The Billy1802t
Moderated By: mods
I think you are correct. I looked back at the white on white one and it is more spread out.tomin8r wrote:Knobs look a bit cramped to me from the pic, but everything else is fantastic. Great build!
My next step is to figure out how to make a square hole for the on-on slider switch. This will be used for an in-series and parallel switch for the two pickup combo. The original used it for a mid boost, but I have not looked up how this is done. I figure I will just drill a hole of the correct diameter and then take a small square file to it. A chisel may work as well to square the hole, but I don't know if I have one that small.
I *think* it's a bass cut switch, like a jaguar. I have an epiphone ET270, i'm pretty sure i took photo's of the insides, i'll post them here when i find them.
I say *think* because they were billed as 'bass boost' which wouldn't really work with a passive circuit.
Flick the switch one way, then turn the tone right down, it goes very quiet. I assume the Jag is the same?
			
			
													I say *think* because they were billed as 'bass boost' which wouldn't really work with a passive circuit.
Flick the switch one way, then turn the tone right down, it goes very quiet. I assume the Jag is the same?
					Last edited by Addam on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
									
			
									
						Made some progress.  Wired up the pickguard.  I cut the square hole for the switch.  I did a test on a piece of scrap material.  I traced the size of rectangle I needed and then found a drill bit that would be the same diameter. I then drilled two holes and that removed about 80% of the hole.  I took a sharp wood chisel and squared and shaped it.  Just put it on a block of wood and used hand pressure the make the cuts.  Worked very nice since I was only shaving off little bits.  I wired the mini DPDT so that in the up position both pickups in series. This will totally override the 3 way toggle switch.  Then when you put the switch in the down position, both pickups are in parallel and the 3 way toggle switch will function normally as a pickup selector.  Both pots are 250k and I used 0.047 uf orange drop cap. I just looked at what GFS used with their Brighton Rock kit to get the specs on the guts.
I came across a tremolo arm that looked like it was the correct one for this guitar.
LINK
It said the thread pattern was 10/32. So I dropped a dime and picked up a tester bolt. But it did not thread because there was a broken trem arm piece already up in it. I drilled it out, but did not have a small enough extractor on hand. I found a torx driver that slightly too big for the drilled hole and tapped it in with a hammer. Then I was able to unscrew it with a pliers. I took my 10/32 tap and cleaned up the threads. The tester bolt worked perfect and I ordered the part.
			
			
													I came across a tremolo arm that looked like it was the correct one for this guitar.
LINK
It said the thread pattern was 10/32. So I dropped a dime and picked up a tester bolt. But it did not thread because there was a broken trem arm piece already up in it. I drilled it out, but did not have a small enough extractor on hand. I found a torx driver that slightly too big for the drilled hole and tapped it in with a hammer. Then I was able to unscrew it with a pliers. I took my 10/32 tap and cleaned up the threads. The tester bolt worked perfect and I ordered the part.
					Last edited by cur on Wed Feb 23, 2011 4:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
									
			
									
						- weed_killer
 - .

 - Posts: 205
 - Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:41 pm
 - Location: Hamilton, ON
 
So here is where I am at now.  Except I installed the chrome strap buttons; not in pictures.
Been working on the setup. Had to lower the bridge all the way and also shim the neck.  Action is pretty low.  I adjusted the truss rod and intonation was pretty much spot on.  Slight buzz on 13th fret, but it might go away with a little more tweaking.  So small adjustments from hear on. It also needs a new nut.  It seems like it has a left handed nut on it. It is a stock plastic nut, but the high e string side of the nut is noticeably higher than the low E.  The low E is about right.   The high side is awkwardly high from the G to e.  So I will bring it into Gurus and have a bone nut made (treat myself).
			
			
									
									
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- hotrodperlmutter
 - crescent fresh
 - Posts: 16665
 - Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 10:29 pm
 - Location: Overland Park, KS, USA
 
I still can.  Actually I have enough pickguard material left to cut another one.  Was thinking of doing this and cut it for humbuckers or something else.  Then all I would have to do is slack the strings and use a quick connect to swap ground.
Oh, I also used that adhesive copper shielding. The thing was humming pretty good with out it.
			
			
									
									
						Oh, I also used that adhesive copper shielding. The thing was humming pretty good with out it.
Well dropped it off at Guru Guitars.  At minimum I am getting a fret level and a new nut cut.  Frets are kind of wonky after 40 years.  I told them to figure out what need to be done and let me know.  The neck is cool.  It starts out as a round c-neck at the nut and flattens out to a flat D shape at the butt of the guitar.  
It looks like it is going to warm up around here soon enough. So I might get to painting in the near future.
			
			
									
									
						It looks like it is going to warm up around here soon enough. So I might get to painting in the near future.
- hotrodperlmutter
 - crescent fresh
 - Posts: 16665
 - Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 10:29 pm
 - Location: Overland Park, KS, USA
 
				  







