mkt3000 wrote:Out of curiosity, how much of your build is based off of a stock unmodified supersonic (for replacement part purposes for my own SS)?
Not sure what you mean exactly. I got the jackplate from wadeaminute (hope I spelled it right ). But from now on I will machine my own. I have a couple connections for plating. The pg was not original, just a flat black replacement I got from e bay. I have no super sonic nor have I even seen one I person. I used pics from Google and 3 or 4 programs to make templates.
Basically if you needed a pg, Jack plate, I could make them and they'd fit a stock SS. Or maybe talk to wade. As for a neck mine is the right scale and may or may not fit a stock SS. With an original neck I could clone it.
BTW here's my heel. I don't think I've posted these yet.
Anything else is off the shelf items, I'm lucky enough to live very close to about six guitar shops and have made friends with them and they trust me to the point that I can dig thru there parts bins and either make a fair offer or they charge me at there cost so I don't usually have to wait on shipping for most stuff.
Super shitty cell pic. Shot one side of the guitar today. After experimenting I found to keep the runs at bay I needed to shoot onto a level surface. I'm sure if I could fine tune all the variables this wouldn't be necessary. Flow rate, pressure, ratios all factor in. I keep wanting to spray to keep the flake even, but then I get runs, also I have to shoot thinner than usual thane witch makes for even more runs. Glad I practiced before going for it.
I promise quality pics of the finished project
Gravity also helps lying the flake down mostly flat. Another shot an hour later. Don't know if you guys can tell from these pics but the flake lies down giving it a more smooth look. Let it set over night in the oven @ 140f it should be more than ready to handle and move to the back, then on to the sides. Then it will be time to see how many coats of thane it will take to seal in the flake and still have a margin for error. Don't want to wet sand down to the flake. It will take the blue off and ill end up with silver spots in the blue.
wantsasupersonic wrote:Super shitty cell pic. Shot one side of the guitar today. After experimenting I found to keep the runs at bay I needed to shoot onto a level surface. I'm sure if I could fine tune all the variables this wouldn't be necessary. Flow rate, pressure, ratios all factor in. I keep wanting to spray to keep the flake even, but then I get runs, also I have to shoot thinner than usual thane witch makes for even more runs. Glad I practiced before going for it.
I promise quality pics of the finished project
wantsasupersonic wrote:Super shitty cell pic. Shot one side of the guitar today. After experimenting I found to keep the runs at bay I needed to shoot onto a level surface. I'm sure if I could fine tune all the variables this wouldn't be necessary. Flow rate, pressure, ratios all factor in. I keep wanting to spray to keep the flake even, but then I get runs, also I have to shoot thinner than usual thane witch makes for even more runs. Glad I practiced before going for it.
I promise quality pics of the finished project
What flake spray are you using?
I use nason (Dupont) select clear, and activator mixed at a 2 to 1 ratio and 2 parts kustom shop. 008 hex flake and use my Frankensteined togeather spray rig and a cheapo gun with a oversized nozzle. I pieced together my whole rig for under $75. It can be done. Its more economical than rattle cans if you plan on doing more than 5 guitars. Nothing wrong with rattle cans, still use them occasionally. This guitar is polyurethane due to the thickness of the clear I need. Nitro would take years to build up to the thickness. Would also yellow and change the final color of the guitar. Not to mention the margin for error with nitro. I can wet sand poly the next day, as to nitro at least 30 days.
wantsasupersonic wrote:You guys with ss's, what's your opinions on strap button locations? Factory in the neck plate, or move it to the upper bout?
I switched my strap button location on my first one when I got it in 1998 to the upper bout. Bad move. Guitar did not balance well. Big neck dive. Now I keep the strap buttons on the neck plate. I think many people must try the move, as a few others that I have bought also have holes there, but when I got them the strap buttons were back on the neck plate. My white one actually has holes on the top and bottom bouts.
I would try the neck plate first. That way, no hole in the nice paint. Plus, it looks more upside-down that way.
A Whole Bunch of Guitars. Some with sparkles. Some with Pearl. Some with racing stripes.
wantsasupersonic wrote:You guys with ss's, what's your opinions on strap button locations? Factory in the neck plate, or move it to the upper bout?
I switched my strap button location on my first one when I got it in 1998 to the upper bout. Bad move. Guitar did not balance well. Big neck dive. Now I keep the strap buttons on the neck plate. I think many people must try the move, as a few others that I have bought also have holes there, but when I got them the strap buttons were back on the neck plate. My white one actually has holes on the top and bottom bouts.
I would try the neck plate first. That way, no hole in the nice paint. Plus, it looks more upside-down that way.
jamba72 wrote:great build..great color..
how will you do the neck radius?
I have radius blocks. I'm a 12'' radius Guy. I'm working out a all in one jig for truss routing, radius, fret slotting, planing, because this is my first short scale neck I wanted an all in one jig. Pics and a video on this to come. Still have mods to make and math to do on it.
