ShortScale.org

Medicine Melancholy wrote:

BacchusPaul wrote:To be honest, I'm not sure how much a shortscale would help. I suppose it won't do any harm and has to be easier to play, but I'd have said that things like posture and technique would be where you should be looking if you're experiencing wrist pain or want to minimise risk. I'd say play with the guitar high up, rather than at your knees, and try to keep your wrist straight and relaxed.

The thing is I have a habit of playing at awkward angles. I noodle around a lot when I'm watching a movie or whatever as I have an awful attention span and it does tend to strain my wrist since my chair doesn't really allow for a decent angle. An offset in general might be more comfortable for sitty down playing.

This is sort of where I'm getting the idea.

Well, it might make some difference, and it's definitely not going to make things worse. However, to me it sounds like you've found your problem just there.

Yeah smaller scale may well help but I find more important for small hands is a small width of fretboard. My Guyatone is 25" scale, very thick in the neck but tiny in width and it's perfect for me. I've encountered few guitars like that. Even A-width shortscales will always flute up the neck to a normal fender heel size.

Also re: injuries worth reading this article. It helped me sort out some major issues but requires a bit of facing facts and getting on with it ...

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/lessons/ ... mfort.html

I just had a go on my Dad's Epiphone Dot which is in the Gibson scale, so shorter than I'm used to. It can be hard to make chords in places but it does feel a bit more comfortable aside from that. I'm thinking neck width and fretboard radius have a lot to do with it. The nut width seems to be the same on the CP Jag, but the radius is a bit lower so that should ideally make it easier for chords. I've never had a guitar with a Fretboard radius less than 12", I think.

I tend to play mostly lead and partial chords(not shred though) so it's probably not a big deal ether way.

Also considering a Baritone jag, but capoing it to the normal range when I sit down to play.

Medicine Melancholy wrote:I just had a go on my Dad's Epiphone Dot which is in the Gibson scale, so shorter than I'm used to. It can be hard to make chords in places but it does feel a bit more comfortable aside from that. I'm thinking neck width and fretboard radius have a lot to do with it. The nut width seems to be the same on the CP Jag, but the radius is a bit lower so that should ideally make it easier for chords. I've never had a guitar with a Fretboard radius less than 12", I think.

I tend to play mostly lead and partial chords(not shred though) so it's probably not a big deal ether way.

Also considering a Baritone jag, but capoing it to the normal range when I sit down to play.

I would think the thicker strings would make it more difficult to play with a janky wrist.

Jags are designed to be played with heavy strings though right? But a TOM should make it fairly standard.

Medicine Melancholy wrote:Jags are designed to be played with heavy strings though right? But a TOM should make it fairly standard.

i use 10s on my CP with no problems

ekwatts wrote:There was a guy on here a while back who had injuries and found shortscales suited him much better but it was kind of hard to talk to him about it because he felt the need to remind everyone how his brain didn't work because of black druggies and people pulling levers or something.

"Hey guys, I bought a Jagmaster and I really like it I hate black people and mexicans Obama is the devil you are all a bunch of punk teenagers."

correct me if i am wrong. generally i see SS guitars haz chunkier necks as far as i am concerned. if u had a bad wrist, i would advice find a thinner neck gitar and light strings. 8 gauge for example. I haz weak fingers, so i used 8 strangs.

I would give shortscales points for reducing hand cramps, but not on the weight/balance front. They're pretty much like most other Fender electrics in that regard, to me anyway. I have strats that weigh less than my Jag-stang, and obviously the Jaguar is actually bigger than most Fenders despite being shortscale. Something like a duo or stang is going to weigh less and feel slinkier but it's not a general rule of thumb for a shortscale Fender that it'll be smaller and lighter and easier to play.

And I wouldn't say SS guitars have chunkier necks, none of the ones I've played anyway. The chunkiest Fender necks to me are the 50s V-neck and 70s U-neck, which I think were more or less confined to the strat and tele deluxe... of course this probably varies with late-vintage shorties.

How wide are the necks? Wide necks can be awkward for my wrists, like 7 string 12 string but if it's a short scale I'll need decent neck width to fit all my fingers on. I'm used to 12 and 14 inch radius though, so 9 or 7.5 will be an improvement with regards that.

he doesn't seem to have problems with his wrist, so i think you'd be ok too.

paul_ wrote:And I wouldn't say SS guitars have chunkier necks, none of the ones I've played anyway. The chunkiest Fender necks to me are the 50s V-neck and 70s U-neck, which I think were more or less confined to the strat and tele deluxe... of course this probably varies with late-vintage shorties.

it just depends, both my 70s mustangs had huge necks.

Based on everything you've written, you should look at the PawnShop Mustang Special. Short scale, small body, light weight, ability to dial in tones that aren't generic strat or LP.

StevePirates wrote:Based on everything you've written, you should look at the PawnShop Mustang Special. Short scale, small body, light weight, ability to dial in tones that aren't generic strat or LP.

It's pretty nice alright! I just saw the red one and it's neat. BUT it has no Trem, and it's a bit too expensive

Also I'm nearly 6 foot and pretty broad(average sized hands compared to a guy though at least), so I'm sensitive about how tiny guitars make me look!

I'm thinking the CP Jaguar, either the HH or SS are perfect for me aside from the weight. I think I just need a good strap. If i did need to get it done down the road, how much would chambering cost? Is it even possible? I imagine it's one of the more basic things to do, providing you can open the guitar up, but I don't think Fenders are constructed like that.

Medicine Melancholy wrote:

StevePirates wrote:Based on everything you've written, you should look at the PawnShop Mustang Special. Short scale, small body, light weight, ability to dial in tones that aren't generic strat or LP.

It's pretty nice alright! I just saw the red one and it's neat. BUT it has no Trem, and it's a bit too expensive

Also I'm nearly 6 foot and pretty broad(average sized hands compared to a guy though at least), so I'm sensitive about how tiny guitars make me look!

I'm thinking the CP Jaguar, either the HH or SS are perfect for me aside from the weight. I think I just need a good strap.

I understand. I'm 6'2" and 230 lbs. It looked like I was playing a heavy metal ukelele.

You have no idea how many times a day I wish I was a cute small asian girl so I could play a Mustang... sigh...

Though Mike looks pretty cute playing one too <3

I used to have pain in my forearm and wrist in my right hand untill i worked out my picking technique. I used to strain at the elbow to pick fast before realizing that it's all a wrist motion.

JJLipton wrote:I used to have pain in my forearm and wrist in my right hand untill i worked out my picking technique. I used to strain at the elbow to pick fast before realizing that it's all a wrist motion.

Yeah, most people who play guitar are self taught which is probably a problem unless you're an ergonomic genius.

Medicine Melancholy wrote:How wide are the necks? Wide necks can be awkward for my wrists, like 7 string 12 string but if it's a short scale I'll need decent neck width to fit all my fingers on. I'm used to 12 and 14 inch radius though, so 9 or 7.5 will be an improvement with regards that.

Careful, radius isn't the same as width but can certainly change your perception of the neck's size. You need to look at nut width. Most Fenders and Squiers tend to have a 1.65" nut but the current productions of the Squier CV Custom Tele, Duo Sonic and Fender Mustang have a narrower 1.625" nut (looks small but makes a big difference). Try them out.

Also your overall posture could be to blame - if your wrists hurt, shorten your guitar strap when standing and don't slouch when sitting, or at least pull the guitar further up your chest if you're lieing down.

Medicine Melancholy wrote:

StevePirates wrote:Based on everything you've written, you should look at the PawnShop Mustang Special. Short scale, small body, light weight, ability to dial in tones that aren't generic strat or LP.

It's pretty nice alright! I just saw the red one and it's neat. BUT it has no Trem, and it's a bit too expensive

Also I'm nearly 6 foot and pretty broad(average sized hands compared to a guy though at least), so I'm sensitive about how tiny guitars make me look!

I'm thinking the CP Jaguar, either the HH or SS are perfect for me aside from the weight. I think I just need a good strap. If i did need to get it done down the road, how much would chambering cost? Is it even possible? I imagine it's one of the more basic things to do, providing you can open the guitar up, but I don't think Fenders are constructed like that.

It seems to me that a 65 RI Mustang would be perfect for you. It's lite weight, has a trem and a thinner neck. No need to be self conscious about the size of the guitar if it does the job. I am 6ft 4in and I gladly rock my Musicmaster all day and the body is bigger than the Pawnshop Mustang Special. If you look you could find a 69' Mustang with the contours and matching headstock.

You might also consider a Fender Cyclone 2. It's the Gibson Scale (24.75") , 3 Jaguar pickups and a strat trem.