ShortScale.org

If you set up the E so low, and the A so much higher, you're practically begging for intonation problems.

Looks really nice though.

dustandbarley wrote:Here is a thread that also tackles intonation issues with this type of bridge as it might be if interest. As I remember the Wilkinson rotating saddles are available separately form their bridge.

Fakir Mustache wrote:If you set up the E so low, and the A so much higher, you're practically begging for intonation problems.

That was actually part of my exasperated attempt to correct the intonation problems. Some evening when I'm feeling patient I'll start over and see if I can do any better. That thread should be some help. And also... I know I said no more red guitars, and that was why I refinished the Bronco in the first place, but that Tele bass is hot.

I was thinking very hard about going to a four-saddle bridge when I did the refin, but I decided to give the stock bridge another chance instead. That may have been a mistake.

Thanks for all the compliments, guys. There were a lot of points in the process where I had no idea if it would come out looking anything like it was supposed to. I'm hoping to be less slow and blundering next time, and I've forgotten just enough of the frustration to want there to be a next time.

mixtape wrote:And also... I know I said no more red guitars, and that was why I refinished the Bronco in the first place, but that Tele bass is hot.

Thanks - the bass came to me this colour, and although the guy I bought it from said it was original - I'm pretty sure it isn't. I do like it too. I have some LaBella 760 Flatwounds on order for my Music Master, so I'll have the pleasure of tweaking the bridge again in the next few weeks. I took a quick piccy of the slant I managed to get on the MM saddles incase you find it useful.....
[img]http://image by Dust and Barley, on Flickr[/img]

Well, the good news is, I slanted those saddles and fixed the intonation. The bad news is that when I had it on the bench, I noticed that this had happened:



I can only assume that I set it back in the stand too soon after putting the wax on, some black foamy crud from the guitar stand mixed with the wax, and the whole mess hardened cruddily. The question is, how far do I have to backtrack to fix it? My plan right now is to gently sand off the ugly with some 2000 grit, then reapply rubbing compound, polishing compound, and wax to the problem spot (and let it dry much longer than before). That work?

Anyone?

I think all you can try is to take off as little as possible to remove it and then work from there. If you can take it off with just 2000 grit you could reapply the rubbing compound and be good but if it's gone deeper into the paint you might need to re-do more steps to cover it up.

I would go with rubbing compound or polish first with a terri towel first.

Shit, it's getting worse. Now other black crud from the end of the strap is working into it, so I'm thinking at this late stage that the problem is with the wax I used and not with my impatience. It gets really hot in my room in the summer, but I didn't think that would cause issues for auto wax. It's supposed to go on cars. Cars routinely get parked outside in the hot sun, so what gives?

Is there something else I could be using instead, or a brand of wax that hardens... harder?

Bump. Any ideas?

I called my tech about it a while back, and he thought it could either be the wax or the finish itself not having dried completely. I gave it a decent amount of time, but it was in a humid basement, so it might not have been enough. Here are a couple photos of what I found when I took all the hardware off. Does this look like a wax issue or the clear coat coming off? I suspect it's the clear coat, but I really hope someone will tell me otherwise.

Sorry this has happened... I don't know the answers but hope you can fix it

Here is my two cents. This is a rattle can clear coat issue. The rattle can clear coat has different organic volatiles in it to make them less toxic to people and the environment. The end result is that it can take months and months for it to finish gassing off. The last couple guitars I did with spray can automotive clear coat have been a nightmare. I would sniff them before waxing and could still smell organics in the paint months after using. If you wax before the clear coat is totally gassed off, you just trapped the gas inside, more or less, and you then get problems like paint blistering, bubbling, wax melting or sticking to stuff. I had the same issue with my guitar rack. the volatiles from the clear coat melt the foam rubber and it makes a goop that sticks in the wax/paint finish. This was maybe 4 months or more after shooting the clear. If the wax has sat up for a couple of days, it should not mess with the foam rubber. I have plenty of guitars that are coated with carnauba wax and they have not had this problem.

sometimes you get problems around screw holes from wet sanding. the water gets into the wood and caused issues. you can superglue or coat the holes with 2 part epoxy or paint them shut so that they don't take up water.

I have been buying 1 quart cans of duplicolor CC and shooting it. The stuff dries fast and sets fast. The cheap siphon touch-up gun from harbor freight does a really nice job of it. The gun costs about $15 and has a bigger tip then my HVLP touchup gun so works with clear coat better. You need to use a respirator with this type of paint (actually since I own one, I use mine with spray paint too).

Thanks. That sounds exactly like what happened here. I don't think a clear coat that requires a respirator is an option for me right now (i.e. the other living beings at my house strongly object). Do I have any less toxic options? For instance, what would happen if I sanded down to the color and added another can of yellow to build any thin spots back up, then skipped the clear and went to rubbing compound, polishing compound, and carnauba wax. I think the wax I used was silicone, which probably didn't help matters. Would I still get a decently glossy finish? Otherwise, would I be all right redoing the clear as before, switching to carnauba wax, and giving the wax a longer drying time before I let it touch anything?

You need to get rid of all traces of the silicon wax, it will make any new paint fisheye, fresh paint and silicon don't get on at all.