ShortScale.org

Maybe a mint guard to match your new sexy jazz?

Lightly sanded to smooth it some more. (I should have used more z-poxy. I didn't realize it would still be sucking paint in. LOL)


IMG_4915 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4916 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr

Coat number three.

IMG_4917 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4918 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr

once you wet sand it out, you should not see the sucking

Totally. One more can of black for today. Tomorrow it should get interesting.

First coat of metallic black applied.


IMG_4920 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4922 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4924 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4926 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr

Metallic coats of black done. Tomorrow I will start on the clear coats.


IMG_4937 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4938 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4938 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr

In Japan? Back yet? Give us more soon as ya can. Please. Gotta see this finished...

Tell me black with the tort pickguard? Yeah?

Cheers,

I am back. It will be metallic black with the red tort.

First coat of clear went on well. Making the metallic flakes stand out a bit more and also darkened it a bit also. Digging it.


IMG_4943 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4941 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4941 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4944 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr

looks fucking brill!

nice work brother.

Jim_Nowhere wrote:looks fucking brill! nice work brother.

Yeah, that's beautiful work, and yer pictures are really good. Thanks. It shows...it's darker now with the metal-flake poppin.

Cheers,

Thanks! Just two more cans of clear and then it will be curing time. The clear is helping the flakes pop a lot. I also like it better looking a bit darker. When it was just the color coat, it looked more grey which wasn't bad, but I was hoping for more metallic black than charcoal. I am going to order the last parts I need today so hopefully they arrive in time for me to assemble it.

Its this Poly or nitro paint?

I am using acrylic lacquer this time. I have used nitro in the past, but I always have to be careful about putting it on my stands or what strap I use on it and stuff. I would rather just be able to set it on anything without worrying about the finish melting.

One more coat to go! Then it is drying time.


IMG_4947 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4948 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr


IMG_4949 by Hentai No Baka, on Flickr

HNB wrote:I am using acrylic lacquer this time. I have used nitro in the past, but I always have to be careful about putting it on my stands or what strap I use on it and stuff. I would rather just be able to set it on anything without worrying about the finish melting.

Yeah.. About that

I was thinking about the green jag. Does your workbench have a rubber top on it? Nitro reacts to different plastics, rubbers, etc. Even some guitar straps can cause the finish to go liquid. I always keep my bodies on cloth and haven't had a problem with curing.

Nah. It was like that out of the package. It's just that paint. It melts with anything that touches it for too long.

Hmmm that is too strange.

Punkacc9 wrote:Nah. It was like that out of the package. It's just that paint. It melts with anything that touches it for too long.

Tell me about this finish. I'll bet it ain't ReRanch or Sea Grave (McFadden) nitrocellulose lacquer. If it is nitrocellulose lacquer, I'll bet it's Deft or Parks... or you mixed acrylic and nitrocellulose finishes.


I've had finishes that I've left to cure for a month. And left it sitting on a carpet covered bench and it melted... I used Parks nitro sealer - alcohol primer - acrylic color - Parks nitro clear.


I've had used Parks nitro sealer - Sea Grave (McFadden) nitro clear with pigments added for color - Sea Grave clear. 30 days wait.... buffed and left it on the bench overnight, it didn't react at all.


I've learned when you try to cut corners and or reinvent the wheel, shit hits the fan. I will only use Parks nitro sealer. 10 years ago ReRanch recommended BINS alcohol primer - it spits and runs, super thin and way to much pressure on the can. I found that when I would acidently ding the paint, it would always break at the primer... it didn't adhere. So now I use Parks nitro sealer with StewMac white pigment added to the mix to make a primer.


I only use ReRanch color or mix my own colors with StewMac color pigments... I mix the pigments into Sea Grave nitro clear. Primer gets mixed into sealer to save money.


Sea Grave is what all the Custom Shops use - Fender, Gibson, Taylor and etc. It's top shelf... same quality as ReRanch. I refuse to use Sea Grave vinyl sealer... it clogs my paper and doesn't turn to dust when you sand it. I only use Parks nitro sealer. It's milky in color, drys and sands great... love it to death. But I'm not sold on their clear and satin. I'll try it again in the future before I completely write it off.


Acrylic vs Nitro. Nitro yellows, checks and fades with age. Acrylic was the auto industry response to all of nitro problems. Even the best nitro finish may react if left for WAY to long. If I know I've got a sensitive finish, I wrap the hanger in flannel. And I never wrap a fresh finish in plastic. I wrap em in an ol' t-shirt if I'm shipping em. Haven't had a single complaint on a soft finish yet using my "trial and error" approach. Not all nitro is the same, you gotta experiment with different brands, different sealers/primer/color/clear/satin.