Yas plz George!George wrote:if it works and i don't die i'll post the parts list. you can probably get them cheaper elsewhere but i'm not savvy with this stuff really.
has anyone ever made an attenuator before?
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I have something similar..I have a cab that has 1 12 in it and my friend put an attenuator with a volume control on the cab. I can run any head or combo out to it and crank the amp but control the volume on the speaker...he said it wasn't hard or expensive to do but i never asked what it entails. It has a good speaker too..celestion gold i think...I think they should all have this. Although my mesa breaks up nice at lower volumes, this makes sense to have on everything. I want the tubes hot but the volume adjustable..if that makes sense. I clean it up on my guitar volume but i like em smoking hot.
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does this schematic look good to go with the 3 way switch? i added the red.
this should cover 3 levels of brightness. can i swap the neutral and 4.7uf cap so it goes in order of brightness from bottom to top?
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this should cover 3 levels of brightness. can i swap the neutral and 4.7uf cap so it goes in order of brightness from bottom to top?
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Last edited by George on Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:36 am, edited 2 times in total.
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i went with these guys
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/willys-hifi-lo ... d=81735486
i got the 50W 8 ohm because my amp is only rated 30W but i think i got the last one in stock! if you ebay "ohm attenuator" you should get a few options, same as amazon.
just remember:
- ohms absolutely must match
- wattage should ideally be a bit higher than the amp's wattage (but not hugely, if possible)
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/willys-hifi-lo ... d=81735486
i got the 50W 8 ohm because my amp is only rated 30W but i think i got the last one in stock! if you ebay "ohm attenuator" you should get a few options, same as amazon.
just remember:
- ohms absolutely must match
- wattage should ideally be a bit higher than the amp's wattage (but not hugely, if possible)
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Thanks. Some recommended to over egg the wattage rating as much as poss. My amp is 20watts and the LPad I'm currently using is 100W. I'm guessing it just means it's not feeling the strain as much??? Thanks again though and keep me updated. LOVE your idea of the bypass switch!
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Mike wrote:That's like honk squared. too much fucking honk.
well that might be a possibility actually. i might read into that and change my order! it seems people are using 100W attenuators on 100W amps so i think it's probably okay?Benmurray85 wrote:Thanks. Some recommended to over egg the wattage rating as much as poss. My amp is 20watts and the LPad I'm currently using is 100W. I'm guessing it just means it's not feeling the strain as much??? Thanks again though and keep me updated. LOVE your idea of the bypass switch!
i think the main issue would be cooling, so probably worth drilling some ventilation in the enclosure
It would let frequencies starting an octave lower bypass the attenuator. The curious thing is that since the impedance between the centre lug of the attenuator and ground reduces as you turn the volume down, the frequency at which the bypass starts to take effect goes up. When the volume is turned way down, at high frequencies you're connecting the output of the amp to a very low impedance through a capacitor.George wrote:so the amended schematic i posted would work though?
hmm i don't really understand any of that lol.
in layman's terms are you saying the more attenuation you add (i.e. the lower you drop the overall volume using the l-pad), the more effect the cap has? i believe this is meant to be the case. apparently the more you attenuate an amp the darker the tone gets, which is why people add a bright switch
the caps are electrolytic and rated for 105 degrees Celsius and 400 volts too if that matters. i don't know what that means either
in layman's terms are you saying the more attenuation you add (i.e. the lower you drop the overall volume using the l-pad), the more effect the cap has? i believe this is meant to be the case. apparently the more you attenuate an amp the darker the tone gets, which is why people add a bright switch
the caps are electrolytic and rated for 105 degrees Celsius and 400 volts too if that matters. i don't know what that means either
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