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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:41 pm
by Mike
Looks fucking smart mate.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:46 pm
by James
You should have an on off button for each of the switches, as well as a lower horn toggle switch. If you have a bridge option you could make it Duo and Musicmaster II friendly with little hassle.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:47 pm
by Mike
James wrote:You should have an on off button for each of the switches, as well as a lower horn toggle switch. If you have a bridge option you could make it Duo and Musicmaster II friendly with little hassle.
It'll start as Mustang but eventually be extended to all Fender guitars. Need your help on this.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:50 pm
by dots
this needs to be wiki'd along with the fender color chart. way, way, way too awesome!
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:51 pm
by Mike
You know it. Next Level.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:05 pm
by James
Mike wrote:James wrote:You should have an on off button for each of the switches, as well as a lower horn toggle switch. If you have a bridge option you could make it Duo and Musicmaster II friendly with little hassle.
It'll start as Mustang but eventually be extended to all Fender guitars. Need your help on this.
I'm not sure what I could do that would be helpful. I understand hexadecimal code which is what HTML uses for colour, but as Sloan said software will grab it for you anyway. If some parts that are too difficult to vector (which is how I'm assuming it's being done) and require png files with transparent backgrounds (as Zaphod said) I could get on that.
I think it's possible to take the whole dressing room thing beyond where it's currently at (with kisakae and the offset one) and make the results more photo realistic. I don't think it would be that much harder to do but would require quite a bit more work.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:07 pm
by Mike
You can provide photoshop grabs of various elements of guitars. I've seen you change and manipulate images. For example you could make the red tort and brown tort drop on scratchplates from real photographs. Put your mind to it.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:14 pm
by James
When I was talking about the making it more photo-realistic part, I meant capturing parts from photos to use. I'm cool with doing some of that though I'd need to know what dimensions to go for and a general idea of what to do. I'm assuming for a pickguard that having the shape be just the outline is the thing to do so that you can select no neck pickup and have pickguard underneath.
If it can be detailed and more photo-realistic, I'd like a dressing room that was a bit bigger than the standard. Say, 1200 pixels.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:15 pm
by Mike
James wrote:When I was talking about the making it more photo-realistic part, I meant capturing parts from photos to use. I'm cool with doing some of that though I'd need to know what dimensions to go for and a general idea of what to do. I'm assuming for a pickguard that having the shape be just the outline is the thing to do so that you can select no neck pickup and have pickguard underneath.
If it can be detailed and more photo-realistic, I'd like a dressing room that was a bit bigger than the standard. Say, 1200 pixels.
Sounds good, this is Dan's basic thing but I'm sure he'll be willing to make changes to make it more powerful.
There are a LOT of talented people here who can make this a massive success.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:19 pm
by Pens
Should'n't this thread be stickied?
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:24 pm
by Sloan
BRONCO KNOBZ
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:29 pm
by DanHeron
James wrote:When I was talking about the making it more photo-realistic part, I meant capturing parts from photos to use. I'm cool with doing some of that though I'd need to know what dimensions to go for and a general idea of what to do. I'm assuming for a pickguard that having the shape be just the outline is the thing to do so that you can select no neck pickup and have pickguard underneath.
If it can be detailed and more photo-realistic, I'd like a dressing room that was a bit bigger than the standard. Say, 1200 pixels.
At the minute Im drawing most of the stuff but will use photos for bits like tort pickguard, and maybe stuff like knobs and switches. Making it photo realistic would be amazing, and probably not too hard - just requires lots of resizing of images. The only problem is everything needs to be photographed dead straight on or it doesnt look right.
Basically each bit of the guitar is on a seperate layer, like you said with the pickguard and pickups, with the strings being on the top layer.
I was thinking we could get loads of shortscale users to put in some good photos, taken dead straight on. Then could try making one where you select photos of parts and construct a realistic looking guitar!
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:40 pm
by DanHeron
I'm thinking this might take a while to add in ALL the new stuff, so I will use this thread to post updates untill its finally done.
I'm about to add the body colours using Robroe's colour chart and the Fender.com colour chart. I'm going to label each colour by its colour code, '00' etc.
;D
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:56 pm
by James
For the colours it would be good if you had small square boxes like you do, and then when you hover over a square the Fender number and name come up above it. So when you hover over daphne, there'd be a small text box above the colours that would say "67 - Daphne Blue" or whatever. It's more compact than having all the names and numbers listed at once, and still shows you what you're dealing with.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:03 pm
by DanHeron
James wrote:For the colours it would be good if you had small square boxes like you do, and then when you hover over a square the Fender number and name come up above it. So when you hover over daphne, there'd be a small text box above the colours that would say "67 - Daphne Blue" or whatever. It's more compact than having all the names and numbers listed at once, and still shows you what you're dealing with.
I had that idea! Im not too sure how to do that, but im going to look into it. If not I thought just having a small box with the 2 digit number over the box is ok. You can still see the colour behind the number, and if you need to know the name you can just go to the fender colour chart and look up the number.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:09 pm
by James
I've managed to do it using flash before. I think I used incredibly inefficient code but I basically had lots of text with the same position, and when you do an action like click or hover it would show the relevant text and hide the rest. I think it was using action script, or something with a name like that. It's definitely doable and would be worthwhile.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:10 pm
by DanHeron
Yeah, actionscript is the code flash uses. I will look into it and add it on when i find a way of doing it.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:14 pm
by Reece
If they're all buttons could you not name them all according to their colour chart number and then simply display their name when you hover?
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:18 pm
by DanHeron
Zaphod wrote:If they're all buttons could you not name them all according to their colour chart number and then simply display their name when you hover?
Yeah thats what I want to do. I just need to find the code that makes a text box appear when you hover over the button, I'm a bit sketchy on how to do that with actionscript. Its deffinately possible though.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:12 pm
by DanHeron
I have done all the little colour squares for the body colour!! So many 28x28 boxes.
I was suprised by the amount of gaps the Fender colour chart has, i filled some of the gaps using Robroes chart but there are still big gaps in the numbers.
Does fender have a colour for every number upto 99? or are they just numbered randomly?
Heres how it looks with numbers over the boxes (they can easily be taken off when i sort out the hover thing):