Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:51 am
I don't have a clue of the going rates but that seems beyond high. That seems like taking the piss.
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 2:42 pm
That is retarded. I got my bassman fully recapped, new power tubes, and biased, along with a general cleaning, servicing for 140.
Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 2:47 pm
I'm starting to thing that Sloan is to tube amps what rob is to Mustang necks, in that they both know more about yours than you do, without ever having seen or played it.hotrodperlmutter wrote:THE SLOAN DOES NOT GUESS
THE SLOAN MAKES AN EDUCATED DECISION
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:45 pm
Thank, that gives me an idea of what is should cost. My MMB shouldn't be anywhere as expensive to fix as your bassman if it's just caps.cobascis wrote:That is retarded. I got my bassman fully recapped, new power tubes, and biased, along with a general cleaning, servicing for 140.
Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:31 pm
The codes on the caps suggest they were manufactured 1973/74. I have some that age that still work OK, others started spewing a while ago.
Those pale-coloured (metal film) resistors on the input are modifications, so I suspect they're set up to allow different sensitivities on the two inputs.
Crackling/popping can be down to the tubes - I replaced all the smoothing caps in my son's 10-year-old Marshall TSL because it was doing that, made no difference. Then he forked out for some tubes - problem solved.
Meaasuring the state of the caps can only really done with an ESR (effective series resistance) meter. If you have an LCR function on your DMM you may get a clue about whether they're still within tolerance for value, but not whether they're causing noise. You could check that by substituting one at a time (lift one end, tack new cap across).
Those pale-coloured (metal film) resistors on the input are modifications, so I suspect they're set up to allow different sensitivities on the two inputs.
Crackling/popping can be down to the tubes - I replaced all the smoothing caps in my son's 10-year-old Marshall TSL because it was doing that, made no difference. Then he forked out for some tubes - problem solved.
Meaasuring the state of the caps can only really done with an ESR (effective series resistance) meter. If you have an LCR function on your DMM you may get a clue about whether they're still within tolerance for value, but not whether they're causing noise. You could check that by substituting one at a time (lift one end, tack new cap across).
Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:33 pm
f*ck those c*ntsDabeck Electronics wrote:Estimates that are refused must be picked up within 10 days of refusal or item will be placed in storage at $10.00 per day for 30 days at which time it will be considered abandoned and become property of Dabeck Electronics.
Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 5:27 pm
None of mine are spewing anything. Doesn't mean they are not bad, but maybe I should replace tubes and look at the power chord first. It has a 3 prong power cord, but its kinda rough and doesn't plug in smoothly. I wonder if the ground post might be loose. Tubes and a new power chord would be easy fixes and then I could move on to more complicated stuff.NickS wrote:The codes on the caps suggest they were manufactured 1973/74. I have some that age that still work OK, others started spewing a while ago.
Those pale-coloured (metal film) resistors on the input are modifications, so I suspect they're set up to allow different sensitivities on the two inputs.
Crackling/popping can be down to the tubes - I replaced all the smoothing caps in my son's 10-year-old Marshall TSL because it was doing that, made no difference. Then he forked out for some tubes - problem solved.
Meaasuring the state of the caps can only really done with an ESR (effective series resistance) meter. If you have an LCR function on your DMM you may get a clue about whether they're still within tolerance for value, but not whether they're causing noise. You could check that by substituting one at a time (lift one end, tack new cap across).
Do amps require a special power cord or will any 3 prong cord do? I saw one at Home Depot for rewiring a power tool that would probably work fine.
Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:29 pm
far as I know any power cord should work.... I have seen computer and PS2 power cords used on amps..... the tranformers in teh amp is what does all the work, the cord just ges the power from the wall to it
Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:46 pm
Any one should work. I like these from the hardware store. They're very durable.
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:12 am
Anyone recommend a good vendor for tubes?