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so i bought a 25'5 Squier strat neck (with big headstock)

and i'm thinking building a Jazzblaster with it
I'll use my jaguar for the body tracing.
i'll order GFS wide range pickups
for the bridge, it will be easier for me to make it hardtail. Don't know if i put a strat bridge, or a stop bar and TOM like a HH jag.
the HH bridge has the advantage of taking more space on the body.
here's what it would look like :

the neck was modified by the previous owner to fit another body. So the heel was reduced.
I'll have to make the neck pocket shorter than my jag.

the key holes seem big to me. Wich type of key must I order from GFS to fit these holes?


thanks for your help and advices...

GFS Wide Range pickups are just humbucker sized. Only Fender make the real sized ones, and I'd recommend them to you for sure despite their price, because Telecaster Deluxes sound awesome.

As for the tuners, cou can get conversion bushings can't you? I have some of the vintage style Wilkinson tuners from GFS and they have massive bushings like that anyway.

Nice mockup. Love it.

get a musicmaster bridge from guitar parts resource. top load that shit ng

the Musicmaster bridge is a good idea... a nice piece of chrome


I know that GFS WideRange are regular humbucker sized.
But the price of genuine Fender ones is way too high.
and from what I read, GFS ones are quite good.

For the tuners, I need 10mm bushing, so the conversion bushing from GFS are what I need, thanks Malik!

DO MATCHING HEADSTOCK AND BLOCK INLAYS!!!!!

looks kool.

i will perhaps do the matching headstock
it depends on the colour I finally choose

but for the block inlays, when I see what you've done, it seems to be too much work for me...
and IMO block inlays look weird without binding.

wait, are going to take out some of the frets?............

robroe wrote:get a musicmaster bridge from guitar parts resource. top load that shit ng

aren't those things string through only? Last time i contacted them they were.

Sublimedo wrote:

robroe wrote:get a musicmaster bridge from guitar parts resource. top load that shit ng

aren't those things string through only? Last time i contacted them they were.

According to people on here, they're both top loaders.

robert(original) wrote:wait, are going to take out some of the frets?............

???

your mock up pic looks like its missing some frets, i was wondering if that was an idea you had or just something that happened to the photo in photoshop.

robert(original) wrote:your mock up pic looks like its missing some frets, i was wondering if that was an idea you had or just something that happened to the photo in photoshop.

It's a result of a the html resizing. If you click the picture it's fine.

bob wrote:It's a result of a the html resizing. If you click the picture it's fine.

yeah, that's it.

so I bought the wood today
it's from beech and made of 4 pieces.




I started the tracing :




almost done!!


I borrow a router this week end
so I hope it will progress quickly

make a proper a template out of mdf dude. it can be done freehand, but you will save yourself lots of problems if you get a template.

Hurb wrote:make a proper a template out of mdf dude. it can be done freehand, but you will save yourself lots of problems if you get a template.

yeah
that's what I plan to do
the tracing on the body was to give me an idea of the whole thing

ah kool, i though you would just wanted to make sure

good luck with it!

I have a GFS WRHP in the bridge position of my Barclay hollow body and it's an amazing pickup....I can't attest to how close it is to the original but it sounds great.....very quacky - a nice upper mids spike. Anyway, I reccomend them....especiallly for the price

things Aug has learned making bodies with poor man's tools:

1. MDF is shit. Use birch plywood. Or anything flat and strong enough.

2. Check, double-check, triple-check all measurements.

3. Make double damn sure your body's centerline matches the neck's centerline *perfectly*

4. Stock up on 40, 60, 80, 150 grit sandpaper to start.

5. Get a bastard file.

6. When routing, if you can't do it MANLAND style, do lots of small passes. Use router bits with guide bearings.

7. When you rough cut the shape of the body with a jigsaw, stay at least a 1/4" away from the final cut line, because jigsaw blades drift from one side to the other, and you may end up short.

8. Route slowly and make sure the bit is TIGHT in the router.

9. No matter how flat you think the body is, it's not flat enough.

10. Without a drill press, you are FUCKED when it comes time to drill the neck pocket screws.

I'm tired...more to come...