6" random orbitable sander w/ buffing pads on it for buffing. For the sides & belly contour your better off going to the auto store and buying a $20 cone buffer attachment you can use on a drill press (make sure you cover the metal pole with towels, in case the guitar gets thrown) or drill. I use StewMac rubbing compound, I've got 3 grits. ReRanch forum can recommend auto store buffing compound that's more readily available for you locally. I smear a shitload of compound on the pad & guitar... the pad can be really dry at first so I spray a mist of water on it till it's just moist enough. As I'm winding down buffing on one grit of compound, I start spraying more and more water.... thinning out the compound so it's really wet. I guess, I think it helps to transition from one grit to another easier... it makes the compound finer.
By the time you get to the last grit of compound, start wiping the guitar down good. Hold it up to the light and try to find any scratches you couldn't see before and correct em by going back over it with rough grit compound. After all the rubbing compound is used, I use StewMac Swirl Remover. Then spray & polish up with flannel & Martins Guitar Polish.
I've read ReRanch & other finishing articles... and everyone is different. You just gotta find what works for you.
- hotrodperlmutter
- crescent fresh
- Posts: 16665
- Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 10:29 pm
- Location: Overland Park, KS, USA
Yes, I got it out. I kept buffing with 2000 grit until it was gone. But the print had gone down the the wood so I had to hit it with a dusting of the spray base coat. Then I I put some more clear coat on.Joey wrote:Looking good. You got me wanting a orange compstang...![]()
We you able to get thumb print out with the acrylic lacquer gloss?
I have let it dry for a while. Then, some how, put a big old scratch in it that was down to bare wood. Don't know where that came from but no one in my family owned it. So it must have been the Knob Creek. So I fixed that. Then went from 800 through the grits to 2000 wet sanding. For fun I hit it with 3M glaze compound and took a picture. I am going to let it sit for another week and then use my 3M rubbing compound and then several glaze coats. Then finish it off with a wax or polymer sealant. So the posting will be dormant for a while.

Billy, if you make it home for a visit this summer I insist you stop by for a beer and inspection. I have had a lot of fun with this project so far, thanks for giving me a shot at it.

Billy, if you make it home for a visit this summer I insist you stop by for a beer and inspection. I have had a lot of fun with this project so far, thanks for giving me a shot at it.
- hotrodperlmutter
- crescent fresh
- Posts: 16665
- Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 10:29 pm
- Location: Overland Park, KS, USA
- hotrodperlmutter
- crescent fresh
- Posts: 16665
- Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 10:29 pm
- Location: Overland Park, KS, USA
- laterallateral
- Traynor or Death
- Posts: 5950
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 12:15 am
- Location: Montery Howl
It's like a Jag trem with a bridge built in. They were on a couple styles of Japanese guitars built in the early 70's i think. The trem really ties together the look of the guitar.Delirium wrote:Whoa, that thing looks wicked! What kind of trem is on it? Never seen one like that before.
Kinda reminds me of the Lead II Strat with that pickguard.

- Narco Martenot
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- JohnnyTheBoy
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