Generic Boost pedal parts

James · Post by **James** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:26 am

Mike wrote:Those A boxes look lovely, check out the curved edges.

I think that might be why I went with Banzai over Musikding. I think Musikding only sold the Eddystone/sharper corner type and the rounded type look so good.

Post by **Mike** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:33 am

Neutrik Jacks aswell, Ahoyhoy.

James · Post by **James** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:37 am

Nerd.

How the bloody hell can you tell? The colour of the non-metal bit?

Post by **Mike** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:40 am

Yeah, it's fucking sad isn't it?

I can tell the brand of a jack from 10m. Probably blind folded if I could plug and unplug a cable into it also.

James · Post by **James** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 10:17 am

What's the mounting hole size for a jack? 9mm?

Post by **Mike** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 11:12 am

This will really nerd you out:

LED bezel (plastic) - 6.5 mm
LED bezel (metal) - 8 mm
DC jack - 12.5 mm
Pot - 7 mm
Jack - 9.5 mm
Toggle switch - 6 mm
Footswitch - 12 mm

James · Post by **James** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:15 pm

Mike 'Chuck Key' Livesley.

Post by **Mike** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:22 pm

I still haven't got a step-bit which is totally stupid of me.

I'm still doing this in increments like this:

3mm - all holes
5mm -> 7mm pots
5mm -> 8mm LEDs
5mm -> 7mm -> 9.5mm Jacks
5mm -> 7mm -> 9.5mm -> 12mm footswitch (+wiggle fo DC)

James · Post by **James** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:31 pm

Drilling 2mm first made things quite a lot easier. I went for a smaller hole the previous times I've done it but not quite that small.

I also have a 10mm or so bit this time. Before my largest was about 7mm so switches and the DC jack were always a bastard. This one is imperial but it's just under 10mm and perfect for jacks. Makes switches a lot easier too.

I was going to do a step-by-step 'make your own mini-booster' guide but my advice now is "don't". It's a bloody nightmare. It wouldn't have been so bad if I hadn't gone with 5mm LEDs. I was going to go with 3mm but Banzai only did 'Aqua' in 5mm and they had a matching knob. I'll still be taking pics. Will take some post drilling and gutshots with parts and all that.

I haven't even started the boards yet. I figured I'd just leave as much space as possible in one corner and take it from there. I was going to solder the boards to the pots, but that just seems ridiculous now. I think I'm probably doing a similar layout to the one you made for Kim. I'll compare once they're done.

Post by **Mike** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:33 pm

I have a 12mm drill, I can't imagine having to do switches and DC jacks without one. Mercy!

James · Post by **James** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 5:02 pm

I took a good shot of all of them but it's the only picture that didn't work. In fact it's the only picture that's ever not worked on my camera. Here's a not so good shot I took after trying to capture the angles of the mini-boosts. You can also see what will be the back of the loop pedal. Two pairs of send and return jacks with a DC jack hole in the middle. Also one of the loop pedal on it's own.

For all you pedal parts nerds, Banzai sent me two different types of Hammond Box. I have two boxes that were a slightly darker less smooth finish, and one that was the opposite. Inside they have different labelling too. In terms of dimensions they're the same. Lighter, smoother pedal on the left in both pics.

And a picture of them with primer.

Looking at these pics my drilling turned out way better than previous attempts.

Post by **Mike** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 5:04 pm

Yeah man, you're kicking arse. Way better than the two pedals I looked at for you in the past.

The one on the right of the two A-box picture is from the same series as the one I had in BB for Stewart's OCD. So fucking nice.

James · Post by **James** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 6:02 pm

So, Mike, tell me about pull-down resistors and input grounding. All I know about them is that I should be doing one of them.

Post by **Mike** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:01 pm

They prevent popping when you switch the effect on and off by ensuring that there is no DC Offset hanging around on the input cap which discharges to ground when the effect is selected causing a nasty POP noise.

Pulldown resistors mean there is a path to ground (albeit through a large resistance) which discharges this offset.

Grounded input means the FX input is grounded when not in use so there is NOTHING going on in the effect - this is what I use for all my effects - the added benefit is to get rid of any noise that can be transferred to the bypassed signal by oscillating pedals (Fuzz Factory) or LFO Noise (Trems/Delays).

This is input grounded. This is the shit. It uses two more jumpers than usual but it's SEXY.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/dia ... dcjack.gif

James · Post by **James** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:16 pm

The one I've been using is this one...

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/dia ... dcjack.gif

I understand what's happening in the one I've been using, but I don't understand this one properly. I'll draw up a new diagram using this type of switching for my loop pedal and post it for you to check if that's ok?

Post by **Mike** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:22 pm

Yup, no worries.

It can be a bit confusing but just look at the two switches differently.

First switch - Flips the FX input between Jack Input and Ground.
Second switch - Flips the Jack Output between FX Output and Jack Input
Third switch - Flips the LED between ON and OFF.

So, switch in Up position:

- FX input connected to Jack Input
- Jack output connected to FX output
- LED ON

switch in Down position

- FX input connected to Ground
- Jack output connected to Jack Input
- LED OFF

James · Post by **James** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:34 pm

This is incredibly messy. I probably shouldn't have done it in paint. I think I'm going to have a little bit of stripboard that the LEd's get connected to. I have some little offcut bits that would be ideal for it and it seems better than going to the same point all the time. So that's what the 9v area is about.

I was considering having it so the bypass LED is on when it's in bypass mode (so the opposite of what it's doing there) If I wanted to do that could I just wire it to the top left lug of that switch along with the little bypass jumper?

Post by **Mike** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:39 pm

You need to make two changes to do that.

Pink Jumper goes from bottom left lug to top centre lug.

LED cathode goes to to left lug.

James · Post by **James** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:48 pm

But if I have it so the LED is on when one of the loops is engaged, the diagram is correct?

Also, in this diagram

is R5 just a pull down resistor? could I use a jumper in it's place if I'm doing the sexy grounding? or should i just follow the layout still. and R1, the closest I have is 1M so I'm going to use that.

Post by **Mike** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:51 pm

If you're doing sexy grounding just omit R5. Don't put a jumper, that'll ground the input for all time = no signal in Boost mode.

I'll pack a 820K for you aswell bud. And yeah, Loops selected LED on is the diagram as you have it now.