Halfords acrylic laquer: a clear(coat) & present danger?

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Doog
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Halfords acrylic laquer: a clear(coat) & present danger?

Post by Doog »

Has anyone used Halfords own brand clear lacquer for a refin job?

I'm looking at picking up spray primer and paint tomorrow from Halfords and figured I'd get the clear coat while I'm there. I've read generally good comments from people using it for home refins with reasonable results, but have also read a few horror stories, of the finish reacting with gig bags, sofas or fabric and falling off the guitar.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165495

Cheap and reasonably fast-curing are the keywords here, so I'm not going anywhere near nitro. Plus, I gather than the Fender-style polyurethane finishes involve extra chemicals and catalysts; not something doable with one rattle can.

Any experience, guyzzzzz? Thanks!
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Post by othomas2 »

I used it to spray a few bikes... was alright from what I remember. Seemed to run out quite quickly though. Can't comment on the guitar front.

Those guys who had probs with gig bags sofas etc probably hadn't left it to cure properly. Also over spraying and not letting the in between coats dry long enough. Lots of thin coats is the answer, and a good preparation and a good prime. But I think you know all this....
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Post by James »

I've used the colour. It takes a long, long time to cure. Maybe on cars it doesn't but on wood it certainly does.
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Post by benecol »

I've done a refin using Halfords primer, paint and lacquer with no ill effects whatsoever.
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Post by Hurb »

took ages to cure when I last used it which was a long time ago. infact I don't think it ever really cured nicely. the nitro I got was much better. things ma have changed though.
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Post by Doog »

benecol wrote:I've done a refin using Halfords primer, paint and lacquer with no ill effects whatsoever.
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pfthhahahahhaha

Cheers guys, I think I'll maybe give the Halfords stuff a bash just for the sake of moneez and see how it pans out. I'll be leaving the body to cure here at my rents, so there's no danger of me cracking and putting it all together too early.
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Post by Mike »

I use it on my pedals and it works a treat.

Used it on my Duo Sonic and I think it came out great. It took a fair while though (but summer is the time to do it!) and a few cans. I reckon you need about 4 cans, and spray coats over 4 days every hour or so, hanging the body up. Then leave for like a month or two before you're ready to rock.
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Post by Addam »

I think the trick to using acrylic is not to use directly onto the wood.
Use cellulose or shellac sanding sealer then the colour.
I wasted months and about £95 on painting a kit telecaster. It turned out shit, used hellfrauds clear on the neck and it stayed sticky forever, picking chunks off it's wall hanger on a daily basis.
I would reccommend using behlen nitro clear on top, it's only like £7.50 a tin anyway.
Last edited by Addam on Tue May 31, 2011 7:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by ekwatts »

What about Plasti-Kote? I was intending on using that at some point considering I have 3 cans of the acrylic gloss super clear already.
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Post by Doog »

SO MANY CONFLICTING ACCOUNTS D:
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Post by Doog »

AddamInsane wrote:I think the trick to using acrylic is not to use directly onto the wood. Use cellulose or shellac sanding sealer then the colour. I wasted months and about £95 on painting a kit telecaster. It turned out shit, used hellfrauds clear on the neck and it stayed sticky forever, picking chunks off it's wall hanger on a daily basis. I would reccommend using behlen nitro clear on top, it's only like £7.50 a tin anyway.
Well, I was going to use the Halfords white primer, but that's acrylic-based.

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Post by Addam »

Are you painting bare wood? Sand it sooth, fill the grain. I used cheap wood filler on the last 2 and was seriously impressed. Sand it smooth again. Seal it, and you can paint it with whatever. Get it smooth first and you wont need to worry about sanding through the sealer. Focus sell french polish, which I think is just shellac with colouring, that would be better than nothing. A real sanding sealer would be better insurance against sand through though.
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Post by Dave »

Use jizz.
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Post by ekwatts »

Dave wrote:Use jizz.
Schlomp, schlomp gurk, halp, schlomp grk haagggggllle shlomp.

That's the sound of you, choking on a cock.

Seriously though, would this work alright?

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Post by Dave »

Alternatively polyurethane laqueur for boats worked well on a Squier repair job, cures fast, and dried harder than Watt's Weiner at a Babylon 5 cosplay convention. As I say it was some sort Yacht lacquer my dad had but I can't imagine its much different than any other poly laqueur like wot Plasti-Cote do... So yeah, Poly, like wot's on most guitars!
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iCEByTes wrote:Blunt a joint , Take the Touch , Listen this.
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Post by benecol »

ekwatts wrote:What about Plasti-Kote? I was intending on using that at some point considering I have 3 cans of the acrylic gloss super clear already.
Niet - brittle as fuck: fella at work used it on a pedal (which gets far less grief than a guitar body) and it fell off in no time.
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Post by Dave »

benecol wrote:
ekwatts wrote:What about Plasti-Kote? I was intending on using that at some point considering I have 3 cans of the acrylic gloss super clear already.
Niet - brittle as fuck: fella at work used it on a pedal (which gets far less grief than a guitar body) and it fell off in no time.
Perhaps over a whole guitar it may well be - works well for spot repair nonetheless. Is the guitar type different formulation to common spray poly? It's used on Boats and Yachts (the type I'm talking about anyway).
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Post by benecol »

Don't know - this was craft shop/B&Q stuff.
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Post by ekwatts »

Well, fuck. Works alright on my Space Marines.
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Post by Dave »

ekwatts wrote:Well, fuck. Works alright on my Space Marines.
See Benecol?! It can survive the rigours of a dark and warlike future!

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