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That looks fantastic

WELCOME TO THE 65 MUSTANG CLUB!!!!!

mine is a A neck slab board like you were asking about.

You still want photos of it?

Is yours an early 65 or a late 65/66 model like mine?

When I was trying to research it prior to purchase I thought it went like:

64 - mostly A, veneer
Early 65 - mix of A and B, veneer
Late 65/66 - mostly B, mostly slab

But the more I look it does seem like Fender just did what it wanted back then so an 64/65 slab A neck wouldn’t surprise me.

robroe wrote:You still want photos of it?

Yes, please!

Nick wrote:Is yours an early 65 or a late 65/66 model like mine?

When I was trying to research it prior to purchase I thought it went like:

64 - mostly A, veneer
Early 65 - mix of A and B, veneer
Late 65/66 - mostly B, mostly slab

But the more I look it does seem like Fender just did what it wanted back then so an 64/65 slab A neck wouldn’t surprise me.

My 66 is veneer. B width.


It's a collectors' nightmare though. Nut and scratchplate not original. One inch of original cloth wire gone. Switches are not original, but I still have them. Don't have the case anymore and never had the bridge cover.

Pat pending dates it to 64 but pickups and neck stamped 65

So early 65 I'm guessing.

The reverb handle plate was pending thru 64 and approved in 65. Mine is still pending.
Tuners are white oval, deluxe. Not f tuners. No extra holes in it for f tuners so it predates that too. Board is slab I think.

I know it's the opposite of however they are made now

congrats, nick, that really is a great investment and should be fun for years!

Nick wrote:I bought it. It was in as described condition, could use a setup but plays fine as it is. The switches could do with a contact cleaner, although the pots look all original and still function smoothly. It is actually a B neck as I suspected but that may be better in the long run, as it’s still narrower than most modern guitars and is still super comfortable. Also despite being a late 65/66 model, it has my preference of laminate fretboard instead of slab.

I’ll take more photos later, I’ll add gut photos when I change the strings. I did check under the pickguard before I bought it but just enough to see that it hadn’t been routed for a humbucker or anything. I’m a bit afraid to take the neck off since the seller claims it has never been removed, and his father is doubtful the previous owner he bought it from in the early 70’s would have had reason to remove it. I may just ask for a photo when I have it set up.

It's a real beaut, so happy it worked out for you, mate! Dakota red Mustangs are one of my absolute fave colour-model combos

I decided to try and diagnose/fix the neck pickup switch so I took some photos of the internals. Looks all original to me? The pots look super clean for 54 years old.

Confirmed as 66 going by the serial number and penciled 5-6-66 date on the bobbins. I think knowing this much is enough for me to not remove the neck unless it’s needed for a setup. I also took some photos to better show the finish checking.










The switching issue turned out to be some corrosion on the contacts. I guided a drop of isopropyl alcohol into the 3 way switch with a cotton swab and slid it back and forth a few times, which took care of the bad connection and it works fine again.

Shit that’s clean, “bringing� it to the meetup?

plopswagon wrote:Shit that’s clean, “bringing� it to the meetup?

sure!

I’m not a “vintage� guy but that checking on the finish is lovely man

This “guitar� is “gorgeous�

Quotes, they give your words “wings�

paul_ wrote: “This� “guitar� “is� “gorgeous�

“Fcuk� “an� “yuo�

This is a Mustang in the best colour they were ever made in, and that finish checking is CHEF KISS

What a lovely guitar, well done!

That is such a lovely guitar.

paul_ wrote:This “guitar� is “gorgeous�

That is such a lovely post.

Nick wrote:I decided to try and diagnose/fix the neck pickup switch so I took some photos of the internals. Looks all original to me? The pots look super clean for 54 years old.

Confirmed as 66 going by the serial number and penciled 5-6-66 date on the bobbins. I think knowing this much is enough for me to not remove the neck unless it’s needed for a setup. I also took some photos to better show the finish checking.

That's interesting, mine seems to have a different brand of pots and jack.


There's a 66 right next to the black lead at the lower left.


I'm sure both are stock.

Mine also have 66 in the stamped number (didn't actually notice in person but I can see it in the photos). I don't know much about the original electronics so I don't know if the numbers on mine indicate year. Definitely interesting if they're both stock and Fender was just using whatever they could find. Maybe they transitioned midway during the year?


I left my guitar for a setup and to fix a few naggles I've noticed already. For one the nut was cut incorrectly, I had always thought the spacing looked odd and when I measured, the top 5 strings are 8mm apart, but for some reason the low E was cut at 9mm from the A string. I opted to have that string slot filled and reslotted rather than replacing the nut. The high E is also a little buzzy when played open. I thought it was just the nut slot being cut too deep, but the tech pointed out the string tree isn't creating much of any angle, so we're not sure if the spacer under the string tree is just too tall. And lastly, the top coat of clear on the back of the neck is starting to chip off, which is not only uncomfortable but leaves little flakes of nitro clear in my palm after playing. the tech said he could use a fine grit micromesh to remove/blend the layers without wearing through the finish, so I went with that.

Nick wrote:Mine also have 66 in the stamped number (didn't actually notice in person but I can see it in the photos). I don't know much about the original electronics so I don't know if the numbers on mine indicate year. Definitely interesting if they're both stock and Fender was just using whatever they could find. Maybe they transitioned midway during the year?


I left my guitar for a setup and to fix a few naggles I've noticed already. For one the nut was cut incorrectly, I had always thought the spacing looked odd and when I measured, the top 5 strings are 8mm apart, but for some reason the low E was cut at 9mm from the A string. I opted to have that string slot filled and reslotted rather than replacing the nut. The high E is also a little buzzy when played open. I thought it was just the nut slot being cut too deep, but the tech pointed out the string tree isn't creating much of any angle, so we're not sure if the spacer under the string tree is just too tall. And lastly, the top coat of clear on the back of the neck is starting to chip off, which is not only uncomfortable but leaves little flakes of nitro clear in my palm after playing. the tech said he could use a fine grit micromesh to remove/blend the layers without wearing through the finish, so I went with that.

Does yours have the F on the neck plate? I think mine is later 1966, looks like the pickups are dated October.

I bought mine decades ago, someone had put in a crappy nut that was very high and the edges were sharp. Apparently a nut that some "tech" cut. I filed the edges, but it was still too high. I tried to fix the nut with nut files a couple of years ago, but screwed it up and ended up putting another nut in.