Mustang w/ Esquire wiring ?

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Wed Oct 12, 2011 8:26 am

It might sound strange (or maybe crazy) but I wanna try to wire my Mustang
as an Esquire. So, get rid of the neck PU and only play the bridge PU (now a JB).

Would like to use GM Arts wiring:
(http://www.jag-stang.com/wp-content/upl ... ematic.gif)

BUT for the switch 1, I was thinking about this selection option:

- split humbucker
- off
- bridge (normal humbucker)

Switch 2 remains as in the diagram.

Can any of you wiring experts help me out how to achive this ?
(if not thanks anyway)

Pens · Post by **Pens** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 4:02 pm

You might want to consider doing it as series/parallel for the humbucker rather than splitting it. In parallel, the two coils of a humb will be pretty close to a normal single coil, where a coil split is going to net you a lower resistance and sound far weaker than a normal single coil. Series/parallel for the Stang are out there already, which is another reason I'd recommend that over doing a split.

honeyiscool · Post by **honeyiscool** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 6:53 pm

I also recommend a parallel and series switch over a split switch. It's a lot harder to wire but it is much more useful. You get hum cancellation and relatively good twang with a parallel humbucker. That said, split has slightly more snarl, but it's not worth it as it has verry little warmth. I have three-way switches on my Jagmaster for the two pickups and I usually end up leaving on parallel.

bradzeera · Post by **bradzeera** » Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:53 pm

This is what I suggest.

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Mon Oct 17, 2011 6:53 am

All these explanations in favor of the series/parallel seem very reasonable.
So I'll go for that instead of the split option.

Should I just wire it then as in the diagram ?

Still going to get rid of the neck PU due to gain of sustain and
more open sound when there's less magnetic pull on the strings.

(experienced this with a tele converted into an esquire , so wanna try it with this Mustang).

Thanks for everyone's advice

Pens · Post by **Pens** » Mon Oct 17, 2011 2:40 pm

You can use just the one switch on this diagram

From RVBs post in this thread.

There's some other options shown in that thread as well. If you go with the above diagram, you just want to use the second switch on that diagram and use the green line as your hot. That also gives you series/parallel/split if you want to try them all out, but there's no "off" in that setup.

Going back to your original post, I'm not sure why you'd want the OFF option for this switch since you already have that with the second switch that you are going to keep (if I'm reading that correctly).

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 7:23 am

Thanks Pens for that diagram : )

Well, you're right about the middle position of switch 1 ('off') in the 1st diagram
'cause since there's no neck PU I'll don't need the PU-selector option of this switch.

I'll certainly want to have a bypass selection in one of my options.

So maybe I should go for:

switch 1
- bypass
- off
- on (so bridge PU)

and switch 2 (like on the diagram you've posted above)
- split
- series
- parallel

Is it possible to wire it like this ???

That 'll give me all the options for the 1 humbucker PU and more then there's in the original wiring

Thanks again for your efforts

Pens · Post by **Pens** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 7:08 pm

Yes, that would be possible. If I get time I could try to draw up a diagram, though I have a lot going on right now. Maybe someone else will be along to make that diagram before I can get to it.

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 11:51 pm

I'm in a bit of a rush, which is why this looks like it was done in crayon.

Leftmost switch:
- split (to slug coil)
- series
- parallel

Rightmost switch:
- bypass
- off
- on (with volume and tone)

Black wire going off the right is going to the tip ("hot") lug of the jack.

Ground the pots/everything properly; I left that part out.

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 7:06 am

Thanks for that diagram Grant. Looks great
Gonna wire it like that in the weekend (If I find the time)

brainfur · Post by **brainfur** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 4:20 pm

i think an esquired mustang would be super fun. i did a bad job of p-shopping but in my imagination it would look like this:

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 12:54 pm

Grant, I've been overlooking the diagram but If you've find the time can you
draw a full diagram with the grounding of the caps and so on,
'cause otherwise I'm certainly gonna screw things up
(though I can do my soldering, I'm technically kinda dumb

...)

brainfur, looks nice but due to (personal) economical crisis issue's, I think I'll just remove the neck PU out of the cover
and leave it as is for the moment.

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:33 am

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:40 am

Grant, your excellent.
Gonna wire it this weekend or as soon as possible (wife/child may cause some delay).
I think this is gonna give me a wide range of sound options.
Thank you very much for the diagram.
Really appreciate it

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:50 am

No problem. Let me know how it works!

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 10:43 am

I wired it yesterday like on the diagram, hardest thing was to get all those wires in the cavaties
but it didn't work = no sound in any position...(could be a mistake by me, don't know)

Then I wired wanted to wire it like the GM Arts wiring (link in my first post)
but didn't do it

'cause I couldn't figure out where those connection on the side of the switches should go ???
(see on pic below)

edit: Just read something about acid flux: should It be connected to the middle 'lip' with acid flux first ?
(just soldering didn't hold)