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Got my first coat of primer on it. It's kind of stripey and uneven, but no drips, and I figure it will even out in a coat or two (if not, will someone yell at me now so I can start over?).

How long should I wait between coats?

I go across the other way. But you want to do 50-30% overlaps with the paint line you just put down. I will take a couple coats to get good coverage. It should say on the can, but most spray primer can be recoated every 20 minutes. Also, I give a quick coat around the bends in the edges so I get build up there. I usually wait 4 hrs to overnight to smooth out with 600 grit wet sand.

Got my first two coats of yellow on. Giving it a couple of days to dry now so I can sand out the spot where I picked a piece of dust off.

Progress in pictures:

Out of curiosity, what kind of interval should I have between coats? The Rustoleum can says I can do two coats per hour and/or leave 48 hours between coats. I want to get at least another two coats on there--probably more, since there are some thin spots around the edges and in the cutaways. What kind of a timetable am I looking at?

for the clear coat i have i do a coat every hour, three coats, let it dry for 14 hours, then level sand, and repeat, each one of those seasons i consider a coat. as for color, i rarley level sand nitro color as it burns into the clear anyway.

Looking good, Billy Ray!

Sprayed too close on one coat and got a big drip running down the back. I thought I had it sanded out before I started spraying again, but not completely, it seems. I'll give it another couple of days, sand a little more, spray a little more?

Worst case scenario, it's only noticeable when the light hits it just so, and it's on the back anyway, so nobody has to know about it but me.

I think I'm going with the clear coat after all. I want it shiny. I did a ton of coats of yellow, so it's solid orange peel. Should I sand it smooth before I hit it with clear? (I hope the answer is yes, because I already started. )

Remember this project? Yeah, still working on it. But I've gotten as far as my second can of clear, so progress, right? In my own defense, the weather hasn't exactly been conducive to opening a window for ventilation the last few months.

While I wait out this latest visit from the polar vortex, you guys can help me pick a pickguard. I originally envisioned it with either black or BWB, but the white on yellow looks a lot better than I was expecting, so I suppose I could leave it as is. Pretty much anything at WD Music is potentially on the table--within reason (I'll skip the snakeskin print and the skull pile). If I'd bought the black Bronco bass to start with, I probably would have thrown the silver paisley guard on there and been done with it, but I'm not sure what's best to do with the yellow.

Do an pearloid!

Checkerboard it cheap trick style, I would. But all glossy black would look cool, and the white is nice too. Sorry not much help.

mixtape wrote:Remember this project? Yeah, still working on it. But I've gotten as far as my second can of clear, so progress, right? In my own defense, the weather hasn't exactly been conducive to opening a window for ventilation the last few months.

While I wait out this latest visit from the polar vortex, you guys can help me pick a pickguard. I originally envisioned it with either black or BWB, but the white on yellow looks a lot better than I was expecting, so I suppose I could leave it as is. Pretty much anything at WD Music is potentially on the table--within reason (I'll skip the snakeskin print and the skull pile). If I'd bought the black Bronco bass to start with, I probably would have thrown the silver paisley guard on there and been done with it, but I'm not sure what's best to do with the yellow.

Looking gooooodddd!!
I'm planning on re-finishing my cv duosonic soon, but not sure if I need to strip the finish totally, or sand back and then spray?..

JohnnyTheBoy wrote: I'm planning on re-finishing my cv duosonic soon, but not sure if I need to strip the finish totally, or sand back and then spray?..

If you're doing an opaque finish, you should be able to get by with sanding back, primer, then color. That's what I did on this.

This project is done--pics by Monday--just have to finish setting it up. But since I'm switching to heavier strings, the nut slot for the low E is now a little too snug around the edges, right at the top of the nut. Any tips for widening it without destroying anything or buying the fancy nut files that I can't afford because I'm unemployed? (also why the new pickguard is on hold) My game plan right now is 600 grit sandpaper + extreme caution.

Fold 600 grit over a credit card and sand by only applying pressure to the sides of the slot. Do a little to the left side and then to the right side and keep testing the slot width untel it is where you lik it . Put a dab of Vaseline in the slot with a toothpick when you are done.

Can't wait to see pics! Yellow was def the right choice

These pics are late (naturally). Holiday weekend, and when I took a closer look at it, all of the nut slots needed widening, not just the low E, and that bridge is a beast to intonate. I figure close enough is good enough, or at least it will have to be. It's good to have this bass back, finally. When the time comes, I'll celebrate my return to the workforce with a new pickguard (black? white pearl? tort?).

Black for sure. No go on the stripes?

Looks great! I feel you on the intonation issues. Definitely experienced some of that with my Musicmaster and MM bass.

As for pickguard, I actually think pearloid would look quite nice.

I'm also with you on the troublesome intonation.

You've doen a fantastic job, what a great looking bass. Great thread also with the "how to do it" advice.

Here is a thread that also tackles intonation issues with this type of bridge as it might be if interest. As I remember the Wilkinson rotating saddles are available separately form their bridge.

All good