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So, to clarify, you shoot the first coat of poly on the neck, then steel wool it, then shoot the tint and other coats?

Pens wrote:So, to clarify, you shoot the first coat of poly on the neck, then steel wool it, then shoot the tint and other coats?

i first strip the neck, which ever way you need to , do it, sand it , in this case, i actually had to scrape off the million coats of either nitrocellulose laquer or polyurethane that was on this neck along the sides before scoring the straight line down the sides of the neck for the binding channel because the top coat on this neck was sooo thick that when i first tried to score/cut into the sides to make my straight line, it started to CHIP away unevenly, so there was no way i would be able to leave the original laquer on this neck like my CIJ jaguar,

i actually scraped it all off with these flat squarish knives from the exacto blade set that i use for the bindings and block holes,
this is the set of exacto blades i get each time i do a neck, by the time i finish one neck, this entire exacto blade set is shot, all the blades either snap in half,break, get dull or chip themselves, so i need to always buy a new set for each neck, gets kinda costly



look how fuckin thick this shit was, the chips i scraped off this neck of the finish was like pieces of amber from "Jurasic park"



if you look at the picture of the blades , in the top left, the 3rd blade fom the row of blades you see, is the blade i used to scrape this entire neck, before sanding it down with 100 grit sand paper (dry), than 150 grit and finally 200 grit dry sand paper,

than with the "STEEL WOOL PADS" i use 3 different grades of the steel wool, i just go to the dollar store and get a packet of the seel wool pads, from a thicker wool to a very thin one that is very fine,

i use the very fine steel wool , i believe it is 0000 grade steel wool, the specific brand i get from the dollar store doesnt hve the grit or grade of it written on the package, it just says , thick, medium , and very fine for finishing it says,
i steel wool the hell out of it until it feel so smooth like a satin finished neck would feel,

than i spray it down with polyurethane, about 2 to 3 coats, and let dry over night, i use to just sand it down with up to 250 grit sand paper, spray with poly and than wet sand at 800 grit before staining, but this way is better, easier because if you prep the neck good enough with the steel wool , you wont have to wetsand the neck after the 2 coats of polyurethane "Before coating it with a stain,


i know it might sound "BACKWORDS">, but trust me, this is how you get the neck to stain evenly and not soak deep into the wood and make "little specs and blotches", ill post a picture below of the neck now, which is NOT Stained yet, but sitting on a wooden cabinet in my bathroom and you can see the difference in the stain, how the cabinet has little specs and darker spots and the neck is an even color, and will look the same but im gonna stain it and it will look as it is now but darker, (stained), thats how i do it

the polyurethane coats before the stain prevents the stain from actually touching the wood, therefore not soaking into it and making blotches and look like shit like the cabinet its laying on in the photo below





and also i forgot to mention i use Miniwax Pre Stain Wood Conditioner, just wipe it on the neck, than rub it into it, leave for a coule minutes than wipe off the excess, almost like staining it, but it just kinda seals the wood , you can get it at home epot or walmart, online, etc,.



i used to use a dark amber varnish long time ago, when i first started doing this kinda work, like 9- 10 months ago, and the varnish was so thick and dark, you woouldnt see or notice any little specs or blotches, so thats why i used to use it, but only on 2 necks until i figured this out, thank god, because those necks looked almost "Orange:" after the coats of polyurethane, because the polyurethane gives an amber tint as it is, so those necks i did in the past with the varnish looked like crap, i know, i even remember someone making fun of those 2 necks on here saying that they looked like they were "Jersey shore tanned looking necks", and that person said they would rather have the neck "Bare wood" than that ugly color, and i completely agree,, that is why i did my research and found out how to stain a neck this way.

look at how dark this neck is and ugly the color, this is my first neck i ever B&B'd, the Warmoth neck i bought for my first guitar modd, that jagmaster i turned into a jaguar jazzmaster hybrid like it really shouldve been, if it wanted to live up to its name, "Jagmaster", but i learned my lesson, never make it look like this again,... ughhh



and this is how i make my necks look now, the top neck is a mex tom delong strat neck i recently did, and sold, and the bottom neck you see is another mex strat neck, tom delong, that i turned into a cbs jazzmaster B&B neck for someone, and the mij jazzmaster above mine is much darker than how i made the CBS jazzmaster neck i replaced that guys guitar with,



this was the jazzmaster i remodeled for a customer , with that CBS headstock he wanted for his brand new MIJ jazzmaster, i actually like my stain better than the MIJ neck, that looked "Orange if you ask me, atleast you cant say the neck i replaced it with was Orange,



the MIJ looked orange for sure,





here i go getting off topic sometimes or not only off topic, but talking about a million things at once , but look how even the headstock looked and how close to the vintage CBS jazzmaster neck he wanted me to replicate, although that damn truss rod hole was there, which he didnt mind, but i wouldnt keep that neck just because of the hole, i am picky with what i keep for a neck, i ,mean come on, thats really my specialty, and what i do the most, but look at the comparison of how close i got that neck to look like the vintage one on the top right in the image below



and that neck was hard because he wanted me to keep the serial number, but sand of the "Made In Mexico" part of the serial number, than i had to match the stain of the color behind the serial number, because i had to leave the numbers and color behind it, it was pretty tuff, but made it that more fun,





anyway, here is a shot of how my first B&B neck looked compared to a recent one which i liked alot, if i liked strats, i wouldve kept that neck on the right in the image below



the neck on the left is inlayed with "real mother of pearl block inlays, my first inlay job and i used real MOP, that was real tuff to get flush with the fretboard, i had to use a "Dremel" with the sanding/grinding drill bit, and the dust and crap that was grinding off of the pearl blocks smelled like when your at the dentist and your getting your teeth drilled, it smelled discusting, like bone, its actually a shell and was chipping if i wasnt careful,

but honestly, i like the plastic celluliod pearliod material i used in the neck on the right of the image above, i like the pattern in the blocks better than the "Real mother of pearl"



"ANYWAY" BACK TO THE TOPIC, before i get my head chopped off by these guys that hate when i post pics, let me atleast get back to this guys question, if you sand the neck down, and than use "STEEL WOOL," it will come out real nice and smooth, and than you can spray it with polyurethane, i SERIOUSLY recommend "MINIWAX polyurethane, either semi-gloss or gloss, i mostly use gloss, it self settles , not bumpy when it dries, it comes out real smooth and makes it easier to wetsand , MINIWAX is the shit, im telling you, screw nitrocellulose , that stuff is so hard, that youll be wet sanding for a week, i used it on the body of my jagmaster project, and wished i wouldve just used polyurethane, but got the job done, but litterally took me all week to wetsand and keep buffing with trutlewax to get it finally smooth , crazy, never again with nitro for me....

this is how the Mascis neck looked when i steel wooled it



nice and smooth



and now look at it, this is just after steel wool, pre stain wood conditioner and than i sprayed it down twice with polyurethane, AND NOT sanded after yet, or steel wool, nothing, this is it just sprayed if you prep it right, i did not wet sand yet and look how smooth it is,



another shot



and now ill leave you guys alone for a couple hours and get back to work, im doing the frets now, it is too cold out today to spray it outside and stain and spray and stain, and spray than wet sand, too cold, it could possibly fuck up the whole project, you have top time these things right and do them in the right twmperature too, sometimes its a pisser in the winter, this kind of painting sucks in the winter, unless you want you house to smell like polyurethane, im not permitted to spray anywhere in my house or garage, i go outside, hold it by the heel, spray it down outside, and quickly bring it inside to dry, and it smells up the house for a day or two, but its just something i have no control over,


this is it now, im doing the frets watching 2 and a half men, i honestly cant wait to see how its gonna look stained and with the decal, i have to do frets now though, because today is freezing, it will never dry and probably be very bumpy and bubbly if i sprayed it today and possibly fuck up the decal. so im just fretting it, taking my time, because all i need to do is finish up the fretting and decal it and finish it, probably tommorow

Pens wrote:So, to clarify, you shoot the first coat of poly on the neck, then steel wool it, then shoot the tint and other coats?

if its bumpy , "Orange peel" after the first couple polyurethane coats, than yes, i would lightly wetsand it not steel wool , only steel wool the wood, the wool might get stuck in the poly, i have red threads about that happening, forget steel wool once your already spraying and staining, thats when you get 800-1000-1500-2000-2500- grits of wetsand paper, you get it at automotive store, like R&S strauss or walmart, homedepot doesnt carry such high grits of wetsandpaper

frets are all done, just gotta level them and do the fretboard work, scrape off the glue around the frets from underneath them, then sand the fretboard and frets, and finally polish the frets, thean all i need to do is stain, decal and poly,




looks like crap now, but just wait, its will look like this soon enough,

my CIJ JAGUAR NECK I DID,




i also did the finish on this jaguar neck , it was not as thick as this jazzmaster neck, and i was able to just cut out the channels for the bindings without the paint chipping away, so i just had to be careful cutting, and than match a couple areas with the same stain, than do two cans of polyurethane , i think this was my best work because i was able to bind the neck without having to strip it or sand it down during or before, i was able to do bindings and blocks, while keeping the original stain and finish, just adding more over the original, to cover the bindings in the finish (Polyurethane) so it looked as one




im shooting for the mascis to look like this as far as the fretboard color and maple stain, with the same gloss poly,

my CIJ






and i know the original decal shouldve stayed on the Mascis squier jazzmaster neck, but the circumstances where different , the way the paint chipped away, it would be almost impossible to not only match the color of the stain, but to fill in the spots that chippied away to make the finish smooth, so in this case, the neck had to be stripped as a whole, and left me no choice but to use a restoration decal and unfortunatly, the company i order my restoration decals from, which is the best ive ever worked with, they dont supply "SQUIER" decals, just the major decals like jazzmaster jaguar strat etc,.not squier......


so in this case, sorry to those that thought squier would've looked cooler but in my eyes, after all the money, work, and time put into the neck, i dont even consider it a squier anymore, its beyond that, and deserves a nice restoration decal like the "Fender jazzmaster im using

paulk1 wrote:

cobascis wrote:

cobascis wrote:How much do you think you'll be selling this for when complete?

It depends high high the bids go where I'm going to sell it, all my necks usually sell for generally the same price,in the 300-35o range, but this going to be the only and first j Mascis squier modified bound and blocked jazzmaster neck, I think it might go higher, I'll start the bidding at 325 though and let it run for about a week,

Only answering a question asked, not trying to sell it here

Oh you are just selling the neck not the body?

The body, no way, that's they only thing I kept, every thing else is pretty much gone, I got the American 4 ply tortoise shell pickguard, waiting for the Mexican tailpiece which should've came today, and just ordered the neck and bridge America jazzmaster pickups to wire into this setup, I fixed the distorted sound it came with, there were two wires touching eachother connected to the toggle switch , but I'm not crazy about the pickups, so I spent the extra 87 bucks for the 2 pups, I like the original stock american jazzmaster pickups better than these, these are just like the classic player , I probably will post these pickups in the classifieds, other than that, I already sold everything else I didnt want off the body and replaced those parts, I really like the body, color and its terse ally good quality, and made of basswood just like the made in Japan jazzmasters if that means anything, I couldn't tell the difference in the wood, but this aged white and tortoise shell pickguard is my favorite color combination on jags and jazzmasters, so no, sorry, not selling the body, in fact I'm ordering my new neck for the body tommorow. Warmoth CBS strat neck with a thin back contour, blank, not frets or string nut, I'm gonna do the same job to that neck so I already to Warmoth just to send the fret wire on the side like they did with my last neck from them, all the money I am putting into this, I could've gotten a classic player but can't find one with this color and wouldn't find one with a B&B CBS headstock neck, I prefer to just build this one from pretty much scratch, considering I replaced everything but the wiring and body, I was impressed with how good the wiring looked, just needed some work, but I'm keeping the wiring , just switching the pups

Gotcha, yeah I have 0000 steel wool but I've never used it on bare wood, that's why I asked. I only use it to polish metal. That part just sounded odd to me, but after my recent work with finishing a neck one thing that drove me nuts was the random bumpies I got after the first few coats despite starting off with finish sanding the bare wood with 1000 grit. Next time I'll try the wool. Thanks for that tip.

I considered doing a binding on my MIJ Jag neck but then reconsidered when I saw the kurtz jag and realized his was bound. Still, looks pretty to me.

Pens wrote:Gotcha, yeah I have 0000 steel wool but I've never used it on bare wood, that's why I asked. I only use it to polish metal. That part just sounded odd to me, but after my recent work with finishing a neck one thing that drove me nuts was the random bumpies I got after the first few coats despite starting off with finish sanding the bare wood with 1000 grit. Next time I'll try the wool. Thanks for that tip.

I considered doing a binding on my MIJ Jag neck but then reconsidered when I saw the kurtz jag and realized his was bound. Still, looks pretty to me.

Maybe the real jag Kurt used had a better bound neck , but did you see the " Kurt cobain limited edition relic jaguar fender put out", with the white binding on the tiny headstocked neck, and that weird decal for a jaguar, what's the deal with that, when I first saw it, I thought someone just made a relic modd claiming its a real fender model, and used that "Allparts bound strat neck" but than realized it couldn't be that because of the scale being 24 inch, but with that Tiny headstock, it really looks like that "Allparts sro- whatever strat neck, I mean come on, doesn't fender know that Jaguars have like one of the coolest/ biggest headstocks, and for it to be a custom shop, they could've made it a little more realistic, " Kurt just taped up the upper controls on his jag so when he played he wouldn't keep hitting the upper controls while strumming real hard, and maybe added a third master control pot, possibly to bring the tone down ode for volume control, than fender went a little to far and added a toggle switch and slide switch together with 3 pots at the master control plate and nothing different with the upper controls, than scratched it up a little, slapped on a bound neck with a tiny headstock and overpriced it., I've seen those Kurt edition jAguars on eBay for like 2-3 grand, what? I said to myself, I can have my dog make an uglier modd, he watches me work all the time, but if I was going to pay that much for a guitar, it sure as hell won't be that one and I'm sure even Kurt would agree

Kurt cobain is what I grew up on and was a big influence in the music world for me and I even knew right away that the people that designed that guitar just used his name to try to get people with money and haven't got a clue to buy that thing, I don't know, I'm sorry if one of you guys like that guitar, but it's definetly not correct as far as Kurt cobains specs go

this is what i mean by "i thought it was the allparts bound neck, look at the simularities, the headstock for one, than the same white bindings and if you look at the heel area shot, even the frets are simular, what is that ?,. super jumbo damn



now for the body and controls, look at the REAL Kurts Jaguar, i just see electric tape on the control plates, upper and lower, yeah, there are 3 control pots, i dont wanna say volue, or tone, because who the hell really knows, but than look at what fender did to it,



ATLEAST, atleast, "Fender JAPAN" got the neck right, and didnt throw it aound in the parking lot of "Fenders warehouse to make it look like the mexican one with the tiny headstock




<sup>if i was going to pay that much, i would definetly go with the "Fener Japan" version. not the relic knock off with the tiny headstock, for that kinda money i would rather have the guitar with the nice finish and a real jaguar neck on it, thats just me, i think Kurt thought the beat up one was cool but thats Kurt. and he can afford to have which ever, in fact he probably was sick of the money and didnt want a flashy shiny new jaguar to show it off, that part i do know,

but me, without the kinda money Kurt had, and if i were to pay that much, i would defininetly go with the flashy shiny Fender japan version, i dont know, it seems fender japan comes out with cooler stuff than mexico or america, atleast now at days,

like i said before, i am getting the "Hollow body sunburst fender japan jaguar, and its in that same price range, and you best believe im not going to tie it to my fender company car and drive it around the parking lot of the warehouse to make it look old

whats the point of that, talking about using decals and making necks not really what they are, or maybe what they are but using the more expensive looking decal on a cheaper squier neck, what i have to say to that is, atleast im making that squier jazzmaster neck earn its "fender jazzmaster " decal, by putting in the money and time, with work, that its worth what the mexican classic player jazzmaster is,

not only saying that because its worth it, meaning to me, but litterally, with the supplies, tools and all, its really valued at that price , this stuff gets expensive as shit, you guys think i just pull this stuff out of my tool box or closet and start building a B&B neck, its not that simple, do you know how many times i have to step out to home depot or walmart, i know walmart sounds cheesey, but honestly, (they carry the same glues and miniwax products i use) and have to spend 40 here ,...30 there, 50 in this shipment 25 in that one, talking about bindings, blocks, decal , frets, stains, drill bits, drill,fret tang nippers 30, and they get dull and un-use-able after a couple necks, sand papers, 5x 4 packets, for a little packet of wetsand paper,all the loos, the exacto blade knife kits, 25 a piece, and after im finished with a neck, that goes to the trash, each blade is shot, polyurethane 8 bucks x 2, the stains, depends, atleast 10 including the stain for the fretboard, and pre- stain-wood conditioner, the glue,and im not talkin elmer's, that loctite proffesional grade glue that burns your eyes when its open and you sitting 4 feet away from it, thats the real shit, 8 buckks, and thats just for the bindings, if any left over i mix it in with the duco cement or any other multipurpose cement i have for the block inlays, , and if you using " real mother of pearl< forget about it, not only its twice the work and time to shape it, flatten, grind etc, those blocks are twice the price of the celluliod, and not even as cool looking, to me atleast, i prefer celluliod, for the better grain patterns in the block, but easier to work with too, and cost a little less, not much, i mean ive seen some cheapo (pre-cut ) blocks on ebay for as cheap as 10 dollars, but they have them laying on a piece of fretboard for the picture, and they are like those "Les Paul" inlays, very TALL and NARROW, fuck that, id rather spend the money, get the sheet for 40 and cut the blocks and shape them to the specs i think they should be for each individual neck, there are no (2) necks exactly the same, i have ordered the same neck on more than one occasion, and really its not the same neck, yeah the nut size is the same, thats made with a bunch of other nuts pumped out of a machine so they are exact, sure, you can pump out a neck of a machine the way it is finished, there is no way i can see a ,machine, installing blocks and bindings into a fretboard and knowing whether it is centered properly and fretted correctly, hey, i could be wrong and there could be a "Johnny 5" out there making B&B necks, but i bet you the quality is not the same, and acurate , and probably look retarted like "Les Paul " or Warmoth block inlays, i like Warmoth basic untouched, unfretted necks, yeah, but check out their Bound and blocked necks, that take "8" weeks to make, or atleast thats what they tell you it will take , and theres a shit load of stuff i didnt and not gonna mention thats involved in "the making of" a B&B neck, like googles for instance, the once that rap around your skin so that glue doesnt burn your eyes out, or poisonous fretboard dust doesnt make you blind, fret levelers, you think that stuff is free or just is there, even down to the damn turtle wax to get rid of the final swirls you can only see if you twist the neck in certian angles in the sunlight, the turtle wax and car scratch removel wax gets rid of that, thats how detailed i get with the finish



anyway, speaking of Warmoth necks, yeah, im buying the CBS strat neck blank, dont want them to do anything to it, no frets, nut, nothing, i just like their plain old untouched neck, otherwise if you want a bound and blocked neck, (unfinished) , yeah lic by fender but not fender this is what youll get that takes 8 weeks to make for them with a full staff, machinery and money,



and i personally dont like it, just take a look at the first fret marker (block), its smaller that the rest of them, whats up with that, than notice the over hang at the heel, not "jazzmaster like" and they bound it?, thats wierd, i actually cut that overhang off when i ordered that warmoth nek from them while i was binding it, one fret less, what the hell right?, i dont go that high.... anyway,

thats an unfinished one and look at the price, they dont have one in stock but when they did it was $560.oo, just use the "Neck builder " application or whatever you call it on the website, or call um.. ask how long they take to make you the neck you want and how much



while your at it, give "Guitar center a ring and ask them how much does it cost to refrett your "bound neck", tell them its "bound" see what they say,



"NO LIE $360.00 JUST TO REFRET YOUR BOUND NECK thats three hundred and sixty DOLLARS to put frets in?

wow!, if i worked there, i wouldve made $360.00 this morning before lunch, i dont even know if my doctor (reumotologist) makes that much, and thats a specialty in the medical proffesion, not just some quack

and if you have a problem with your frets, you sorta have to go to either guitar center or sam ash for a refret unless you know how to do it yourself or you find someone honest a decent on this site or another, because not even "Fender will do it for you

this was disheartening to read, my favorite guitar manufactor and what i look up to, wont repair your guitar with their own custom shop, i guess it takes you having to be someone super famous like Kurt Cobain to get something done by my favorite company,



"DON'T get me wrong, i am not trying to put fender down or knock it in any way, they have there limitations and i respect that, if everyone wanted their guitars customized and fixed by "Fender" they would have their hands full, maybe too much,"

but than again, look at "Apple, they have billions of customers with their products and i can always make an appointment with an "Apple Genious" , which maybe might help me to learn how to spell correctly, haha, but for real, they take returns, fix your computer with their wanrranties and for free sometimes, wahtever you need, you can walk into a apple store and there will be too many people trying to help you, but when it come to this, when i got "this j mascis squier jazzmaster in the mail and plugged it in, and it sounded like light distortion with half the volume as the upper controls, who was there to help, i right away called the store i ordered it from and the guy was like, uh uh uh , honestly, we didnt even play that one, they came in and we just had one hanging on our display, but never got around to play it, maybe something happened in shipping,

yeah right, that guitar was packed up and boxed so good, that some wire on the inside of the guitar just so happened to end up touch ing eachother, im not so sure about that,

point is, i couldnt just bring it to the nearest "Apple store", meaning Fender and get a tune up


another thing i forgot to mention, i recently became fond of doing Bound and blocked strat necks, because you dont really see them, i know on ebay the only one now is that "sro-1-5-4-3-2-1-pro" by allparts and for a long time was this "eric johnson nBound strat neck, no blocks though



and got the idea/inspiration from this picture i saw of a all bound hollow body and neck with blocks, strat from "Fender Japan, " again, i think fender Japan comes out with the coolest stuff, i havent even seen this guitar since this photo of it in some forum



if you notice, the side dots on the binding of the neck are under the binding, i think thats cool and always thought of trying to do that but scared to fuck it up, so i never tried yet, but that is one of my goals one day, to master that, it will leave the biniding nice and solid all the way around the neck and is almost like a MIJ Or CIJ, Jaguar, how the side dots are underneath the fretboard


now, i think i spoke about a million different things at one, if not than im close, but in closing, the "Fender japan guitars, " i will be owning another one next month, i only a couple hundred shy of having enough towards a new guitar, and it will be this sunburst Jaguar HO its called. 2,100



some of the pics look so good it looks like a drawing, seriously, but i saw it on youtube and it just sounds so crispy, i need it

this guy in japan was playing a black one, ill take the sunburst though, but either way, that and the hollow body jazzmaster i think are the two coolest guitars fender has made in the present time..

i wish i could get both, but not realistic, it was either macbook pro and the hollow jag, or both guitars , and cant do it, i need both worlds to operate,




i wish i spent one day in japan, this is where i would be, the whole day



holy shit, its bright out, i got up to go to the bathroom, started smoking a ciggerette, and now its bright out, thats all it takes, a reply in my thread, and i here Fender, and have to post everything on my mind about that, or else i wouldnt be able to go back to sleep, its like i live eat sleep and whatever they say, not sleep guitars, if anyone really does their research on this stuff and knows it pretty well, i give myself that credit, yes i am limited to what i know, mainly these offset guitars by fender, but i know my shit when it comes to it</sup>

Im not a store and don't try to sell everything, in fact I mostly pay to have this fun, I hardly get back what I paid if sell something I made, and this isn't the classifieds and I'm not a promoter, the picture I post with a price tag is something that is not mine, "exacto blades" for example or those guitars that I have nothing to do. With, and I do Compare my neck modd style to others for my own reference, I know what I like and don't, and know its wrong to show the difference, and I. Don't say how much, others ask, just to clarify that because I don't want this thread turn into a whorehouse, again, I was first asked "How much" I don't push it, in fact I'm not even selling it on here, so please don't bash me or turn this. Thread into a joke , I have the right to talk about other products just as everyone else does, I might have long replies, but that's just how into the whole guitar topic gets me

So thanks for viewing my project not add

Guitar shops always make money by charging heavy for work customers don't know how to do themselves. The fact that people still pay up to £50 for a basic set-up is crazy to me. Especially as it only takes a few minutes. The thought of doing the intonation on a guitar is too much for some people so it doesn't shock me that they'd want twice the money to re-fret a neck with binding. Gibson players beware.

I'm always surprised at how many guitar players (and often long time guitar players) know basically nothing about servicing their instruments beyond changing the strings.

As far as the KC Jaguar goes, all the controls/small headstock/decal are like that because apparently that's what Cobain's guitar was like so it makes sense. I prefer te Japanese one too, tho it's not as accurate a reproduction as the KC sig. There's a thread about it in the shortscales section. HERE.

i got more parts in the mail today as i was staining the neck, the only reason its taking me this long is because of the damn freezing weather, the polyurethane would get messed up if i attempted to spray it outside in the last past couple days, but after staining it within this hour, i will spray it down today by just sticking out my window, and spraying it than quickly bringing it into my roon, to dry, than decal it, than spray, wetsand and stain the frtboard walnut/almost ebony, but not dark enough to cover the grain, i want the grain to show on the fretboard. but the walnut really makes the pearl blocks stand out more,

here are some shots of right now, im so into it right now, i dont even want to upload shots and post them , i want to keep working, but want to update my thread so have to do what i gotta do, i got another set of tuners so i can pass this neck on with tuners on it, loaded as they say on ebay, anyway, and i got more frets for someone neck im going to be starting, which is gonna be alot because im getting my warmoth cbs neck soon and want to work on that BAD to get my guitar done and play it, i ordered the tuners i want also the mustang "65' F" tuners, like i had on my last guitar that was this color, they came individually packackeged, 11.99 each, they were expensive and another set of vintage gotoh nickel tuners fender for this neck and the mascis ones are going on someone jaguar neck im starting once that comes in the mail, from PA, than im getting the "Fender Jazzmaster decal with the same exact PAT # that my new tailpiece came with, the guy that does my decals will do that for me, and it will be the 68 decal that i did on someone else's MIJ jazzmaster cbs strat toom delong headstock, "Black with gold trim on the "Fender" and no swirls, because i think it will be the better decal for the huge ass cbs headstock im getting from warmoth, i compared all my options for a new neck for me, and out of all pic, the warmoth cbs is the biggest, with a thin back profile, its gonna be awsome, like my CIJ jaguar neck, actually same stlye decal,

it will be nice and with the mustang tuners


real quick, cuz i didnt eat yet and gotta alot to do, heres some " gonna modd this shots"



another




another, this neck i did a while back for that MIJ jazzmaster from philly,

but the decal im getting for my guitar and im getting it custom to have the same PAT # as my tailpiiece, but i wont have the ugly truss hole at the headstock like that one, im having the truss rod at the heel








vfv



and getting american stock jazzmaster pickups, neck and bridge probably tommororw in the mail, shouldve been here today, i hate my postal code, my shit always ends up in the next town over, than to my town, slows the shipping sometimes,

yeah the masicis was a cool idea, but not enough for me, im sorry to those that think i killed it, but i didnt buy it for the mascis, i bought it for the wood, the body, im sorry, the mascis wasnt my intention, a jazzmaster build was and couldnt find a already painted off white jazzmaster body anywhere, ebay has tons of sunburst but i never see this body, and i search ebay alot,



typing in between the photo




i think im gonna order these style master volume and tone knobs, i know ill find them on the bay




anyway, im starving and gotta get back to work, later guys, im surprised i didnt get chewed up for that huge post with Kurt cobains jag and the hollow body, thanks for not ripping on my thread

Pens wrote:Gotcha, yeah I have 0000 steel wool but I've never used it on bare wood, that's why I asked. I only use it to polish metal. That part just sounded odd to me, but after my recent work with finishing a neck one thing that drove me nuts was the random bumpies I got after the first few coats despite starting off with finish sanding the bare wood with 1000 grit. Next time I'll try the wool. Thanks for that tip.

I considered doing a binding on my MIJ Jag neck but then reconsidered when I saw the kurtz jag and realized his was bound. Still, looks pretty to me.

I just thoroughly red you post. , I'm sorry, I thought you were "Just " asking about "how to prep the neck before" Only" and didn't realize you said " little bumpies after spraying the 1000 grit sanded bare wood, no matter how smooth something you spray is, and how good your spray us, you'll always get those " little bumpies". , which are refered to as " Orange peel", I mean it you could spray glass it's self, but you have to not steel wool it after you spray. Before you spray , than you have to have to have to " wetsand and buff", starting out with something like 800 or a 1000 grit wet wet sand paper, get from an automotive store, Walmart in the automotive section, or if you live in woodsy area and can't really find places like that than just jump off a cliff or a really tall tree. No wait, there's gotta be a better solution, like dish washing liquid, a drop into a container of water. Let your wet sand paper sit in it for a couple hours atleast before wet sanding to soften the paper part of the wetsand sand paper, trust me just do it, than after you spray about 4 coats, let dry real. Good, atleast a day, than wet sand with your 800-1000 grit sandpapers lightly but non-stop until you don't see those " little bumpies", thand go on a keep spraying it down with which ever finishing product your using, I end up using, " Miniwax gloss or semi-gloss" polyurethane spray, it could even be spar-urethane, but laquer is a lot harder to wetsand, before we lose track, after the first few coats are wetsanded with 800- or 100o and your bumpies are gone, the next few coats, wet sand with sonething finer like 1500, than buy that time you should be getting less bumpies, than as you move forward and give it your set of coats , sometimes I use one can only , sometimes and mostly 2 cans, because I first spray it down before applying my " translucent gel stain" evenly over the polyurethane to prevent it from soaking into to wood and looking like a shity chair stained or looking like the neck was painted by a human, the only way threw experience I learned myself , and trust I've done this more than once, don't even listen to the guy that works at "Benjamin Moore , pearl paints, Walmart, or home depot, they dont know shit, they are thinking of staing and finishing a cabinet or chair when your talking to them, not one stick of wood with a small area of wood that every spec stands out, and will be seen, real quick, when I first started using "Miniwax pre-stain wood conditioner for before I spray, because polyurethane is oil based too and can possibly leave darker spots but more unlikely because of its thickness, but anyway back to what I was saying, I went to home depot and asked the "tool" that worked specifically in the painters section( the one that mixes the paint ). I ,asked about the pre-stain stuff, so he picks it up and starts reading the back of the label to me on what exactly it does, otherwise he hadn't a clue when I first mentioned it., I actually told him " are you serious or joking?", he said " what?", than I knew he was serious and than I replied, I can read, let me see that, and thanks anyway, same with "Walmart" paint section , some big guy did the same thing with me when asking about their stains, what the hell, where was I, anyway, after 1000 grit or even 1500 your still not done yet, this is after spraying I'm talking about not just steel wool before hand, you then move on to 2000 grit wet sand, "home depot " doesn't carry such high grit so don't even go there I know for a fact, Walmart, r&s Strauss , possibly k-mart, places that carry automotive products like turtle, those are the places you will find such high grit, or simply google it and you'll have to pay shipping though, anyway, sometimes I go as high as 2,500, if they have it, you know I bought out all the high gloss poly and 1000 and up wet sand from my nearest Walmart and they haven't restocked in about 2 months, bastards, I keep telling them too, I guess I'm the only one that buys that kinda shot from them, otherwise someone else would've said something and they would have it already, I have drive out a few twins away to get this stuff now, anyway, it's funny, I'm spraying the neck this morning and am taking pics of that "0range peel bumpies " for you, I'm actually holding the neck out of the bathroom window after decaling it earlier, and finally, after atleast 1 full can of this repeat process, and after you 2000 wetsand, and male sure it's atleast 36 hours dry, than buff out the final microscopic swirls with turtle wax , follow those directions. ,and I use and recommend another , 2nd type of wax or paste that gives it a stunning glow and shine, not just a removel but a actual shine product , anyway gotta walk the dog he's starring at me, be back

i love this thread.

[I just thoroughly red you post. , I'm sorry, I thought you were "Just " asking about "how to prep the neck before" Only" and didn't realize you said " little bumpies after spraying the 1000 grit sanded bare wood, no matter how smooth something you spray is, and how good your spray us, you'll always get those " little bumpies". , which are refered to as " Orange peel", I mean it you could spray glass it's self, but you have to not steel wool it after you spray. Before you spray , than you have to have to have to " wetsand and buff", starting out with something like 800 or a 1000 grit wet wet sand paper, get from an automotive store, Walmart in the automotive section, or if you live in woodsy area and can't really find places like that than just jump off a cliff or a really tall tree. No wait, there's gotta be a better solution, like dish washing liquid, a drop into a container of water. Let your wet sand paper sit in it for a couple hours atleast before wet sanding to soften the paper part of the wetsand sand paper, trust me just do it, than after you spray about 4 coats, let dry real. Good, atleast a day, than wet sand with your 800-1000 grit sandpapers lightly but non-stop until you don't see those " little bumpies", thand go on a keep spraying it down with which ever finishing product your using, I end up using, " Miniwax gloss or semi-gloss" polyurethane spray, it could even be spar-urethane, but laquer is a lot harder to wetsand, before we lose track, after the first few coats are wetsanded with 800- or 100o and your bumpies are gone, the next few coats, wet sand with sonething finer like 1500, than buy that time you should be getting less bumpies, than as you move forward and give it your set of coats , sometimes I use one can only , sometimes and mostly 2 cans, because I first spray it down before applying my " translucent gel stain" evenly over the polyurethane to prevent it from soaking into to wood and looking like a shity chair stained or looking like the neck was painted by a human, the only way threw experience I learned myself , and trust I've done this more than once, don't even listen to the guy that works at "Benjamin Moore , pearl paints, Walmart, or home depot, they dont know shit, they are thinking of staing and finishing a cabinet or chair when your talking to them, not one stick of wood with a small area of wood that every spec stands out, and will be seen, real quick, when I first started using "Miniwax pre-stain wood conditioner for before I spray, because polyurethane is oil based too and can possibly leave darker spots but more unlikely because of its thickness, but anyway back to what I was saying, I went to home depot and asked the "tool" that worked specifically in the painters section( the one that mixes the paint ). I ,asked about the pre-stain stuff, so he picks it up and starts reading the back of the label to me on what exactly it does, otherwise he hadn't a clue when I first mentioned it., I actually told him " are you serious or joking?", he said " what?", than I knew he was serious and than I replied, I can read, let me see that, and thanks anyway, same with "Walmart" paint section , some big guy did the same thing with me when asking about their stains, what the hell, where was I, anyway, after 1000 grit or even 1500 your still not done yet, this is after spraying I'm talking about not just steel wool before hand, you then move on to 2000 grit wet sand, "home depot " doesn't carry such high grit so don't even go there I know for a fact, Walmart, r&s Strauss , possibly k-mart, places that carry automotive products like turtle, those are the places you will find such high grit, or simply google it and you'll have to pay shipping though, anyway, sometimes I go as high as 2,500, if they have it, you know I bought out all the high gloss poly and 1000 and up wet sand from my nearest Walmart and they haven't restocked in about 2 months, bastards, I keep telling them too, I guess I'm the only one that buys that kinda shot from them, otherwise someone else would've said something and they would have it already, I have drive out a few twins away to get this stuff now, anyway, it's funny, I'm spraying the neck this morning and am taking pics of that "0range peel bumpies " for you, I'm actually holding the neck out of the bathroom window after decaling it earlier, and finally, after atleast 1 full can of this repeat process, and after you 2000 wetsand, and male sure it's atleast 36 hours dry, than buff out the final microscopic swirls with turtle wax , follow those directions. ,and I use and recommend another , 2nd type of wax or paste that gives it a stunning glow and shine, not just a removel but a actual shine product , anyway gotta walk the dog he's starring at me, be back

teh matrix.

benecol wrote:teh matrix.

Actual laugh out loud. Girlfriend asks: what's so funny?
I explained Paul and the matrix.

Finally finished with this neck, I wets sanded it after the first can at 800 and 1000 grit sandpaper , and put the neck on the guitar along with the tuners and stringed it up to play to make sure all the frets are perfect height do there isn't any string/fret buzzing and everything sounds perfect, I mention earlier when I swapped out the pickguard I fixed some electrical mistakes that I thought might of caused the static shit sound it had when I first got it and plugged it in. , and I really only found out to If that was the cause and it was, 2 toggle switch wires that were too close to each other and touching slightly., so anyway, now it sounds clean, I'm impressed with the sound now that I don't have the reason mine wouldve been one of the thousands of "recalls", I actually am able to hear what this guitar sounds like and finally it's clean, not distorted like it was, and the neck is perfect and looks great, I still need to do the final polishing only on the frets but after I finished testing every fret out, I quickly took it all apart once again, and sprayed it down with the second can of polyurethane , this time using semi-gloss because like I said earlier, I really did buy out all wall marts polyurethane high gloss and they never restocked on it and I didn't have the time to go anywhere else for gloss because I had to take my dog to the vet today , 149 for that visit and 250 for tommorow morning to leave him there for a couple hours and they can extract 2 teeth, and there goes the money I was hoping to make off of all this crazy work and pain from my fingers and hands, I was hardly able to play to test the notes, but that's life, it's a good thing I already ordered the new neck for this guitar "Warmoirh strat CBS headstock with truss at the heel , oh yeah and that jag neck that if the tracking is correct , should be here by Monday the 9th, I must do that primarily and my neck on the side, because that's a custom order and has a time frame which I have to go by, but including shipping back and forth and the work plus trying to find the right day to spray outside now that it is freezing, 2 weeks to get it all done and back at his house, is reasonable, better than most places , anyway also I gotta restock on bindings and block material for my Warmoth neck and one scheduled for 2 weeks from now, another mex strat,

So anyway, haven't had time do do any picture uploads or what not, been non stop literally on this neck and was taking shots though during the last few stages, so I will be posting them probably tommorow to show the outcome of this Mascis jazzmaster neck which still is a Mascis original with a couple hundred put into it, plus if you think about it, how many hours non stop only to eat and smoke, since I got the guitar , literally , that's like 168 hours straight, that's nuts, and my fingers are so fucked and hurt, when that asshole post negative shit about my work and how it's bullshit, I think and my fingers for some reason and the talent it takes. And wonder? What the fuck do you do?, obviously has NO respect for this field of experience and passion for modifications whether it is the same type or something different, the amount of work it takes to do a job this big and ignorance it takes to look at the picture of a bound and blocked finished neck almost to perfection, <-( almost only because I don't want to put myself in danger of hereing it), anyway thinking a B&B neck just happens, or it's an project that someone dare say it's the garbage they made it sound like , I's completely disrespecting this field and has no reason to be here on this site if that's what he thinks, go talk junk about fucking bush or something with the guys on Strat talk, not make my pain& pleasure a joke, even fret a neck properly and I'll shut up, about your comment about my necks, just fret one, please, thanks, and bush uses jaguars, go to their site if you want to look at someone just holding a jaguar and not altering, if that's what you like, over here is about serious work, but fun the same time. And someone trying to knock 168 hours of work , that's not fun too me so please don't do it again, if it's not what you think it is, don't say anything, and it's obviously not what you think it is


Back to my neck and the people that have respect not only for me but the work, which I thought this site was about , the respect of guitar modifications, or let me correct myself, this forum, guitar projects, so I know I'm in the right. Forum, maybe there is somewhere on here where people are supposed to shoot each other down, like a comedy roast or something , I could be wrong , I'm so busy I haven't even seen exactly what are all the types of forum honestly,, my apologizes on that to the site, I want to one day, just one day go threw the whole site and tour , but until then I know this forum isn't that comedy roast form or thread, so atleast I didn't waist my time typing this




So , the neck is done, I have been taking shots for a few reasons, I have been thinking of the site while working and taking shots of things that might help others in that respect, and that's why when I have free time, I spend it uploading and typing. If I thought this was a joke id watch tv , so I hope it has been helping someone, I'll update in a couple hours after I drop my dog off Sunday morning


Shit, did it again , started around 630 am when just got up to smoke a cig while going to the restroom, and now gotta stay up and get ready for the vet drop off around 8 it's 735 where I am and time to go, I'll be back

Yeh, orange peel is normal. It's worst with spray cans, better with spray rigs. I never sand bare wood with 1000 grits, 220 or 320 is good enough. After I run my body blanks thru a jointer, I roughen the edges with 180, to make it more gritty... so the glue has something bite into. Too slick and it won't adhere as well.

Paulk, try a heat gun for those poly finish removal. If those finishes were nitrocellulose, then you could use paint stripper... poly is unphased by paint stripper.

I gotta read all these recent post..... long... lots of info, cool.

the neck is done, loaded and ready to go , once someone buys it, but here are some pics







got all that orange peel out