http://www.guitarfetish.com/Roller-Brid ... p_661.html
Would the posts line up to fit the Mustang bridge?
Would one of these fit my Jagstang?
Moderated By: mods
GotohDGNR8 wrote:I don't remember what TOMs fit on.
http://www.jag-stang.com/guitars/the-tu ... ic-bridge/
but i real don´t understand why people hate mustang bridge that much , after fine adjustment is so stable
Precise dwarf bravery
Re: Would one of these fit my Jagstang?
I have these exact bridges on two guitars (CP Jag and CP Jazz) and would be happy to take any measurements you may want.h8mtv wrote:http://www.guitarfetish.com/Roller-Brid ... p_661.html
Would the posts line up to fit the Mustang bridge?
The Epiphone style large-post TOMs will drop into the bridge cups for Jazzmasters, Jaguars and Stangs. You will not have height adjustability but odds are it will be too high, necessitating little more than a neck shim to make this set-up work. I used one on my Jaguar for years without altering anything else, the action happened to be ok... on my Jag-Stang I would've had to shim the fuck outta the neck, it was like half an inch off.
Filling and drilling seems not worth it at all now that the Squier, CP, Mascis and Cobain guitars are out. They seem reluctant to make an affordable offset or shortscale with the proper bridge anymore, so I'd leave the traditionally spec'd/pricier ones as is and get the guitar you're happy with now that we're spoiled for choice.
I think discrepancies between radius and pole-piece alignment tend to get overblown. It's really not a big deal.
Filling and drilling seems not worth it at all now that the Squier, CP, Mascis and Cobain guitars are out. They seem reluctant to make an affordable offset or shortscale with the proper bridge anymore, so I'd leave the traditionally spec'd/pricier ones as is and get the guitar you're happy with now that we're spoiled for choice.
I think discrepancies between radius and pole-piece alignment tend to get overblown. It's really not a big deal.
Last edited by paul_ on Fri Jan 27, 2012 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Aug wrote:which one of you bastards sent me an ebay question asking if you can get teh kurdtz with that 64 mustang?
robertOG wrote:fran & paul are some of the original gangstas of the JS days when you'd have to say "phuck"
It's about 2.925" or 74.3mm. The right arm of the caliper is truly over the center, it just doesn't look it thanks to the angle and resulting parallax error.
It actually specifies this on the GFS product page linked above, but I figured I'd give you the hard facts.
The posts are threaded identically to the Fender AOM screw-in posts.
It actually specifies this on the GFS product page linked above, but I figured I'd give you the hard facts.
The posts are threaded identically to the Fender AOM screw-in posts.
Shit, and that's not even what you asked. I am an idiot and will measure what you actually asked for in a moment.
They're exactly .400" (10.16mm) apart on center, with the distance between the outside ones being obviously 2.000" (50.8mm).
I'm assuming that's what you're asking, despite not having heard "pole piece" outside the context of a pickup. And yes, what paul said about critical alignment of such things not being so critical.
It's been a long day. Time to go home.
They're exactly .400" (10.16mm) apart on center, with the distance between the outside ones being obviously 2.000" (50.8mm).
I'm assuming that's what you're asking, despite not having heard "pole piece" outside the context of a pickup. And yes, what paul said about critical alignment of such things not being so critical.
It's been a long day. Time to go home.
I shaved TOM like Paul said. I had posted this on JS board some time ago... copy-n-paste
I shaved the bottom of my Modern TOM with a belt sander, probably took at least an 1/8" off the bottom of the bridge. I stopped grinding it down when I just about got into the saddle slot route. The treble/bass side post were sticking up to high after I shaved the bridge, so I took a hacksaw, and made the flathead screwdriver notches in the post deeper. Then trimmed the post flush to the bridge top.
When I had originally installed the Modern TOM, I shimmed the neck up to compensate... cause the bridge couldn't drop low enough.
I had to take my JS apart to repair my toggle switch, so I went ahead and reset the whole guitar up... saw the shims and figured I'd shave the bridge, since I recall someone mentioning they had done the same. Maybe if I get bored again, I'll radius the TOM to match my fretboard
nah...
The Modern Tune-o-matic bottom is arched, where the post meet the bridge is countersunk. I used a hand held belt sander, 80 grit, mounted the sander in a vise upside down and set the trigger lock (hands free). I wrapped the bridge in 4 layers of masking tape, to act as a heat shield. But after 2-3 minutes of grinding, it's becomes unbearable hot and I have to stop, let it cool off then proceed.
The belt sander has a flat metal plate where the paper runs over, so I use that flat spot... this way I know I'm not taking to much of one side. I use my bare hands so I can apply equal pressure, every few seconds I spin the bridge around to ensure I'm grinding it down equally on all sides.
I shave it down until I can barely see the saddle route. You can barely see a square in this photo to the right of the post hole, it's faint.
I got caught sleeping on this one. You can see the saddle route better on this side.
Bridge is shaved, but now the post stick out the top of the bridge. I would shave the post, but the notches are not deep enough. So I use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to deepen the slots, it takes 3 seconds. Now I wrap the post up in tape, and shave it down to size on the belt sander. Removing the chrome plating uncovers a softer metal, with a copper tone to it. Be careful when adjusting the action, use a large enough screwdriver so you don't mar the slots.
Before shaving, my bridge was set flush against the plate. Now the treble side has to come up a hair and the bass side actually has to be off the plate. Now I just need to make a radius gauge and match the bridge/fretboard radius... but not today. Total time was around 2 - 3 hours. I suppose if I filled a cup up with naphtha (lighter fluid) and threw the hot bridge into it to cool off, I could of done this in 30 minutes or less.
I shaved the bottom of my Modern TOM with a belt sander, probably took at least an 1/8" off the bottom of the bridge. I stopped grinding it down when I just about got into the saddle slot route. The treble/bass side post were sticking up to high after I shaved the bridge, so I took a hacksaw, and made the flathead screwdriver notches in the post deeper. Then trimmed the post flush to the bridge top.
When I had originally installed the Modern TOM, I shimmed the neck up to compensate... cause the bridge couldn't drop low enough.
I had to take my JS apart to repair my toggle switch, so I went ahead and reset the whole guitar up... saw the shims and figured I'd shave the bridge, since I recall someone mentioning they had done the same. Maybe if I get bored again, I'll radius the TOM to match my fretboard
nah...The Modern Tune-o-matic bottom is arched, where the post meet the bridge is countersunk. I used a hand held belt sander, 80 grit, mounted the sander in a vise upside down and set the trigger lock (hands free). I wrapped the bridge in 4 layers of masking tape, to act as a heat shield. But after 2-3 minutes of grinding, it's becomes unbearable hot and I have to stop, let it cool off then proceed.
The belt sander has a flat metal plate where the paper runs over, so I use that flat spot... this way I know I'm not taking to much of one side. I use my bare hands so I can apply equal pressure, every few seconds I spin the bridge around to ensure I'm grinding it down equally on all sides.
I shave it down until I can barely see the saddle route. You can barely see a square in this photo to the right of the post hole, it's faint.
I got caught sleeping on this one. You can see the saddle route better on this side.
Bridge is shaved, but now the post stick out the top of the bridge. I would shave the post, but the notches are not deep enough. So I use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to deepen the slots, it takes 3 seconds. Now I wrap the post up in tape, and shave it down to size on the belt sander. Removing the chrome plating uncovers a softer metal, with a copper tone to it. Be careful when adjusting the action, use a large enough screwdriver so you don't mar the slots.
Before shaving, my bridge was set flush against the plate. Now the treble side has to come up a hair and the bass side actually has to be off the plate. Now I just need to make a radius gauge and match the bridge/fretboard radius... but not today. Total time was around 2 - 3 hours. I suppose if I filled a cup up with naphtha (lighter fluid) and threw the hot bridge into it to cool off, I could of done this in 30 minutes or less.
Joey : Science here
People watching topic : Aham
Joey : Get , floaap
thanks man much more clearly.
but i stills not get advantage of top bridge on jag-stang.
what it´s improve ?
thus my surf-stang have Tonepros Lock-Tom bridge , it´s fantastic bridge no doubt. locking even more
People watching topic : Aham
Joey : Get , floaap
thanks man much more clearly.
but i stills not get advantage of top bridge on jag-stang.
what it´s improve ?
thus my surf-stang have Tonepros Lock-Tom bridge , it´s fantastic bridge no doubt. locking even more
Precise dwarf bravery
My Shaved TOM (look at the photo, I actually have to raise my bass side action, I have a lot more range of motion (can drop it low) with my bridge)iCEByTes wrote:Joey : Science here
People watching topic : Aham
Joey : Get , floaap
thanks man much more clearly.
but i stills not get advantage of top bridge on jag-stang.
what it´s improve ?
thus my surf-stang have Tonepros Lock-Tom bridge , it´s fantastic bridge no doubt. locking even more
vs
Your Hairy Pussy (bridge is bottomed out, hard against plate.... you're fucked... want lower action, get a shim)
What it comes down to is, that I can adjust my action with a screwdriver. You gotta fuck with neck shims all day until you get it right, because Fat TOM won't go down on you........ it's too tall, it's designed for arch top guitars not us. And in theory, less neck shims = more "guitar tone" points
