ShortScale.org

happened to the body on my teisco project when I painted it a few weeks ago. suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucks...

beauteous.

Alright, this project is finally taking off again.

I have found a polyurethane clear that is suitable for this. I ended up going with a product called SuperClear 9000, which is a bit more expensive when compared to a Minwax type product, but I think it might be much better.

I've applied two coats so far, which is going great so far.

man, this is going to look great

Humidity cause blushing... a sorta hazy white fog. It usually finds it's way out in an hour. It can be removed with Blush Remover (or lacquer thinner). I've been painting for 10 straight days in my garage with the garage door open... hadn't had a single problem, cept for blushing that fixs it's self (only when I go heavy on the coats). And it's in the mid 80's and typical high humidity in Georgia.

All 3 of you guys are describing chemical reactions dued to incompatiblity of the paints your using. The result is crinkles and wrinkles, where the coat below separates and lifts up (totally different from orange peel). You can sometimes trick the chemicals by using very misting clear coat layers. Just one light pass to start off.... allow to dry... and slowly start adding more passes to make a complete coat. A coat is usually 3 - 5 passes. I ususally do 3 passes, just depends on how wet your paint is and how fast you move the sprayer. But really you need to find a system that works. I've never had a problem with ReRanch... every time I try to be a cheap dick and bypass ReRanch I run into problems.

Paint is cheaper then labor.

Hm. Interesting post, but I assume you accidentally posted that in the wrong thread? haha.

nope

Oh, okay -- I see what you were referring to now. I had forgotten about the paint talk on the previous page.

The problem I had was not from incompatibility with paints -- I had been using the same paint, and that was probably the 20th coat of clear, if not more. The problem I had was, is that I accidentally left the neck out in the sun when it was about 85 degrees. It melted the paint and caused it to blister down to the first few layers.

I have never dealt with ReRanch, because I don't use nitrocellulose paint. I use acrylic based paints, and acrylic lacquers. They are cheap, with no difference in appearance, and do not yellow. I generally do not want anything that I paint to yellow.

In the case of this guitar, and any petrified finish from now on, I want the clear to be ultra hard, so I am using polyurethane for the final few coats.

ReRanch seems to be more for straight-forward traditional Fender/Gibson colours and paint schemes. I don't ever do that. I would be interested in trying their paint someday, though, but I have a feeling all of the raving over it is mostly hype. Nothing against them, but I'm going to guess there is no difference between the ReRanch clear that costs $16, or any department/hardware store nitro clear that costs $5. But, if you are wanting a specific Fender colour, then it seems perfect.

For the most part, unless it's really low quality stuff like Dollar General paint or something, paint is paint. It is up the person applying the paint to know how it is going to react to the way the object has been prepared, and how it is finished in terms of sanding and buffing. Department store paints like Krylon and Dupli-Color are very nice, and are very cheap.

Narco Martenot wrote:Oh, okay -- I see what you were referring to now. I had forgotten about the paint talk on the previous page.

The problem I had was not from incompatibility with paints -- I had been using the same paint, and that was probably the 20th coat of clear, if not more. The problem I had was, is that I accidentally left the neck out in the sun when it was about 85 degrees. It melted the paint and caused it to blister down to the first few layers.

That always kills me when you've got 98% of the guitar done... and shit happens. That kinda stuff never happens on day 1.

I have never dealt with ReRanch, because I don't use nitrocellulose paint. I use acrylic based paints, and acrylic lacquers. They are cheap, with no difference in appearance, and do not yellow. I generally do not want anything that I paint to yellow.

In the case of this guitar, and any petrified finish from now on, I want the clear to be ultra hard, so I am using polyurethane for the final few coats.

ReRanch seems to be more for straight-forward traditional Fender/Gibson colours and paint schemes. I don't ever do that. I would be interested in trying their paint someday, though, but I have a feeling all of the raving over it is mostly hype. Nothing against them, but I'm going to guess there is no difference between the ReRanch clear that costs $16, or any department/hardware store nitro clear that costs $5. But, if you are wanting a specific Fender colour, then it seems perfect.

For the most part, unless it's really low quality stuff like Dollar General paint or something, paint is paint. It is up the person applying the paint to know how it is going to react to the way the object has been prepared, and how it is finished in terms of sanding and buffing. Department store paints like Krylon and Dupli-Color are very nice, and are very cheap.

Oh I agree ReRanch is costly. I love ReRanch colors. But their sealer & clear can be substituted with Parks, Deft, MaFadden and etc... Alot of the stuff being sold as "nitrocellulose lacquer" is a mixed bag... some age & some yellow. I know Deft won't age & yellow. And I know you can "check" (cracks) Parks lacquer. I hear ReRanch is McFadden (will age & check) paint packed in a spray can. McFadden like $33 a gallon, which makes 2 gallons when thinned for your Preval or Spray Gun.

Like you said poly will be extremely durable and look great ten years from now as it does today. I'd love to see that finish up close in person, I'm sure it's got more depth and dynamics then on my monitor.

From what I understand, it is not possible for a nitrocellulose paint to be non-yellowing. I thought it was just the nature of that type of paint. Is this incorrect?

As for the finish of the guitar, it does have quite a bit of depth -- more so than any other petrified finish I have ever done.

Nevermind, I guess I was wrong. I had no idea that Deft was non-yellowing. You would think they would mention that on the can.

I just checked my Deft spray can, it says "lacquer", not "nitrocellulose lacquer". I think the term lacquer is used so loosely... between... lacquer, nitrocellulose lacquer, acrylic lacquer, you never know what the hell your spraying.

I think it almost might be safe to say if it says "lacquer", it's acrylic. If it says "nitrocellulose lacquer" expect aging & checking...

Don't get me started on that bullshit "instrutment grade" vs "furniture grade" lacquer, that's even more confusing.

This project is now starting back up after a long break.

Something I realised the other day while sanding chrome hardware from a GFS SG kit for a friend -- under chrome hardware is a layer of nickel, and then a layer of COPPER.

I'm going to try using some hydrochloric acid to strip the chrome on scrap parts and see what happens. I think the nickel layer is very thin, so I will try stripping the chrome (which is usually thick and hard to sand) to the nickel layer, and then sand off the nickel to expose the copper.

If this works, this will be a great improvement over DIY electroplating (which is very thin), and copper-leafing parts (which is very fragile).

I'm wondering if dropping tuners in the acid will screw up the insides? Any thoughts on this?

maybe if there's bushings or plastic in it. if they're the factory tuners, they're probably made of metal, and worth the experiment for science.

household bleach will fuck up chrome, so it's not like you'll need 25 mol acid or anything.